My Dart Swinger Project!

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I know it's like where does the cheap insurance stop or start though? It's almost like you could say that at every step. Like it would be cheap insurance to prep the block properly instead of just honing it and trying to put bearings in yourself and get it clean enough to take paint and get all the oil galleys and water jackets all clean properly. do you have the crank turned or do you just slap me bearings in there? It would be cheap insurance to have it turned and get oversize bearings? It's like you got to take it all apart and make your decisions where you want to have cheap insurance or where you don't? I always like to put my insurance into the bottom end. Then again all it takes is one part in the top-end to fall asleep LOL and there goes your bottom end! LOL
Yea you are right there. I do wish I had more money to put into it iv already put alot more in it than I had planned it was supposed to get cleaned painted new cam and lifters and go in the car without even disassembling it but I decided to port the heads to try and get some more power and found all sorts of issues when I pulled the heads off. Good thing I did tho I'm sure it wouldn't have lasted long the way those valves look among other things. If I had the money i would take it to the machine shop and have it punched out .03 turn the crank align honed and have a set of kb167 pistons fitted and balanced. But I just dont have the funds.
 
Head #2 Is disassembled and cleaned up time for porting. I am gonna go give the block a little attention I will update on how that goes. This one was no where near as gummed up. The valves other than two where not bad at all. What would cause one side to be so much worse than the other?

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For how cheap they are I'd replace all the valves, not just the exhaust's. Even cheap standard replacement valves are better than old well used ones, it's cheap insurance.
Neil.
i'd replace at least the exhaust. If the valves don't seal, you might as well not even bolt a 4bbl on or install any aftermarket cam. Valves don't seal, you have a gas-guzzling, low performing, hunk of iron
 
i'd replace at least the exhaust. If the valves don't seal, you might as well not even bolt a 4bbl on or install any aftermarket cam. Valves don't seal, you have a gas-guzzling, low performing, hunk of iron
Ok I will probably go ahead and do that. The engine tech ones are cheap like 15 bucks for the set.
I got a little done the the block this morning as well the old cam bearings are out! Thank God I listened to yall and bought the tool. That would suck without it!!

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Heck I looked up valves on rock auto i think I'm just gonna buy new for both for the set one is 24 the other is 18. That's worth it to me not to have to clean them. My time is valuable Haha. Are these the right ones @318willrun ? Do you think they will be ok ? They are

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Well I got some bad news! Its gonna be a budget killer and I got some big decisions to make. Some of you know I had some rust in my bores when I took the heads off. Well this morning I attempted to clean them out and hone them and all but one came out pretty nice but this one I just dont know. I'm not pro this is my first rodeo this deep into one but I dont think this one is gonna fly! Hopefully some of you budget pros will chime in with your thoughts @318willrun and @RustyRatRod @rumblefish360 @nm9stheham @j par. You guys have been my engine building gurus so far. What yall think?
I pretty much know what ya gonna say tho lol

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Ouch! Not looking good there kiddo.
Time for a machinist to take it out to the next level.
 
Ouch! Not looking good there kiddo.
Time for a machinist to take it out to the next level.
:(
Yea that's what I was thinking too. Damnit man. I have a few options all of them are gonna cost. I could.
A) scrap the entire 318 project and go straight for the 360. Its needs bored too so the machining cost is gonna be there regardless.
B) find another 318 core cheap ( maybe even a magnum) but that's risky because who knows it could need machining as well
Or
C) sell the 360 and go all out with the 318.
 
D; Build the 360. Bore and bone as needed to slide in new slugs. I recommend ether the KB-107’s or the Federal-Mougal “116” hyper slugs set at a zero deck height. These can be purchased through Summit Racing with the rings cheaper than ordering separate. These are in the wife’s ride.

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D; Build the 360. Bore and bone as needed to slide in new slugs. I recommend ether the KB-107’s or the Federal-Mougal “116” hyper slugs set at a zero deck height. These can be purchased through Summit Racing with the rings cheaper than ordering separate. These are in the wife’s ride.

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I think we covered this a while back but I can't remember. With those pistons would my engine need to be rebalanced? Or could have the machine shop punch out the block and do the rest myself? (Save in labor cost)
 
:(
Yea that's what I was thinking too. Damnit man. I have a few options all of them are gonna cost. I could.
A) scrap the entire 318 project and go straight for the 360. Its needs bored too so the machining cost is gonna be there regardless.
B) find another 318 core cheap ( maybe even a magnum) but that's risky because who knows it could need machining as well
Or
C) sell the 360 and go all out with the 318.

360. Buy a 4.0" crank for it while your at it :)
 
360. Buy a 4.0" crank for it while your at it :)
**** bro I ain't buying nothing for a while after this Haha.
I got a number for a local machine shop I'm gonna give them a call. And see what the damage is gonna be. I know its gonna set me back big time tho. It may be another year of saving before I can even get started on it. I'm so disappointed I was really hoping to have it running before spring. I may take @Dicer advice and just but one that is running to put in it now. Or
E) put this damn engine back together as is and see how long she lasts!! Hahaha I have a used 360 2bbl cam and a set of gaskets eff it? Haha
 
Nothing wrong with going forward with what you have, but it might make more sense to sell all that you have. To bore, hone, and assemble, you'll be way over the amount it cost to buy a good running motor - that you heard run yourself, not one that they say ran good. Or, a Good running 318/360 magnum can be had for 350 bucks from a reputable salvage yard.
 
If I ever find a crazy price on an intake manifold for a Magnum swap I would be tempted to do that I've been wanting too.
 
You can still do a budget build, your budget just got bigger is all. I've run some nasty stuff, but I wouldn't run that cylinder.
 
If I ever find a crazy price on an intake manifold for a Magnum swap I would be tempted to do that I've been wanting too.
lol... I keep say'n i'm going to do it. I have the air gap intake, I have stock cams with the mechanical fuel pump snout, I have remanufactured heads still in the boxes, I have a "supposingly" good running 318 magnum (and I don't doubt it) on the stand from a '94 Dakota, and there it all is, …… :) yep, there it all is...……..
 
I would just do it with a 360 though no sense in leaving all that on the table at the same price.
 
I think the vote is in... Magnum swap! LOL$200 for a manifold and 350 for the motor and $50 for the electric fuel pump. I hope you had about 600 in the budget LOL
 
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