Dartsun
Mopar Dude
I’d go half’s on a box with you Bill I need some for my 65 GT. Dustin
My second 1965 Dodge Dart.
- Thread starter Bills65Dart
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No I don’t sorry. I need them for other 65 that I am building.Yes, they are in a moderate to low condition.I have searched the net all over, no luck in finding the right ones. Did you want to sell those you have left, and how many do you have ?
Oh, sorry, just a tiny little misunderstanding then. All is good.
My car takes 22 fasteners since I want all of them new, so 50 is enough for two cars. 8 holes in the hood, 14 for the candy canes. That is at least how my Detroit built car is. Now, I need Pal nuts and some other nuts, and I have not yet established the source for that. In addition I am not sure what to do with the rest when I am done with my car. One option is to sell to you, the other option is to keep them in case I stumble upon a ruby red station wagon restoration project and decide to buy it.
I have to get back to you on that, and it will take some time to find a source for the nuts too.
Bill
For those who wonder why there is no progress. We have had a major wildfire just north of us for a week now so I have been occupied in my mind and worried to death that our home could go up in flames. It seems to be over the worst now, and the evacuation orders was lifted just a little while ago now this afternoon. So, life will slowly get back to normal again.
On Monday I cut a new rubber gasket for the fuel cap on the Dart. I should have had a tool that could cut it perfectly round on the outside, and also the hole in the middle. I did not have anything else than a side cutter and a pair of scissors. The rubber I am using is a nitrile rubber that is 1/16" thick, a little thicker than original. Now, the old gasket was very brittle and hard, so I wonder if it could have shrunk some and was thicker originally. Anyway, the new seal seem to work excellent.
I also lifted up the left rear wheel to see if the brake was adjusted to tight like all the other 3 wheel was. But, it was not. I will at some point add self adjusters on all the wheels so I don't have to mess with the manual adjusting anymore.
On Monday I cut a new rubber gasket for the fuel cap on the Dart. I should have had a tool that could cut it perfectly round on the outside, and also the hole in the middle. I did not have anything else than a side cutter and a pair of scissors. The rubber I am using is a nitrile rubber that is 1/16" thick, a little thicker than original. Now, the old gasket was very brittle and hard, so I wonder if it could have shrunk some and was thicker originally. Anyway, the new seal seem to work excellent.
I also lifted up the left rear wheel to see if the brake was adjusted to tight like all the other 3 wheel was. But, it was not. I will at some point add self adjusters on all the wheels so I don't have to mess with the manual adjusting anymore.
Here is a horn ring I bought on ebay. It is not too bad, I can live with the little pitting it has, just polish it and be satisfied with that. But, the ring on the horn ring is bent on the piece that has the longest distance between the spokes and therefore support.
How shall I go about straighten it, if possible ?
How shall I go about straighten it, if possible ?
Unconventional
Well-Known Member
Primitive but I think Bill had the same idea with the real part
Unconventional
Well-Known Member
The horn ring is a cast unit no doubt.
Now I have straightened it, and it looks much better. I have still not polished it, I have nothing to use for that. But I am satisfied with the outcome and think I will let if be as it is. It is not 100%, but I will see how it looks on the car before I do anything more sophisticated with it.
Looks good to me
Thank you. I used my Lappish/Sami boy wisdom, and my Viking strength. So I bent it with my hands supporting it on the table. I don't know if that was the right way, it was not at all scientific. I felt more like an artist.
Today I took a picture of my head light switches. Well, the left one with part number and date code was one I bought on ebay to get the switch knob, and it appeared to be a windshield wiper switch knob instead. The switch to the right, which says MO PAR was the one sitting in the car. The reostat wire on that one is totally gone, so I replaced it with a switch from Standard. So, that is what sits in the car now.
What I wonder about is the MO PAR switch that was sitting in the car when I bought it, is that really a genuine MoPar switch, or some hubba bubba aftermarket cheating low life switch ?
The date code on the one with a date code is too late for my car's production date which is December 30, 1964. But that is a whole different matter since I am not trying to get my car back to assembly line condition.
Bill
What I wonder about is the MO PAR switch that was sitting in the car when I bought it, is that really a genuine MoPar switch, or some hubba bubba aftermarket cheating low life switch ?
