NEED HELP,FUEL PUMP BOLT ISSUE,LEAKS OIL

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Another option is something I did to repair a broken tail light mount(plastic).
It MAY work in this situation.
Take the proper bolt and wrap in teflon tape. Then clean the hole extremely well. Use the proper JB WELD product(theres quite a variety) and put it on the tape wrapped bolt and some in hole if need be. Let it sit and cure, then unthread bolt from hole. Hopefully the tape will come out with bolt. If not peel it out of hole. Make sure no JB drips down on inside of housing to oil area.
 
4spdragtop said:
Another option is something I did to repair a broken tail light mount(plastic).
It MAY work in this situation.
Take the proper bolt and wrap in teflon tape. Then clean the hole extremely well. Use the proper JB WELD product(theres quite a variety) and put it on the tape wrapped bolt and some in hole if need be. Let it sit and cure, then unthread bolt from hole. Hopefully the tape will come out with bolt. If not peel it out of hole. Make sure no JB drips down on inside of housing to oil area.
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Interesting Idea
 
Post #112. I think I have the lens still, I'll have to see if I can find it.
I dont trust myself enuf to drill/tap and not get shavings in it lol.
All it costs is JB, and plumbers tape and some time.
Dads 67 "S"capade
 
You would think if they used a short bolt, that 1/2 the threads would still be in the aluminum timing chain cover yet.

Like one guy was saying you could reach around the corner to catch the Rinse from Brake Parts Cleaner with a shop wrag.

Then with it clean JB weld a repair stud permanently into the 1/2 stripped hole. Can reach around the corner and wipe off any JB weld if it gets by to the inside before it sets up.

Let cure overnight, assemble and go.

20230127_150901.jpg


Or just a straight repair stud of the proper thread Size and Length.
 
Drilling the hole and tapping it does not necessarily require power tools.

My bet is you could chuck the propper sized drill bit into the tap holder and drill the new hole by hand slowly.

The chips will be relatively large so a rag or gauze rag in the pump opening and a finger behind it should prevent 99% of all chips ending up in the engine.
 
mrs49 said:
Seems like you are new to the car, why not get what you need to replace the timing chain and water pump and bond with your car. You will learn a lot and you can fix your fuel pump problem while you're at it.
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Yes I bought it recently,but am not new to old cars. I’m not looking to create more of a project for myself for “fun”. I work daily and my fun is driving them. I don’t mind working on them when it’s something that NEEDS to be done and I have the time. But I don’t want to replace things that are still perfectly serviceable just to do it. I always thought it was crazy that people would buy perfectly good cars that ran and drove and then instead of driving them while they save money,the would immediately take them apart and start doing things they didn’t need to do,lose interest,run out of money and then have this giant jigsaw puzzle sitting in their garage that is no good to anyone and a headache for the next guy to come along.
For some reason it seems most folks view 50’s-70’s cars as toys to take out on the weekend. Something to tinker with. This will be a daily driver.
Dana67Dart said:
Nope sorry. Try googling fuel pump bolts small block Mopar.

If you inlist the help of a friend with a vacuum you could probably slowly drill out the hole and tap it without getting too much material inside the engine

REALLY BAD IDEA.....

you MUGHT be able to put a bolt in through the fuel pump hole then into the stripped hole to the outside. The bolt would need to have a way to keep it from rotating, like cutting a slot in the end for a screwdriver and a way to keep it from slipping back into the engine. (Speed nut / one-way washer, JB weld???)


Good luck
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here’s a photo of the bolt. I took it out this morning to measure it.

D54A2A62-4B1B-4C56-A14D-992F15AEAA2D.jpeg
 
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Your photo looks the same.

Are both bolts the same looking (you said one was longer)

Here is a photo of real fuel pump bolts.

Screenshot_20230131-212417.png
 
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George Jets said:
You would think if they used a short bolt, that 1/2 the threads would still be in the aluminum timing chain cover yet.

Like one guy was saying you could reach around the corner to catch the Rinse from Brake Parts Cleaner with a shop wrag.

Then with it clean JB weld a repair stud permanently into the 1/2 stripped hole. Can reach around the corner and wipe off any JB weld if it gets by to the inside before it sets up.

Let cure overnight, assemble and go.

View attachment 1716042573

Or just a straight repair stud of the proper thread Size and Length.
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This is a good idea
 
Wow after watching the video I'm super impressed.

I like the one with the counter sunk hole for a open hole into the crankcase.

And for all of the "calibrated" arm wrenchers, 360 inch lbs is 30 ft lbs.

So most of the non insert fixes would have spun by the time you get there.

I'm still going with 30 ft lbs into iron translates to 15 ft lbs into aluminum


Screenshot_20230201-120015.png


Screenshot_20230201-120038.png
 
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Grease in a tap works well. I’ve done a spark plug thread in a pinch for a coworker once who cross threaded a plug at work one evening in a Nissan four. I was able to get a standard tap back through it and got full chip recovery with the plug facing straight down into the chamber. I like using the tap wrench with a drill bit and Heli-Coil while blowing air (shop vac reduced to a heater hose set to blow in the pump arm opening) from the backside.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Your photo looks the same.

Are both bolts the same looking (you said one was longer)

Here is a photo of real fuel pump bolts.

