Just as I mentioned in the video, gasket match it to the 318 gasket (looks like you did). It's the tin ones in the kit. 360 gaskets will have you hog to the point of almost ruining your heads.
my Low dollar 318 hop-up project
- Thread starter 318willrun
- Start date
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Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
going wider to the line is worthless due to the pushrod hump. grind the humps down a little and raise the ports, grind intake manifold to match, or slightly smaller. edit-this info is for those running a 318 size intake
I like to go a little wider (using the 318 gasket to match) because it dulls the flat edge (wall) the air smacks into at high velocity. A "round" corner is less restrictive than a flat wall, but to each their own.... Intake for both MrJLR and myself have the bigger 340/360 size ports, so I recommend leaving the intake alone.
Ok, the motor is assembled. I will install the first chance I get, however, at the present I'm "sort of" working outside, so the weather is a factor, and they are predicting rain for the next few days.. 
I think I will use textured flat black (bed liner?) on the valve covers.
I did put a new rear main seal and a few freeze plugs in it just because it was on the stand. I did not count that (or the paint) as part of the cost because it wasn't necessary, and this build is based off of doing this project "in the car". My car has a slant right now, so that's why my motor is on the stand, however, as I stated, the build is about the 318, not the installation. I will give updates, but not details on the installation. I want to focus on the teen.
I think I will use textured flat black (bed liner?) on the valve covers.
I did put a new rear main seal and a few freeze plugs in it just because it was on the stand. I did not count that (or the paint) as part of the cost because it wasn't necessary, and this build is based off of doing this project "in the car". My car has a slant right now, so that's why my motor is on the stand, however, as I stated, the build is about the 318, not the installation. I will give updates, but not details on the installation. I want to focus on the teen.
Some reason these didn't upload in the above post
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That looks awesome!
AND.....you stayed under $499!!!!!!
Jeff
AND.....you stayed under $499!!!!!!
Jeff
Thanks, Jeff. This motor was so gunky, it was terrible. A messy, pressure washer/drill and wire brush to get it paintable. I stayed under 499 including carb!!!! If you want to count the paint, it was like 12 bucks for primer and paint and then a couple of freeze plugs. The rear main seal and oil pan gasket was included in the kit
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Ok, the motor is assembled. I will install the first chance I get, however, at the present I'm "sort of" working outside, so the weather is a factor, and they are predicting rain for the next few days..
I think I will use textured flat black (bed liner?) on the valve covers.
I did put a new rear main seal and a few freeze plugs in it just because it was on the stand. I did not count that (or the paint) as part of the cost because it wasn't necessary, and this build is based off of doing this project "in the car". My car has a slant right now, so that's why my motor is on the stand, however, as I stated, the build is about the 318, not the installation. I will give updates, but not details on the installation. I want to focus on the teen.
Valve cover aren't in my budget either...
It had rusted out nasty chrome covers so I painted them with black "wrinkle" paint....I like the results.
Before
After
mguner
How many is too many?
Ready to hear it!
Out with the old, in with the new....... :cheers:
mguner
How many is too many?
That's not right! Where's the ATF puddle? :burnout:
Woohoo!
Duece
Duece
This thread is solid gold! Thanks for doing this 318willrun, tons of great info in here
I won $800 from a hockey pool so I am shopping right now for my 318. Found a 318/727 out of a 91 d150 for $200 (its TBI but was going to swap to carb so needed an intake/carb and a few other little things anyway) so I will be following this very closely. Can't wait to get the heads off and start working on them, something I have always been too scared to try
One question I have, are you concerned about the 7 1/4" rear? Almost everything I read on this site says to avoid them like the plague and that the rear end/ disc brake swap should be priority if swapping to V8/ more HP. I know this thread is strictly about the 318 but just curious what your plans were
I won $800 from a hockey pool so I am shopping right now for my 318. Found a 318/727 out of a 91 d150 for $200 (its TBI but was going to swap to carb so needed an intake/carb and a few other little things anyway) so I will be following this very closely. Can't wait to get the heads off and start working on them, something I have always been too scared to try
One question I have, are you concerned about the 7 1/4" rear? Almost everything I read on this site says to avoid them like the plague and that the rear end/ disc brake swap should be priority if swapping to V8/ more HP. I know this thread is strictly about the 318 but just curious what your plans were
Thanks, Duece! It's the very reason why I did it .
