Bigdummy
Not a Nova
some nice pics
My Blown 340
- Thread starter blown340
- Start date
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fstfish66
Well-Known Member
thanks guys for all the nice comments,,,
love rowing gears,,,
i considered cragars,, but i would have to have a set widened,, and they are heavy,,,,,,i am looking at a company called ETIII they make a set of wheel like the orignal torque thusts,,not the ones on the market today,,
they make the straight spoke,,with the correct size rim i need,,,but very expensive,, like 2500...bucks for a set of 4 i was told from a guy that has a set,, and his price is a few years old,,,
HERE IS THE NAME OF THE GUY THAT BUILD DOWN FLOW RADIATORS,,HE HAS STUFF FOR MOPAR,,, AND I THINK VERY GOOD PRICES,,IF YOU PRICE A ALUMINUM RAD FROM WIZARDS,,,HE ADVERTISES IN MOPAR MAGAZINES,,HE QUOTED ME ALMOST 700.00 FOR A ALUMINUM RAD FOR AN A BODY 22 WIDE,,,THIS GUE WAS 445.00 WHEN I PRICED IT JUST A FEW MONTHS AGO,,
DAVE@RACEWARE 2880 bergey rd unit -E hatfield, PA 19440
[email protected] ( 877 ) 343-7273
love rowing gears,,,
i considered cragars,, but i would have to have a set widened,, and they are heavy,,,,,,i am looking at a company called ETIII they make a set of wheel like the orignal torque thusts,,not the ones on the market today,,
they make the straight spoke,,with the correct size rim i need,,,but very expensive,, like 2500...bucks for a set of 4 i was told from a guy that has a set,, and his price is a few years old,,,
HERE IS THE NAME OF THE GUY THAT BUILD DOWN FLOW RADIATORS,,HE HAS STUFF FOR MOPAR,,, AND I THINK VERY GOOD PRICES,,IF YOU PRICE A ALUMINUM RAD FROM WIZARDS,,,HE ADVERTISES IN MOPAR MAGAZINES,,HE QUOTED ME ALMOST 700.00 FOR A ALUMINUM RAD FOR AN A BODY 22 WIDE,,,THIS GUE WAS 445.00 WHEN I PRICED IT JUST A FEW MONTHS AGO,,
DAVE@RACEWARE 2880 bergey rd unit -E hatfield, PA 19440
[email protected] ( 877 ) 343-7273
Well I got to go to the PRI show for the last 3 days,I was like a kid in a candy store.
One of my stops was at the Weld Wheel/American Racing booth. First off they said they are going to be raising prices after the first of the year,so If I want to order new wheels I'd better get the ball rolling.
So these are the wheels I'm thinking of getting...American Torq-Thrust II
I can special order the rears in any offset from 3.75 to 7.0. Since I haven't cut up the housing yet I am thinking of 15x12 with 6" offset. I'll probably have to buy new axles also.Tell me what you think...stay with polished centerlines or these americans?
One of my stops was at the Weld Wheel/American Racing booth. First off they said they are going to be raising prices after the first of the year,so If I want to order new wheels I'd better get the ball rolling.
So these are the wheels I'm thinking of getting...American Torq-Thrust II
I can special order the rears in any offset from 3.75 to 7.0. Since I haven't cut up the housing yet I am thinking of 15x12 with 6" offset. I'll probably have to buy new axles also.Tell me what you think...stay with polished centerlines or these americans?
jjr426
Well-Known Member
personally i love the look of the centerlines on an a body but it is your car if you like the torq thrusts and can afford to get them you may want to go for it before the 1st of the year if you can save some money but if it were mine id keep the centerlines and spend the money elsewhere just my .02 Justin
dodgefreak8
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2007
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I have a blown 416 in the planning stage right now and this thread has been a big help!! thanks guys
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
BLOWN 340 those are the wheels im taslking about, only with the orignal spoke,, make sure you can get the excat off set you want from them before you cut the rear,,,,i went round and round with american,,a few years ago,,one rep would tell me sure any offset,, the other would tell me,, cant get them that wide,,so i gave up trying to deal with american,,im going to get the rims from ETIII when i gewt that far,,,15x15 zero off set
Well I made a little progress as today was the first day I could get over to the shop.
I last talked with Hampton my manifold was on it's way back over to the polisher,I was kinda hoping that it would be back so I could put it on this trip home....maybe next week it will be here.
I finally got all the pieces for my narrowing jig and got in the low tension hood springs. I am going to get a fiberglass hood and cut a hole in it and keep the stock hood as is for now.