The date code on the one with a date code is too late for my car's production date which is December 30, 1964. But that is a whole different matter since I am not trying to get my car back to assembly line condition.
Bill
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Went to Dave's Auto Parts and got a little bottle of Chrome Polish from Turtle Wax, and polished the horn ring. I am a novice at this but thought I got an ok result. Not so easy to polish over pitting. It is what it is, and I have to live with it for now. Not going to have it drilled and soldered and rechromed at this point.
Mine is worse. Way worse.
The way I straightened the horn ring was perhaps a little risky I assume some will think. But I turned it upside down and placed it so where the spoke goes over in the ring was a little inside the edge of the table. Then I pushed down on the ring and released it, sort of to feel the strength of it. I moved the entire ring back in on the table to see if I had moved it at all, which I had not, then I moved it back on the edge, and tried a little harder. I took a hold of the ring a few inches from the spoke, and then in the middle, and then I placed the other spoke on the edge of the table and did the same. And used the same force.
That way it came a little by little, and finally I was satisfied with it. At least for now.
That way it came a little by little, and finally I was satisfied with it. At least for now.
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When I bought my first 1965 Dodge Dart station wagon in 1981 it said in the registration papers that it was registered in 1966 in the similar to DMV here. I had never seen a Dart from those years, and the guy who sold it to me said it was a 1966 Dodge Dart.
So, I found a guy in a magazine who advertised and sold sales brochures, so I ordered a 1966 Dodge Dart sales brochure. And if you look at the link below, that is what I got. So, the picture of the woman where it says, Join the Dodge Rebellion, and the right headlamp of the car. That is what I saw first, I mean, the brochure was closed so this is what I saw when I opened the envelope. And right away it puzzled me that the right fender was a little squared in the corners.
My car was not like that I thought, so I opened the brochure, and saw that this was not my car. Many other things was similar, but I did not have a 1966 Dodge Dart. I had no idea what year I actually had, until I bought Chiltons very thick Green Shop Manual, I think it went up to 1971 or something. For each car it was a picture of the front, and for the first time I figured out I had a 1965 Dodge Dart. Very important when ordering parts.
MotorCities - The 1966 Dodge Dart Models Were Seeking Rebel Drivers | 2016 | Story of the Week
So, I found a guy in a magazine who advertised and sold sales brochures, so I ordered a 1966 Dodge Dart sales brochure. And if you look at the link below, that is what I got. So, the picture of the woman where it says, Join the Dodge Rebellion, and the right headlamp of the car. That is what I saw first, I mean, the brochure was closed so this is what I saw when I opened the envelope. And right away it puzzled me that the right fender was a little squared in the corners.
My car was not like that I thought, so I opened the brochure, and saw that this was not my car. Many other things was similar, but I did not have a 1966 Dodge Dart. I had no idea what year I actually had, until I bought Chiltons very thick Green Shop Manual, I think it went up to 1971 or something. For each car it was a picture of the front, and for the first time I figured out I had a 1965 Dodge Dart. Very important when ordering parts.
MotorCities - The 1966 Dodge Dart Models Were Seeking Rebel Drivers | 2016 | Story of the Week
I realize that me and sanding / painting is not the best combination. I don't see what I am doing when sanding. I don't see how it looks like. Not until I have painted. Then I see all the mistakes. So, I sanded the steering wheel again, but this time I painted it so it is what it is. It is much better than the cracked thing I brought home, but the finish is sub par. But as long as I don't see what I am doing, it is not much I can do about it.
One thing I really struggled with is that the epoxy is totally clear. So, when I got epoxy on the steering wheel I see all the imperfections in the original resin in it. But, I do not see the imperfections in the surface of the epoxy.
Does anyone know if there is any black pigment to mix in Epoxy so the old surface disappear and I only see the top surface ?
I will post pics when the steering wheel is dry enough to take off the copper pipe.
Bill
One thing I really struggled with is that the epoxy is totally clear. So, when I got epoxy on the steering wheel I see all the imperfections in the original resin in it. But, I do not see the imperfections in the surface of the epoxy.
Does anyone know if there is any black pigment to mix in Epoxy so the old surface disappear and I only see the top surface ?
