It's not just the jetting and rods with those. It's everything. It's the boosters as well. There's a thread around here somewhere showing just how many differences there between the 1405 and 1406. People can flip and flop it and argue it however they want, but the two carburetors are vastly different. It's been well documented.
That is correct, but my point is that tuning is required no matter which car brand or type used to get optimum performance. During the '76-'77 gas crisis, i changed the cam in my 340 to a 318 cam, tuned the AVS to perfection (leanest AFR for power) and used 2.94 gears and 28" tall tires. I got 24-25 MPG on drives from LA to SF or the like and actually went from South SF to Irvine, CA on one tank of gas. ~400 miles. The car still turned 14.50's at OCIR with this setup, so it was no slouch, but down from 13.50's stock.
I believe we all get that. I don't think anyone disagrees.
I understand completely. I think you're right on the money.
Thank you. The needle seats and needles are brand new, floats are set at 7/16”. I got a pressure tester on it and it’s at 7-8 psi. The floats would need to be set higher not lower, correct? Greater than 7/16” to put more force on the needle? I think I’m at the point where I’m either going to throw a regulator on it or go buy a street demon….
I had this issues several years ago and was at Carlisle where Herb McCandless recommended a product called Carb Defender from a company called Driven. I have used it religiously ever since on 3 carbed LA motors and the Weber on my Rampage with no further issues with internal corrosion.
Small block chevy bolts right up, even uses the same gasket.
100%. I've witnessed exactly what you're describing with fuel pressure bending the float tabs. Huge issue with the Carter carbs in the Jeep world. 4 psi max. The fuel filter controls pressure, and nobody checks fuel pressure after they replace it. 6 PSI, and the carb won't last a month. So people think the carb needs to be rebuilt, still don't check fuel pressure, and happens again less than a month. Then they blame the carb say it's junk. So they buy a new carb, and then decide that now fuel pressure matters. Lol if fuel pressure is high you can drill out the orifice to control it, but nobody does that either. They had a second regulator, and that's how they control pressure. Drives me nuts. But anyway yes you are absolutely correct
Fuel pressure 100% will bend the tangs for the float on some carbs. Huge problem on the older Jeeps with the inline 6 and the Carter carbs. 6 psi is all it takes with that carb. The needle gets forced back The floats are all the way up and there's no movement left. You can put brand new float and needle and everything in there, and if it's over 4 PSI it does it again less than a month. I've personally witnessed it numerous times.
Right. People all too often get caught up with pressure. You can have 2 PSI, but if the volume is there, you got it licked. Conversely, you can have 10 PSI, but without volume, you'll run outta gas goin up a hill.
Agree.
blah blah blah boosheet boosheet I caint read what you're typin cause I have my fingers in my ears.
