My transmission seems to be slipping...torque converter??

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If it's slipping, no amount of hooking the linkage up or adjusting is going to fix it. None. In the time you've wasted with pulling the pan again and playing around with the linkage you could have had it out and been well on your way.
 
Ya, it's probably burnt, but if he doesn't figure out how to adjust that push button cable and kickdown, he's just going to burn it up again.
 
By picture I figure you want to see the flakes? I have the linkage set where each button bottoms at the detent on the rooster comb with no binding. The kickdown i do have a question about. Is the pressure switch supposed to be engaging the moment the throttle is pressed or is there supposed to be a little play before engaging? I currently have it set with no play. I will get a pic asap. Thank you for your patience...
 
Here you go. Let me know if you need more...l
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There is supposed to be play on that kickdown. If there is no play, then the carb won't be allowed to open up all the way. That's why you set the kd to all the way back at the same time the carb is all the way open. That metal might be from running the trans low on fluid; burning bushings and thrust washers. Never run the motor more than a minute if the trans isn't FULL. TransGo instructions dictate that the manual valve must be correctly adjusted within .030. Idk what "each button bottoms" means. Better follow shop manual instructions to adjust that precisely. If the arm that engages the manual valve is bent, then the detent won't match the placement of the manual valve within the valve body.
 
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Ok that makes sense about the kickdown. The instructions in the service manual aren't very clear about that or the initial setting of the shift cable. The arm that actuates the manual valve has been welded on the bottom of the shaft it pivots on. Apparently it broke at some point and thats how it was repaired. I will take a look at the transgo instructions. Hopefully they did it right. I'm skeptical of that due to the quality of the weld job.
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CudaFactHackJob said:
There is supposed to be play on that kickdown. If there is no play, then the carb won't be allowed to open up all the way. That's why you set the kd to all the way back at the same time the carb is all the way open. That metal might be from running the trans low on fluid; burning bushings and thrust washers. Never run the motor more than a minute if the trans isn't FULL. TransGo instructions dictate that the manual valve must be correctly adjusted within .030. Idk what "each button bottoms" means. Better follow shop manual instructions to adjust that precisely. If the arm that engages the manual valve is bent, then the detent won't match the placement of the manual valve within the valve body.
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I'm having trouble finding those instructions. Do you happen to have a link?
 
Is the measurement the same with the push button setup? Looks like the valve body needs to come out to verify this mesurement.
 
So do you think the transmission needs to come out for an overhaul? Or is there more that can be done?
 
I thought you were going to remove the valve body, split it open, and check the measurement of the manual valve land against the edge of the third slot; while in Park.
 
Ok here's an update. Set kickdown as per instructions and verified shift cable in correct position. Verified bands set. Put pan back fill with new fluid. Started car checked fluid again topped off. Seems to be driving just as it should. No slipping....so far. Will monitor very closely. I appreciate everyone's help. I owe a lot of gratitude to the people here. I learn something everytime i come here. Thank you. I hope this is fixes the problem. If not ill be back...
 
I believe the broken kickdown lever and loose front band started the problem. The lock nut on the front band adjuster kept coming loose causing the band to also loosen up.
 
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