I honestly don't know what the hubub is all about, it works out to be the same, except you have more idle timing. Plot it out in a curve both ways and you'll see.
My Combo, Manifold Or Ported VAC Advance, We'll See...
- Thread starter Mopar Sam
- Start date
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I think it was in the movie Hondo, John Wayne said something like " A long time ago I made me a rule, I let people do what they want to do."
I think I'm gonna let my motor do what it wants to do. I just have to do the work to find out what that is...
So I know there are differing opinions on this subject, and honestly I think everyone wants to help fellow members. But, sometimes I think old John Wayne was right.
There's not too much involved in moving a vac hose from one place to another, and testing.
I think I'm gonna let my motor do what it wants to do. I just have to do the work to find out what that is...
So I know there are differing opinions on this subject, and honestly I think everyone wants to help fellow members. But, sometimes I think old John Wayne was right.
There's not too much involved in moving a vac hose from one place to another, and testing.
I talked with your engine and it wants to be in Drag Truck. I suggest you give it what it wants.....
Oh no!!! I talked with Old Yeller, and he says the motor stays put.I talked with your engine and it wants to be in Drag Truck. I suggest you give it what it wants.....
Exactly, which has been my whole point. But, you MAY or may not need to readjust the base timing at the distributor. So keep in mind you'll want to check it with the light.
Ain’t that the truth. Kim"IF" i run a vacuum advance, I run ported. That's just me, and a sure bet is to do opposite of me
Well, I warmed the motor up good by idling a half an hour, then took a valve cover off to check lash on a couple of cylinders while hot. I had guessed at setting them cold at .012". The 2 exhausts I checked were right on at .022, the 2 intakes were a little loose. I set the intakes and now will know where to set them cold.
That doesn't have anything to do with timing other than making sure everything is right before I start.
That doesn't have anything to do with timing other than making sure everything is right before I start.
I talked with your engine and it wants to be in Drag Truck. I suggest you give it what it wants.....
by votes, looks like folks want that engine in Drag Truck. Not only that, I'm sure I'm entitled to it, just let me think of a reason.
Boy oh boy, did I ever walk into this one!!!
and the winner is .... ???? ......
and the winner is .... ???? ......
Big loser right now. As soon as I would hook manifold vac, it would start misfiring like crazy.
But if I left it unhooked, I could turn the distributor to advance and no misfire..
I took the distributor out and, I somehow put in the wrong one. Bushings loose as a goose. If I put vacuum to it and spun it, the reluctor made contact with the pickup.
I just now found the distributor that I thought I had put in. It has nice tight bushings.
I took it apart to clean and put a bit of lube on the bushings. I am going to set it up with an advance limiter screw in the morning.
Then I will try again.
We are cheering for ya.... you are really easy to cheer for, just so you know!!!
You're gonna have to reset the timing with the advance plugged into manifold vacuum. It probably had too much advance. You may need to back off the timing with MVA.
Yes, I am sure multiple ones were hitting.
I am not sure if mine will respond to MVA because of using a Lean Burn locked distributor.
I had it set at 34 degrees, and really the idle was pretty good, but I did not test if it wanted more. I really need to get a distributor that I can set up a curve in. I actually took 2 other distributors apart yesterday, but both have bent shafts. I was wanting to put a shaft with weights in the lean burn dist. housing that has the good bushings.
I figure the best I can do now is to play withe the rate and amount of advance I add. I need the can weak enough to not lose timing when I drop it in gear, but maybe not bringing the full amount in at idle.
Mine might be a case where ported vac is best because of the parts I am using.
Honestly, messing with this stuff is just for fun anyhow. The old truck was fun to drive with the old 318, so the 414 ought to be a little better.
Mine might be a case where ported vac is best because of the parts I am using.
Honestly, messing with this stuff is just for fun anyhow. The old truck was fun to drive with the old 318, so the 414 ought to be a little better.
Above [ post #43 ] is the last thing you want; trying to gauge the idle vacuum to pull the VA plunger far enough. That is a recipe for disaster, a rough varying idle that has a mind of it's own.
The correct procedure: you set the Allen Key in the VA so that the plunger pulls in firmly without a hint of movement [ timing is steady, stable ]. THEN, if you want to reduce the total amount of VA added, you need to make a stop to limit plunger travel. The guy below is across the pond from you Sam, but he 'gets' it.
This is called hot-rodding......
The correct procedure: you set the Allen Key in the VA so that the plunger pulls in firmly without a hint of movement [ timing is steady, stable ]. THEN, if you want to reduce the total amount of VA added, you need to make a stop to limit plunger travel. The guy below is across the pond from you Sam, but he 'gets' it.
This is called hot-rodding......
Fired it up today and let it get up to temp. I twisted the distributor with the vacuum advance disconnected. It really doesn't like much more than 36 at idle.(Although, I have not checked the rotor phasing yet, and I need to do that).
I set it back to 34 degrees. (I am using a lean burn distributor with no mechanical advance.) I will hook it up to ported for now, and do a little driving to see how it works out.
If my rotor phasing is off, I will revisit the manifold advance. Also, whenever I get a real distributor with a curve, I will go through it all again.
The fun continues..!!!
I set it back to 34 degrees. (I am using a lean burn distributor with no mechanical advance.) I will hook it up to ported for now, and do a little driving to see how it works out.
If my rotor phasing is off, I will revisit the manifold advance. Also, whenever I get a real distributor with a curve, I will go through it all again.
The fun continues..!!!
I believe you'll find it hard to start at 34 initial when it's hot. This is when manifold vacuum helps. There's zero vacuum advance until the engine is running so you can run say 16 or more initial and "the rest" comes in when the engine starts.
But let us know how it does.
Yes, I anticipated that, and put in a separate push button for the starter. I get it crankin, and then turn the key.
You can certainly do that!
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