Need Help! Motor turns....won't start

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So yesterday after following everyones advice (thanks again!) I got a chance to dig into the car a bit. With a little daylight the problem wasn't too hard to figure out.

As it turns out it was the Ignition Control Unit...easy fix! She fired right up afterwards! I have to say there isn't a better feeling in the world than having the ol' girl up and running after a week of non-stop work related hell.

After letting the car idle for a bit I took a ride down to our Pull-A-Part and grabbed myself some goodies. 2 Ignition coils, 3 Ignition control units and all the ballast resistors I could find for a meager $15! I did spot a nice 225 in a Volare that may soon become a winter project.

I want to say thanks again for everyones words of wisdom. The brotherhood here on FABO and all across the Mopar world is what keeps us all on the streets!!!!
 
And HOW DO YOU SPELL RELIEF ??? I'm sure once I get back into my /6 build I'm gonna be in the same boat with questions out the Kazoo !!!Glad you were able to find a simple fix for yours !!!
 
Thanks for letting us know the resolution. Usually when an engine won't fire, it is either "no spark" or "no fuel". The first you can easily check with an in-line spark tester, the latter with starting fluid. If still won't, probably something in the camshaft drive or distributor. In your slant six, those could be from a broken plastic distributor gear or a worn timing chain jumped teeth.

My Chrysler 2.4L stumped me until I found "camshaft not turning", due to failed bearings in the belt drive (twice). The first time, I had a good clue since it sounded like ball bearings rattling in a pan just before the engine died (3K miles after 36K mi warranty), second time (100K later) it died quietly (on elevated freeway) but I thought "that again?". You will get to know your engines features and faults.
 
So, here we go again! Decided I was gonna take the dart to.work yesterday since it was nice out. Jumped in the car to warm her up and she's doing the same thing!!

I guess with everyone's advice this time won't be so frustrating....I hope. Looks like I have a date with a distributor and timing cover on Thursday and Friday.
 
So I had a chance to get back under the hood of the car today.

This is the busiest time of the year for my wife and I...so every precious hour I spend spend working on the car is a blessing!

Last week I replaced the ballast resistor and Iginition Control Module...which seemed to fix my issue here.. A few days later it was back to zero...car decided it wasn't going to start!

So this morning I go outside and pop hood and the air cleaner just to check that she's getting fuel..and she was. So I set the choke and hit the key just for the hell of it....and she fired right up!

I know at this point my issue could be almost anywhere..have any of you guys ever experienced this?????????? I'm at a loss and I don't want to just throw parts at the car.

Happy Veteran's Day!
 
Also....

I've never really had to deal with a single barrel and cold starts in the morning. You guys have any advice or set-ups to help?

Thanks in advance!!
 
So here we go again..just went outside to try and start the car. It started and sputtered like crazy for a few seconds, no matter how much a tried to even out the sputter with the throttle I got no repsonse. Its starting to feel like my fuel pump may be going bad...

I hate assuming, but is that what it sounds like to you guys?
 
Sounds like a choke issue now. Search FABO for choke and "choke pull-off". My 225 Slant Six w/ Holley 1920 carb was always a problem starting until I found my choke pull-off wasn't working (torn diaphragm). You need the choke set where it is closed pretty tight on a cold morning, then the pull-off pops it open slightly (to drill diameter shown in manual) when the engine starts running. If not, it will flood rich. Best to start looking for a better carb since the 1920 has many problems and many rebuilt ones are bad. Many prefer the BBD carb. You could even take the whole intake, O2 feedback carb and engine controller from a 1980's slant six (I think they had them) to be fairly modern. Check www.slantsix.org for ideas.
 
Could be the connector between the distributor and coil also.
My car acted just like that till I figured it out and just cut that connector out and soldered the wires.
It's an easy test too.
Unplug the connector and clamp the bullet sockets down a bit and try it again.
It solved my problem as well as another member here on the site.
 
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