The 7 1/4 rear certainly was not built with performance in mind from Mother Mopar. However, I have given them some abuse over the years and never had one fail. That being said, I wouldn't put slicks and a 3800 stall with it... LOL. Spinning ain't winning, but it will save the lil' rear end for a bit. I do have a B-body 8 3/4 I can put in if I should happen to have the worst, which would be my 1st.
Honestly, with it being a 1 - legger, tall gears and factory converter, I doubt I'll be able to do better than a 2.20's 60 ft. But I can run my numbers with that 60 ft. time.
. The 7 1/4 rear certainly was not built with performance in mind from Mother Mopar. However, I have given them some abuse over the years and never had one fail. That being said, I wouldn't put slicks and a 3800 stall with it... LOL. Spinning ain't winning, but it will save the lil' rear end for a bit. I do have a B-body 8 3/4 I can put in if I should happen to have the worst, which would be my 1st.
Honestly, with it being a 1 - legger, tall gears and factory converter, I doubt I'll be able to do better than a 2.20's 60 ft. But I can run my numbers with that 60 ft. time.
needsaresto
Well-Known Member
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I agree with your assesment of the 7 1/4. I guess your luckier than my friends,whose 7 1/4 broke while sitting on a rail x ing.We managed to push it off the crossing before anything bad happened but oh boy,talk about scary...
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
Those TBI motors are pre-magnum roller motors (roller lifters/cam stock) and had more compression than most LA 318's too (supposedly) - will make a great base for a performance 318!
I am sure the pictures will be up shortly, but I assume the engine is in now. Congrats.
Awesome sauce,time for the fun!
Ok, with this thread reaching 19 pages, I thought I would bunch up some of the build so folks don't have to sort through 19 pages, and besides, pictures are gone. The build starts with the first two post of this thread. Please read the 1st two post of this thread, then below will be the build with post reference.
From post 29 - the intake is 1973 340/360 factory cast iron 60.00 delivered.
From post 41 & 42 - home porting heads
Part 1 -
Part 2 -
and the finished heads -
From post 29 - the intake is 1973 340/360 factory cast iron 60.00 delivered.
From post 41 & 42 - home porting heads
Part 1 -
Part 2 -
and the finished heads -
And some lapping of the valves..... bringing 30.00 dollars into porting and lapping
From post 111 -
Complete engine gasket kit from Summit Fel pro KS fel-2114 - 58.00 dollars
Edelbrock valve springs from Summit EDL5877 - 48.00 dollars
From post 162 - Summit cam kit K50052 - 110.00 dollars
Don't know what post, but I put the summit double roller timing chain set in it for 39.00 dollars, and new Sealed Power exhaust valves for 56.00 dollars
Complete engine gasket kit from Summit Fel pro KS fel-2114 - 58.00 dollars
Edelbrock valve springs from Summit EDL5877 - 48.00 dollars
From post 162 - Summit cam kit K50052 - 110.00 dollars
Don't know what post, but I put the summit double roller timing chain set in it for 39.00 dollars, and new Sealed Power exhaust valves for 56.00 dollars
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Carburetor - 600 eddy from ebay - 85.00 bucks shipped
Post 250 will give a total of 491.00 spent, then I plugged the smog holes on the exhaust ports with 1/4 inch set screws... 2.50
A picture of the engine.... paint not included in cost because it wasn't necessary to build this..
A picture of the engine.... paint not included in cost because it wasn't necessary to build this..
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and a picture of the slant pulled..... remember, this thread was about the 318, assuming one has a 318 in their car and dual exhaust. This is not about the installment.
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