Little surprise when I took the drivers side drum off. The cable for the self adjusters...is that right?..somehow ended up around the axle shaft. this housing as it sits measures 51 1/4 flange to flange. It has a dimension of 2.36 from the flange to the back of the axle and uses a non-adjustable with snap ring press on bearing
In the wilwood catalog they list a "green" bearing? Anyone know off the top of their head if this is that bearing.
I have the 3rd member draining before I take it out and I am still undecided about wheels. If I do this right I will have the wheels, leafs,housing,axles and possibly the 3rd member as spares for another project,If I do decide to change wheels and ratio. It has a 391 now so I am thinking 355 or 323.
But on the other hand I got a catalog from Gear Vendors on their under/overdrive unit,it would make it have like 6 gears forward instead of the 3 it has now.
I last talked with Hampton my manifold was on it's way back over to the polisher,I was kinda hoping that it would be back so I could put it on this trip home....maybe next week it will be here.
I finally got all the pieces for my narrowing jig and got in the low tension hood springs. I am going to get a fiberglass hood and cut a hole in it and keep the stock hood as is for now.
Little surprise when I took the drivers side drum off. The cable for the self adjusters...is that right?..somehow ended up around the axle shaft. this housing as it sits measures 51 1/4 flange to flange. It has a dimension of 2.36 from the flange to the back of the axle and uses a non-adjustable with snap ring press on bearing
In the wilwood catalog they list a "green" bearing? Anyone know off the top of their head if this is that bearing.
I have the 3rd member draining before I take it out and I am still undecided about wheels. If I do this right I will have the wheels, leafs,housing,axles and possibly the 3rd member as spares for another project,If I do decide to change wheels and ratio. It has a 391 now so I am thinking 355 or 323.
But on the other hand I got a catalog from Gear Vendors on their under/overdrive unit,it would make it have like 6 gears forward instead of the 3 it has now.
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
looks like the green bearngs i have,, just cant remember if the retainer plate is seperate like in your pic,,,,
Do you like them straight out or turned down. I hope to put my mufflers behind the rear tires and tucked up enough so you don't see them much.
Then I'm thinking a small turn down,but thats just my preference.
Did you put any x-over pipe in your system?
Then I'm thinking a small turn down,but thats just my preference.
Did you put any x-over pipe in your system?
I am not a fan of x-overs, plus with the blower I don't need any additional low end grunt an x-over might give me. As it stands I can remove either side without affecting the other side if a problem occurred.
these:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MPE%2D12619&N=700+0&autoview=sku
I have not started it yet - early next week she'll get started.
my goal was to get the exhaust sound to the back of the car and let the blower whine stay up front.
jeff
70Duster440
Well-Known Member
Love it! That thing is just nasty looking.
it's time for a little update.
we're almost finished with the major portions of work on my car.
fuel system is finished - we had to fabricate our own fuel pressure regulator mounting bracket because of the need for a return line when using an Aeromotive pump. I think it turned out pretty nice.
We ran a new fuel line inside the frame as much as possible from the rear - ran the return line inside the frame also for cleanliness.
we also made our own alternator bracket and relo'd he alternator down low to keep it out of the way of the lower radiator hose.
MSD box etc are all gone from the engine compartment and relo'd behind the firewall for a cleaner look.
I bought and tried a 69 Valiant Grill on the front of the car and painted it Flat Black - but it didn't look very good and it was 1/2' shorter in height so there was a gap between the top of the grill and the bottom of the hood - so it cam back off and I took the Sharkstooth grill, cleaned it, sanded it, primered it and painted it with a Metallic Silver and it turned out beautiful. I'll take some pics of it tonight. It really sets off the front of the car and looks great.
we're almost finished with the major portions of work on my car.
fuel system is finished - we had to fabricate our own fuel pressure regulator mounting bracket because of the need for a return line when using an Aeromotive pump. I think it turned out pretty nice.
We ran a new fuel line inside the frame as much as possible from the rear - ran the return line inside the frame also for cleanliness.
we also made our own alternator bracket and relo'd he alternator down low to keep it out of the way of the lower radiator hose.
MSD box etc are all gone from the engine compartment and relo'd behind the firewall for a cleaner look.
I bought and tried a 69 Valiant Grill on the front of the car and painted it Flat Black - but it didn't look very good and it was 1/2' shorter in height so there was a gap between the top of the grill and the bottom of the hood - so it cam back off and I took the Sharkstooth grill, cleaned it, sanded it, primered it and painted it with a Metallic Silver and it turned out beautiful. I'll take some pics of it tonight. It really sets off the front of the car and looks great.
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
what kind of fuel pressure do you have wit htta areo pump ?? what model did u use ?? i stil use a manual pump for regular srteet driving with a 180 gph holley pump at the tank if i get to banging some gears,,
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