My Dart Swinger Project!

-
Alright some more progress got the rear end squared up and welded I'm gonna let it cool and clean the welds really good and go back over it again if needed

20200322_155818.jpg


20200322_155916.jpg


20200322_155849.jpg


20200322_151446.jpg
 
I am working with a mopar guy in Brazil to make up shockplates that will work with the ford 8.8 in a mopar. You can take 3" shockplates and slot them but you still will run into an issue with the end of the plate. I have 2 pairs being manufactured and powdercoated. Will probably take 2 weeks to get here because of mail and customs. One pair is for my sons car. The other pair I will be selling on here.

You also need to get spring perches for a 3&1/8" axle tube. I got mine for $25 off evilbay I will only tack them in place to bolt the axle in to roll it around, but when all the weight is back in and the car is on level ground I will cut the tacks and adjust the down angle and weld them in for good.
 
Did you try a better quality wire Holbart etc?
 
74 DART' said:
Damn turned out really good. And everyone was hating on your harbor freight welder lol
Click to expand...
Thanks man I think it turned out pretty good considering. I got my backing plates took apart and started cleaning them up.

20200322_185116.jpg


20200322_185131.jpg


20200322_185119.jpg


20200322_185134.jpg
 
moparmat2000 said:
Looks great grasshopper. Your welds have improved a lot my son.
Click to expand...
Thanks matt I have been practicing alot. Ditching the cord really helped alot. I backed my truck right up against the house and set it up on the tailgate so I could weld without running a cord! I made four tack welds and then cleaned them with a wire wheel then welded them in quadrants. From one tac to the other, flipped it to the opposite side one tack to the other. Then the other 2 the same way.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Thanks bud I appreciate the tube cutter made life alot easier
Click to expand...
It does. But this time I went to start, sat there and studied on it for a bit. Then just hogged through it with my chop saw, LoL.
AND just chopped on either side of the spring perch, so no need to cut that off.
Way faster. Live and learn.
 
moparmandan said:
It does. But this time I went to start, sat there and studied on it for a bit. Then just hogged through it with my chop saw, LoL.
AND just chopped on either side of the spring perch, so no need to cut that off.
Way faster. Live and learn.
Click to expand...
I was gonna do it with a cut off wheel and after I learned about the pipe cutter figured that would be alot easier to keep it straight. I think it would be extremely hard to get it back perfect square using a grinder. I used a hand file and removed a little metal to get it perfectly squared but it was pretty darn close with the pipe cutter.
 
dartfreak75 said:
I was gonna do it with a cut off wheel and after I learned about the pipe cutter figured that would be alot easier to keep it straight. I think it would be extremely hard to get it back perfect square using a grinder. I used a hand file and removed a little metal to get it perfectly squared but it was pretty darn close with the pipe cutter.
Click to expand...
Well, my chop saw has always made nice square cuts, so I figured what the hell. Took a few to set it up, get everthing level and plumb. But between a grinder with cutoff wheel or the tube cutter, definitely tube cutter.
The jig, will true the tube anyways, whatever someone uses. Within reason........
 
The tube cutter was a workout for sure the chopsaw is probably the way to go lol
 
Glad to see you on the move again, saving another 75 dart.

My 75 dart is stopped in its tracks again because all the machine shops are closed and I can't get a crank polish done anywhere.


....... that plus I got sidetracked with a 74 duster lol
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
Glad to see you on the move again, saving another 75 dart.

My 75 dart is stopped in its tracks again because all the machine shops are closed and I can't get a crank polish done anywhere.


....... that plus I got sidetracked with a 74 duster lol
Click to expand...
Thanks it feels good to make some progress again its been a long winter lol. Let me see your duster.
 
A little more progress this morning. I got my 2nd short side axle pulled from my backup rearend. That housing is so much cleaner I wish I would have used it now but oh well I will have it just in case I ever need another one. I got my backing plates back on I gotta read back and figure out what to do with the ebrake cables I got the hooks out but cant get the cable out of the hole I was gonna cut it but I didnt want to just yet I gotta make sure I dont need that part. The Ebrake lever is extremely rusty and it was frozen up I broke it loose but it's still very gritty I'm hoping that's a part I can replace.

20200324_091833.jpg
 
Got some progress this morning. I got my upper control arm bushings pressed in. That was a pain in the ***! I'm having trouble with the pressed in washers it took me forever to get them in now my bolts wont go thru the washers. So I think I'm gonna ditch them and use regular washers.
Got feed up dealing with that so I painted my rearend looks pretty good I did the housing matte black and in gonna do the cover gloss black.

20200327_101109.jpg


20200327_101102.jpg
 
Housing looks good. Here is what I am using on both cars for upper and lower control arms. You heat and melt the rubber out, and leave the pressed in outer shell intact on the arm, and just grease and press in the poly bushing and sleeve. The stock LCA inner bushing stays on the pin, the original pressed outer sleeve stays on the arm. Heat old bushing with a torch to remove, Grease and install new insert. I did these types of bushings on my 94 Silverado in the front upper and lower A arms, and on rear leaf spring eyes at 50K truck has about 160K on it now. Works great.

Screenshot_20200327-145708_eBay.jpg
 
moparmat2000 said:
Housing looks good. Here is what I am using on both cars for upper and lower control arms. You heat and melt the rubber out, and leave the pressed in outer shell intact on the arm, and just grease and press in the poly bushing and sleeve. The stock LCA inner bushing stays on the pin, the original pressed outer sleeve stays on the arm. Heat old bushing with a torch to remove, Grease and install new insert. I did these types of bushings on my 94 Silverado in the front upper and lower A arms, and on rear leaf spring eyes at 50K truck has about 160K on it now. Works great.

View attachment 1715494942
Click to expand...
Man that looks like it would have been alot easier lol iv already got the old ones pressed out and the new moog pressed in. I'm just having trouble with the caps or washers whatever there called
 
dartfreak75 said:
Got some progress this morning. I got my upper control arm bushings pressed in. That was a pain in the ***! I'm having trouble with the pressed in washers it took me forever to get them in now my bolts wont go thru the washers. So I think I'm gonna ditch them and use regular washers.
Got feed up dealing with that so I painted my rearend looks pretty good I did the housing matte black and in gonna do the cover gloss black.

View attachment 1715494783

View attachment 1715494784
Click to expand...
When your grinding off that nice paint to weld on the spring perches don't forget to weld on some tabs to mount the factory brake line if that's what you are going to use. :poke:
Like this:
20200329_191858.jpg
20200329_191912.jpg
20200329_192004.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top