Need advice on used engine

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ABQDart116

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Hey guys I just recently bought another 225 slant for my sedan from craigslist. Unfortunately, in my haste, I didn't realize all the differences between it and my 1970 225.

My car runs alright but I wanted to start building another engine for a boosted setup. So I bought it for $190 with an A903 3 speed. The engine # is 2463430 which means it is a 225 RG from 1966. My car is a 1970 Dart Custom Sedan with an A903. I realize my torque converter will not fit, which is fine since I wanted to have one built. I won't be using the 903 but instead keeping my 904. I noticed the spark plugs don't sit as deep into the head as mine aswell. Is there any other differences that may pose a problem for me when trying to use this? I've searched and haven't found much in the way of differences, and there's quite a bit of conflicting information on the various forums I lurk.

IMAG0189_zpsvnxg4orq.jpg


Don't mind the stand I built for it, needed to get it off my hoist since the wife has almost run into it twice. Thanks in advance guys for any help!
 
Do you have more pix of the stand from the other sides?

I'm thinking of making a cradle for my slant, but haven't seen anything (well, there is that plywood setup I've seen on this site, but I wanted to weld something up)

Thanks!
 
How can you use a converter of any kind with a 903? A 903 is a 3 speed manual transmission.
 
64DartGTinAZ said:
Do you have more pix of the stand from the other sides?

I'm thinking of making a cradle for my slant, but haven't seen anything (well, there is that plywood setup I've seen on this site, but I wanted to weld something up)

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I made one out of some steel I had laying around, and put wheels on it to move it.
I didn't mount it on the insulators, just on the brackets.
 

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64DartGTinAZ said:
Do you have more pix of the stand from the other sides?

I'm thinking of making a cradle for my slant, but haven't seen anything (well, there is that plywood setup I've seen on this site, but I wanted to weld something up)

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I'll send ya some pics/dimensions tomorrow when there's better light.



How can you use a converter of any kind with a 903? A 903 is a 3 speed manual transmission.
Click to expand...

Obviously, you can't. I think I typed that I had a 903 in my car accidentally, I have an A904 automatic. I'm not using the A903 from the new engine at all, that's going into the trash. But the pre and post '68 engines have different crank registers. Seems like my options are to either find a pre '68 trans or have a custom torque converter made to fit the crank and my trans.


So again, back to my original question, does anyone happen to know of any other differences between the pre-68 and post-68 engines? I believe the crank register is 1.550" on the pre 68s and 1.810" on the post 68s. Does anyone have any info on the difference in head design between the pre and post 68 engines? Thanks again for any help guys, really don't want to tell the wife I goof'd and need to cluck this engine for one that matches my vehicles year.
 
cjh said:
I made one out of some steel I had laying around, and put wheels on it to move it.
I didn't mount it on the insulators, just on the brackets.
Click to expand...

cjh, I really like that stand. Looks much lighter than mine and I bet a bit quicker to fab up.
 
As you found out, the crank register is the biggest problem. If you are going to get a different converter, anyway, just have it built with the early small pilot nub, and the late large internal splines. I have all my converters built that way.Most places don't charge extra to do that. If you just want a "stock" type converter, I am told Daaco converters has them available with the small pilot, and large splines. You will also need an early flexplate. These are getting hard to find.

Next you need to swap the oil pan and pickup tube between engines, but do not throw out the 66 pan and pickup tube. They are necessary to put a later engine in a early "A", and people are looking for them. Also need to use the later engine mounts and brackets on the early engine.
Any slant six head will swap on to any slant six engine, so you can do whatever you want in that regard. I would just keep the 66 head with that engine, as there is a greater selection of spark plugs available for the "drool tube" head, then the later head.
If staying with the 1 bbl carb, you will need to use the late carb, as the throttle linkage hookup is different. Maybe the choke, also, but I am not sure, on that.
Keep the crankshaft damper, and timing cover and tab matched, as the timing mark location is different between the two engines. They can be swapped as a pair, but don't mix them.

Everything else is just a straight swap
I think that is everything
 
Jarlaxle said:
Did the 1966 engine have a PCV (CCV) system?
Click to expand...

Yes, just like the picture shows.

PS: just a FYI, the hose connected the the base of the carb, and the passage in the carb would get plugged up, and the PCV would not work, even when changing the valve and/or hose. Usually required removing the carb and using a drill bit (by hand) to clean the right angle passage. A base gasket not installed properly would also stop the PCV from functioning.
 
Charrlie is right about the converter. Hughes built mine with the small (snout).(nub)(nose)(pilot) crank register.
 

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Working on my second POT

I have one converter that was for the early trans. 8 inch TCI, that was rebuilt by PTC,with the large splines for the late trans.
Two 9 1/2 inch converters by EDGE with the small pilot, large splines.
I can use these converters with an early engine, as is.
Late engine with an inexpensive crank adapter.
Late trans, as is.
Early trans, with a input shaft/pump change to late parts.
Any combination of the above.

My 66 Cuda has the 8 inch converter, early 170 engine, 65 trans, 64 Manual Valve body and pushbutton shifter, V-8 998 front pump, shaft and clutch packs. Still has the flanged output shaft, with a B&T to slip joint conversion.
 
if you have the 1966 auto tranny-- someone might want that as it doesn't have the ball/trunion set-up for the small crankshaft snout. good for swapping out the push button style. Lawrence
 
I think the heads should be almost identical between 66 & 70. Both are "drool tube" type, i.e. removable spark plug tubes w/ rubber seals. The seals are cheap, so no reason to drool. Much later heads (~1976?) had integral plug holes, with the disadvantage that you can't remove the lifters without pulling the head, so a camshaft swap is tougher.

If the spark plugs are protruding more (sounds like), the PO might have left the metal gaskets on. You are supposed to remove them. That puts the plug deeper in the head for better spark plus a little more compression. Of course the plugs could just be a different PN.
 
Charrlie_S said:
As you found out, the crank register is the biggest problem. If you are going to get a different converter, anyway, just have it built with the early small pilot nub, and the late large internal splines. I have all my converters built that way.Most places don't charge extra to do that. If you just want a "stock" type converter, I am told Daaco converters has them available with the small pilot, and large splines. You will also need an early flexplate. These are getting hard to find.

Next you need to swap the oil pan and pickup tube between engines, but do not throw out the 66 pan and pickup tube. They are necessary to put a later engine in a early "A", and people are looking for them. Also need to use the later engine mounts and brackets on the early engine.
Any slant six head will swap on to any slant six engine, so you can do whatever you want in that regard. I would just keep the 66 head with that engine, as there is a greater selection of spark plugs available for the "drool tube" head, then the later head.
If staying with the 1 bbl carb, you will need to use the late carb, as the throttle linkage hookup is different. Maybe the choke, also, but I am not sure, on that.
Keep the crankshaft damper, and timing cover and tab matched, as the timing mark location is different between the two engines. They can be swapped as a pair, but don't mix them.

Everything else is just a straight swap
I think that is everything
Click to expand...


This is exactly what I needed to know. Now it's time to start draining the savings account. Thanks everyone for the help!
 
ABQDart116 said:
cjh, I really like that stand. Looks much lighter than mine and I bet a bit quicker to fab up.
Click to expand...

Yeah....it didn't take too long....about 4 hrs, thereabouts.
I used what I had....40 x 40 x 2 RHS and some angle and flat bar....had to go out and buy the wheels....lockable castors.
 
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