My rusty cowl repair so far...

-
weaverjsnw

weaverjsnw

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2012
Messages
121
Reaction score
25
Location
Medford, OR
I've seen how this is usually done by removing the windshield and front fenders. Then drilling out 150 or so spot welds separating the upper and lower halves. What a pain in the *** that must be. I decided to try something else that so far seems to be working out. I made some cuts on the upper half under the hood opening the areas over the stove hats. Mine were pretty rusted out and caused both floor pans to rust out also. I'm trying my best to stop any further damage. I've pretty much taken care of any rusty areas by removing what I can with an abrasive head on a drill and then using a vinegar and water mix to neutralize the rust. Then give it a good coat of rustoleum rust reformer. If the metal is too thin then I just cut it out. So far I've only had to cut the rear quarter panels. I have sheet metal from old appliances to replace the cut outs. I'll have to do both floor pans too. But have to take care of the source of the problem first. My plan for the cowl area is to replace the stove hats with metal coffee cans after treating the rust of course. They are the same diameter. Make sure everything gets sealed up and painted then tackle the floor. My car will be in pretty good shape then. At least the rust won't be doing more damage. I'm glad I'm doing this now intsead of waiting. Another few years like it was and there probably wouldn't be much of a car left. Anyway here are some pics. Tell me what you think.

View attachment 2014-06-08_10-27-46_843.jpg

View attachment 2014-06-08_10-32-06_631.jpg

View attachment 2015-05-09_19-34-50_345.jpg

View attachment 2015-05-09_20-33-00_300.jpg
 
Interesting way to attack that issue. Keep it updated i am curious how it works out for you. Seems a pretty straight forward approach though.
 
Rusty cowls.
Ticking time bombs.
I'm doing one. The bottom was caught in time.
But I putting a new top on because it was cheesy anyway.
For the remaining rust, I'd suggest Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer.
What are you thinking to use?
 
Ticking time bomb is right. The deeper you go, the farther you have to. Just got through a repair on mine.
 
Looks like a lot of trouble to avoid doing it right. I hope it works out for you. Moreover, I hope you keep the car forever so that the next guy won't have a huge issue on his hands. Good luck.
 
I realize it isn't the way the professionals would do it. My goal is to at least stop things from getting worse. It is already a problem the floor pans are gone because of it. I would like to get the car back on tje road sometime soon. I've barely been able to drive it for the past year. Luckily the bottom pan is solid. I'll probably go with fiberglass instead of coffee cans. Then waterproof with rubber seal. I've got roof tar too. The key is to keep the water flowing out the drain holes. I will be replacing the windsheild eventually. I may do it the right way then depending on how it holds up. I'll keep updating my progress.
 
adriver said:
Rusty cowls.
Ticking time bombs.
I'm doing one. The bottom was caught in time.
But I putting a new top on because it was cheesy anyway.
For the remaining rust, I'd suggest Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer.
What are you thinking to use?
Click to expand...

I'm using rustoleum rust reformer. I really like this stuff it coverts the rust and leaves a durable black primer finish ready to be painted over.
 
Ok here are the pics of my cowl repair for now. I decided to deal with my rust issues while waiting for parts. I'm glad I did. It was starting to get bad in some areas. The car sat under a tree for years. The cowl leaked and the moisture was trapped inside. Everything metal had rust on it. So I've tried to stop the damage from getting worse by removing what I could and neutralizing with vinegar and water. Then add a good coat of rustoleum rust reformer. In the cowl I replaced the metal rings with plastic from $.98 planters from walmart (6" size cut 2 1/2" down from the top secured and sealed with spray on rubber seal) So far so good. At least until I replace the windshield. I have replacement metal in the floorpans, nothing welded yet. Still have rear quarters and inside bottom trunk lid. It's getting there... still a work in progress...

:blob:Finally back on the road after about a year of dealing with everything that could go wrong did. Some of my own stupidity but I have learned a lot mostly from this website. Here's what I've done: engine rebuild, new torque converter (twice), new tranny cooler lines anfd fuel line, distributer, fuel pump, battery, and then the balancer decides to go out. Just got it replaced about a week ago. Been driving it about three days now. I am very pleased:blob: to say the least! I may take it to the medford cruise....
 

Attachments

  • 2015-05-30_18-38-22_679.jpg
    41.5 KB · Views: 471
  • 2015-05-30_18-20-32_150.jpg
    25.6 KB · Views: 463
  • 2015-05-30_18-20-13_492.jpg
    25.2 KB · Views: 461
  • 2015-05-11_13-20-43_950.jpg
    26 KB · Views: 422
  • 2015-05-11_12-49-16_245.jpg
    29.1 KB · Views: 475
  • 2015-06-06_18-32-26_134.jpg
    50.5 KB · Views: 451
Just an update... It's been a couple years since I did this and so far no major leaks and it appears the rust is not getting worse. Still putting the new windshield off for now. I expect to need to repair this the right way eventually. For now at least it works. My car is slowly coming along. Replaced both rear lower quarters with patches of new sheet metal. Turned out pretty nice actually. Not perfect but much better than it was.
 
Just hired a guy this afternoon to remove the top portion of my cowl on the '65 Formula S I am trying to get sandblasted and painted. Waiting for a call from him when the top of the cowl gets popped off, so I can run over to the shop and take some fotos. I feel relieved that I took the plunge to "restore" the cowl area to whatever degree is necessary, but at the same time I also feel a little unnerved, like having had a surgeon put me under the knife.
 
Another update still holding up after 8 years. Starting to notice some small rust bubbles in my rear wheel arches. I guess I better get on it and see how bad it is. Maybe I can repair it without having to order patch panels....
 
weaverjsnw said:
Another update still holding up after 8 years. Starting to notice some small rust bubbles in my rear wheel arches. I guess I better get on it and see how bad it is. Maybe I can repair it without having to order patch panels....
Click to expand...

Its always about 100x worse on the inside from what you see on the outside unfortunately
 
Yes that is true. I still have a ways to go. Not gonna let the rust take it on my watch. Eventually it will be not as long as I can help it
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top