NASON Epoxy Primer/POR-15 Questions

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JeffisOld

JeffisOld

Old, Ugly and generally Disagreeable!
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Once I get the girl back on the rotisserie and finalize some bottom welding and clean up I p!an to spray the whole naked body with the 2 part coating.

Once that's done i will begin the body work and know I must scuff accordingly.

My real question is that on the bottom and inside, will I need to scuff the primer before I put a coating of POR? My plan is to POR the bottom and complete inside before procedind to body work.

I also plan to.paint the door jams, inside doors and the lower side of the hood and deck lid before final.paint!

Is what I have said here correct?

This body **** hurts my head!
 
JeffisOld said:
Once I get the girl back on the rotisserie and finalize some bottom welding and clean up I p!an to spray the whole naked body with the 2 part coating.

Once that's done i will begin the body work and know I must scuff accordingly.

My real question is that on the bottom and inside, will I need to scuff the primer before I put a coating of POR? My plan is to POR the bottom and complete inside before procedind to body work.

I also plan to.paint the door jams, inside doors and the lower side of the hood and deck lid before final.paint!

Is what I have said here correct?

This body **** hurts my head!
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If body is media blasted, prime with epoxy immediately if the blaster doesn't do it. If it's bare metal, DA with 80 grit for good tooth. 80 grit is fine and if going over bare metal it
won't shrink and come back with sanding scratches which is likely if priming over paint. Make sure you de-grease good before applying any top coat. POR 15 is not designed for
coating over media blasted metal. It is designed to go over cleaned rusted areas. If you are doing the work yourself, it might be beneficial to do a panel at a time, so you don't
get a lot of bare metal exposed at one time. As for adhesion, everywhere paint is applied the area needs to be sanded/scuffed. Not sanding/scuffing any substrate is how paint
flakes. Attention to detail is key.
 
I used POR 15 inside and on the bottom of the Cuda and inside any panels and frame that I opened up before welding them back in. I used their metal prep first. The stuff is made to go on bare metal or over rust. I took all the rust out first. It's not made to go over other coatings and IMO it would be a waste of money using both. I couldn't spray the 2 part epoxy in the shop so I brushed it on everything that doesn't show then I sprayed rubberized rocker guard over the POR. It goes along way and lays down nice.

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I found a lot of new rust within the areas that I opened up in my last repair cycle , all of it had been professionally prepped and coated with POR15 . I personally will not waste my money on their product again ,the shop that applied it swore by it. I used 2 part epoxy primer on all areas that didn't need welding immediately after stripping to bare metal , weld through primer on those that did require welding and covered everything with a second layer of the epoxy .
 
cannucky said:
I found a lot of new rust within the areas that I opened up in my last repair cycle , all of it had been professionally prepped and coated with POR15 . I personally will not waste my money on their product again ,the shop that applied it swore by it. I used 2 part epoxy primer on all areas that didn't need welding immediately after stripping to bare metal , weld through primer on those that did require welding and covered everything with a second layer of the epoxy .
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Heaven forbid that you run across another killer car wash and we find out that 2 part epoxy doesn't work either,,,LOL
 
cannucky said:
I found a lot of new rust within the areas that I opened up in my last repair cycle , all of it had been professionally prepped and coated with POR15 . I personally will not waste my money on their product again ,the shop that applied it swore by it. I used 2 part epoxy primer on all areas that didn't need welding immediately after stripping to bare metal , weld through primer on those that did require welding and covered everything with a second layer of the epoxy .
Click to expand...

LJ67barracuda340 said:
Heaven forbid that you run across another killer car wash and we find out that 2 part epoxy doesn't work either,,,LOL
Click to expand...


Don't scare me guys!

I am not into Halloween!
 
We sprayed DP50 over everything after sandblasting. That stuff cures rock hard. It was always necessary to scuff/sand for any topcoat, even undercoating.
 
To the OP , por15 isn't meant to be used over any sort of paint or primer it is supposed to be in direct contact with metal and magically convert any oxidation into a porceline like finish , what I am saying is it didn't convert all of it and the rust actually grew slowly within the por 15 , now I have been told mixing it 50/50 with tremclad makes it work much better but if you clean the oxidation off completely and coat with 2 part epoxy there is no reason to cover that with POR 15 because it won't be doing anything anyway .
 
Oh and Halloween is awesome , when else can you dig a grave in your yard and the neighbours will all think it's a cute decoration ?
 
POR 15 is to be put on rusty, wire brushed metal.
I used it on my Willys frame 10 years ago and it still looks great.
Use their entire system.

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Using an epoxy and POR, to me is like using two rubbers, when one will do nicely. I would use the POR, KBS, and DP50 only if I was NOT going to paint over the coating. The risk factor is high for the next coat of primer/paint flake and peeling off, POR now has a product to help adhesion, POR tie coat, POR realized they had a problem. I do use a rust prevention system, I use a rust proofing wand to get in the frame rails and inside door panels, inside rear quarters and the other key areas where I cannot get to with paint gun.
KBS has the product just the same as POR15 and others but, you can get it in the shade/color of your car, my car color is blue, I use the blue coat, if the top coat does flake at least its a blue undercoat. I am not saying people use these product have not great success and they do, you have to take the extra time for prep and then again use the tie coat products. If you choose not to, it would be like painting a black top road.......
 
The thing about POR is it will look great because it creates a hard candy coating , the problem is you don't know whats happening inside that candy coating , I literally tore the trunk floor bumper mount gussets off with my bear hands , they looked great the trunk floor around them looked glossy and new but after the valance was cut off and you could see inside them you could see the layer of rust between the POR 15 and the metal , I wish I had the capability to take extremely close up pictures because at the time that was one of the things I wanted to document clearer for a day like this .Forget the Magic Snake Oil products and do it right , if you can't strip it 100% bare and clean then cut it out and replace it with new metal .
 
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