View attachment 1716042601
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Hi,Thanks. Both bolts look the same,,but one bolt (the one in my photo) is longer than the other. The front one was slightly shorter but had the same exact head and look to it. Is the one in the photo I posted the correct size they both should be? The shorter one is in the front hole that isn’t stripped facing the front of the car. The longer one was in the rear hole. This was how it was when I took the pump off

F811361B-4296-41F0-A028-34E52B8C4C1C.jpeg
 
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i would bet(not real money) that the longer bolt is from an early big block intake. they had that type of bolt holding the intake on.
 
a temporary fix is only temporary until it isn't

if this is going to be your daily driver, fix it properly. to me that would be a timesert or other threaded type insert, not JB weld. ideally, though, pulling the cover and repairing or replacing it would be the best option. however, going slow and steady with hand tools, grease and a steady hand you could minimize the risk of metal in the motor if you don't want to commit a saturday to that job.
 
1968 Dart 270 said:
Is the one in the photo I posted the correct size they both should be
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The one you posted has 21 threads. The ones I posted have 21 threads.
When I do the math... Yes.

How much longer is the longer one?
 
Dana67Dart said:
The one you posted has 21 threads. The ones I posted have 21 threads.
When I do the math... Yes.

How much longer is the longer one?
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The one in the photo is the longer one. So it appears it is the correct bolt then. That’s good to know.
There’s been lots of good advice here. I’ll probably do the heli-coil repair since it seems the best option for the money. It’s just a shame this had to happen. Such a simple thing as one bolt.
 
My guess on how it got stripped in the first place, the eccentric on the cam was as the high point, putting pressure on the fuel pump arm.
Somebody changed the pump, and bound it up, so they just tightened the crap out of the bolts to pull it flush with the cover.
 
sireland67 said:
My guess on how it got stripped in the first place, the eccentric on the cam was as the high point, putting pressure on the fuel pump arm.
Somebody changed the pump, and bound it up, so they just tightened the crap out of the bolts to pull it flush with the cover.
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You’re probably right. You’d think they would have felt that when they installed it though. The fuel pump did work when I got the car. I had just replaced it because I assumed it was leaking. Turns out it was oil from the one bolt not tightening down. Too bad they made the mounting area the bolts go into out of aluminum. Seems like it’s always something,huh?
 
KosmicKuda said:
When I fix things, I like to do it once and permanently.
To me that means Heli-coil or Keensert. There may be enough room to do it on the car but if not, remove the cover first. The hole has to be drilled out to the proper size for the insert. Right angle drill?

And any fastener that that goes into a cavity must have sealant on the threads. That's the rear hole, the front one is blind and doesn't need sealant.

Reminds me of the time I took my car out of storage and while blowing the carbon out, the rear exhaust header bolt actually blew out. Steam everywhere. Small block heads have exhaust bolts on the end that go into a water passage and the wall is very thin. Previous iwner had stripped it. Took the heads off and heli-coiled them.

Sounds like a previous owner just grabbed whatever was on hand and threw it together. Typical.

BTW, if the bolt head has a 1/2" head it's 5/16-18 UNC. If it's 9/16" then it's 3/8-16 UNC. A general rule of thumb is aluminum should have 2X the bolt diameter thread engagement. One bolt diameter engagement for steel or cast iron.
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Thanks KosmicKuda,it’s 9/16” so 3/8 so this kit for $30 would be the one. When you say use sealant,are you meaning I should put red loctite on the helicoil when it’s inserted? In one of the videos online they said helicoil recommends never stacking helicoils and never putting loctite on them. What would you recommend? Also in the videos I watched it shows the tang being broken off the helicoil after it’s driven on. I wouldn’t want that to fall into the engine.

34D3892D-5F12-4D42-BE36-F34C5549A918.jpeg
 
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1968 Dart 270 said:
I watched it shows the tang being broken off the helicoil after it’s driven on. I wouldn’t want that to fall into the engine
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Bearing grease on a rag behind the hole where the insert is installed. (Might need 3 hands) brake off tab as instructed, catch tab in greasy rag, carefully remove. Account for everything, like during a surgery.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Bearing grease on a rag behind the hole where the insert is installed. (Might need 3 hands) brake off tab as instructed, catch tab in greasy rag, carefully remove. Account for everything, like during a surgery.
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From the photos you posted of the aluminum cover it appears the hole behind the bolt hole is smaller. Perhaps it wouldn’t go through and could be pulled out with a vacuum cleaner?
 
1968 Dart 270 said:
From the photos you posted of the aluminum cover it appears the hole behind the bolt hole is smaller. Perhaps it wouldn’t go through and could be pulled out with a vacuum cleaner
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I'm sure the threads go all the way through. The hole ID is smaller than the bolt od.


If you want to vaccume, bend a small ( about the same diameter as the hole) piece of copper tube into a J shape.

Attach the long side to a shop vac and insert it in the pump hole and line it up with the hole you are drilling and suck away!

Greasy gauze rag would be easier.

I think you are over complicating this.

Get-er-done
 
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Also Hilicoils come in different lengths.

I would go for the longest without sticking out the back of the hole
 
this may be one of those situations where a timesert lends itself better to the application in that there's no tang to snap off.

wholeheartedly agree with implementing a two pronged approach with grease and a vaccum to catch any stray detritus
 
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