I will post pics when the steering wheel is dry enough to take off the copper pipe.
Bill
zkx14
Duster De-ruster
When doing bodywork you do this by lightly spraying with a different color and sanding it off leaving paint in the low areas
I see, thank you for that tip. I am rather clueless when it comes to bodywork. But June approved of it, and she asked what kind of steering wheel was in it now, and I said a 13.5 inch GT steering wheel. Oh I hate those she said, I like the big steering wheels. So I told my wife she was my kind of woman.
Bill
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Well, today I opened the hood to look at the alternator. Not paid much attention to it. Other than it was supposed to be a new one. Well, I guess that means remanufactured. The seller called it new. Anyway, it is a square back, and not the right alternator for my car in that sense. Would have looked better with a round back. Not sure I want to buy a remanufactured roundback, maybe I would like to find an old and dirty one and restore it myself. It is something special with the things I restore myself. So, if anyone has a good repairable core with the right date code, in other words late 1964 up to Christmas, then you might have a buyer for it.
Bill
Bill
Does anyone know the offset or part number on a stock rim for a 1965 Dodge Dart 4d sedan, 225 and automatic transmission ? 13"x4.5", 4 inch hole circle.
Bill
Oh, I found it. It is a J rim for all Darts in 1965. Was in my shop manual. My parts manual has the entire section 22 missing.
The shop manual did not say anything about the part number though.
Bill
Oh, I found it. It is a J rim for all Darts in 1965. Was in my shop manual. My parts manual has the entire section 22 missing.
The shop manual did not say anything about the part number though.
Masked for painting the recess in the dashboard where the defroster vents sits. The weather today was not at all condusive to painting. Cold and drizzling.
Put the original steering wheel on, I think I need another steering wheel so I do the restoring properly. And now I have some training too, since this one was the first.
The original steering wheel also revealed a noticeable slack in the steering box. I think some of it can be fixed by adjusting it, but I have a feeling that some of it is a large slack in the bushing/bearing on the shaft where the pit man arm is mounted. That is also repairable, but I don't have proper tools for that, and then it is also a question, shall I get a power steering box for it instead. Things I have on my mind.
However, the original steering wheel made it a lot easier to steer, but I suspect my wife will comment on how hard it is.
Does anyone have a picture of the correct power steering setup on a Dart, same year and engine ?
Bill
Put the original steering wheel on, I think I need another steering wheel so I do the restoring properly. And now I have some training too, since this one was the first.
The original steering wheel also revealed a noticeable slack in the steering box. I think some of it can be fixed by adjusting it, but I have a feeling that some of it is a large slack in the bushing/bearing on the shaft where the pit man arm is mounted. That is also repairable, but I don't have proper tools for that, and then it is also a question, shall I get a power steering box for it instead. Things I have on my mind.
However, the original steering wheel made it a lot easier to steer, but I suspect my wife will comment on how hard it is.
Does anyone have a picture of the correct power steering setup on a Dart, same year and engine ?
Bill
Yesterday I tried to put on the brand new PCV valve I have. I bought the valve itself from one place, and the cup and spring from a totally different place. The old PCV valve was not there when I bought the car, it is just like a second oil cap there.
Anyway, the cup in question was advertised for a V8, but since they looked the same I assumed they where the same. I sort of could not imagine Chrysler changing the size of the tube for something like that.
The new cup does not fit. It is too tight and does not go over the tube on the valve cover. If the diameter of the cup had been 1/32" larger in diameter it would have slid right over the tube.
So, does anyone know what is the issue here ?
Did Chrysler really have two types of cups and valve cover tubes, or is this just a part that is made wrong ?
Any help is appreciated.
Bill
Anyway, the cup in question was advertised for a V8, but since they looked the same I assumed they where the same. I sort of could not imagine Chrysler changing the size of the tube for something like that.
The new cup does not fit. It is too tight and does not go over the tube on the valve cover. If the diameter of the cup had been 1/32" larger in diameter it would have slid right over the tube.
So, does anyone know what is the issue here ?
Did Chrysler really have two types of cups and valve cover tubes, or is this just a part that is made wrong ?
Any help is appreciated.
Bill
wanna do mine for me haha looking good
Only one size and 2 different caps, one painted and one chrome.
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