Need more power

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Tool505

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What can I change up in my current combo to see 12's in colorado. I know from past posts that I need to re gear just don't have a lot of rpm to play with with my current 3 speed manual. What kind of track times would I be looking at with lower gears


360 magnum block
Cast crank .10 over
Kb 107 10.5.1
Eagle sir rods
Eq heads w/1.90and 1.60 valves
3 angle valve job w/ dual springs
1.5 roller rockers
Comp cam 20-812-9 ( xr280hr10 ) 541/537 lift 230/236 duration
Rpm airgap intake
Edelbrock avs 650
1 3/4 full length headers

Stock 8 1/4 rear probably 2.76 ish
 
I was debating the bottle, wasn't sure what size shot I could do since the piston rings weren't gapped for it and they are hyp
 
Not a good idea to spray then. I would be looking at a set of gears. 3.55's would be a. Excellent set IMO
 
depends on rpm. a 4.88 or 4.56 set would prob help you a lot. tires and suspension will determine ET. also, 3 speed manual trans is not a real good choice. you have to be able to power shift a manual trans when racing. might look into a 4 speed trans. you don't mention current times. ET is made with chassis and gears and tires. mph is with motor.
 
Ditch the 2.76 gears, I had those with a smaller cam and it was a dog off the line, but ran good once the RPMs got up. Im going with 3.91 gears now
 
Even with 4.10's and a good converter, the 12's will probably be out of reach unless your car is REALLY light. Basically you need about an 11.5-11.8 car at sea level to run high 12's at Bandimere. For what its worth, my car picked up a little over a second when I moved from Colorado to Indiana.

Bringing your own atmosphere (nitrous) is a great way to go up on the mountain, but you should probably change pistons to go that route. I sprayed my car for 8 years when I lived out there, 11.1 all day long....until the nitrous ran out, lol....then it ran 13.8's.
 
I think you are barking up the wrong tree as was mentioned. The engine makes decent power. But you have to match the rest. Switch to a 4sp, and replace the gears with something near 4.10-4.30s. If you can stick it and shift it I'd think you're pretty close to "in the 12s".
 
What's the tranny code for the 4 speed and would it bolt up and use the same z bar and driveshaft. Also what's the easiest rear end swap
 
One concern I have tranny wise is internal or external balance. I have my motor mates to the a230 with no vibrations. The machine shop used a stock 318 flywheel and drilled it to match the 360 ones. I have no vibrations. Does this mean it is internal or external balanced since. Would the 4 speed match what I have.
 
The transmission doesn't care what the engine balance is.
The Trans is know as a A-833. There called a "New Process."
I actually don't know if the driveshaft is an issue. Dang! Good question.
Off the cuff, I'd say no. It will use the same equipment that is there now.

Easiest? Swap in any like year A body rear.
The 8-1/4 can be upgraded imexpensivly with a sure grip and gears.
The other rears, 8-3/4 & the DANA are more expensive.
The 9-3/4 is nice for it's strength and the ability to swap gear ratios via center section swap. Once you get good, you can do it yourself in under 2 hours from start to cleaned up and ready to rock and roll.

The DANA is super strong!

Both are pricey by compare to the 8-1/4. Which has good strength.
 
really the cheapest route at this point would probably be to put different gears. usually local people who can do the work in expensive. I was able to get an 8 1/4 with 3:55 gears out of a 88 Dodge Dakota truck just had to flip the perches over to the other side. $300 parts and labor to put a track lock. always make the car quicker should be the cheapest bang for your buck becides some slicks. I would try it and then you can still put the for speed or do other stuff always start from the back of the car build forward. My 2 cents
 
I've pulled the 3sp out of an E bdoy and bolted in a 4sp. I see no reason why A bodies would be any different in terms of transmission interchange, but I do know some 3sp bellhousings don't have the 4sp pattern and the output shaft and slip yoke may be different between what you have and what you get. So crawl under and take for the 2nd bolt pattern first, and make sure you have a slip yoke for whatever transmission you buy handy.
 
How difficult would it be to go automatic. My car already has the floor hump installed since the tree linkage was shot when we got it
 
Not difficult at all. I'd remove the clutch pedal (can be done with pedals in the car). Unbolt the trans, bell, and flywheel. Bolt on flexplate, install trasna nd convertor. Install trans cooler. Install aftermarket cable-type shifter. Go race.
 
You need a sharp tune too, get a wide-band too. AEM Uego or Innovate LC-1 get my vote.
 
regarding the wideband o2. I'm having pretty good success with the innovate lm2.
 
I have the innovate in my car now. I came from the rice burner world so had some experience with tgem
 
That's a great combo, and should net some good power, if you want to make the car quicker in the 1/4, you need to set up the rest of the car. Like these other guys have said, the 3speed should become a auto with a good (3000) stall converter or a 4 speed trans. The rear gears really have to go if you wanna be quick. No amount of power adders is gonna make that car a rocket in the 1/4 with those, I'd go at least 3.55, but that's still not enough for even 13's at this altitude in my opinion. if you want to go 11's or 12's you need 4.10 or more, and a properly set up suspension

Joe
 
Forget the trans swap, you already have a heavy duty fully synchronized 3 speed. Change rear gears, set up the chassis for drag racing, and tune before swapping a trans, auto or 4 speed.
 
joeboy said:
.......... The rear gears really have to go if you wanna be quick. No amount of power adders is gonna make that car a rocket in the 1/4 with those, I'd go at least 3.55, but that's still not enough for even 13's at this altitude in my opinion. if you want to go 11's or 12's you need 4.10 or more, and a properly set up suspension

Joe
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I agree. My old mild 360 combo (360, eddy heads, 750dp, MP 509 cam) ran 14.5 at Bandimere with 3.55 gears. I swapped to 4.10 gears and the car ran 13.9...I eventually got it down to 13.5 NA, 11.1 @ 121 on the bottle.
 
66fs said:
Forget the trans swap, you already have a heavy duty fully synchronized 3 speed. Change rear gears, set up the chassis for drag racing, and tune before swapping a trans, auto or 4 speed.
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I'm just concerned about driving around if I go too low of gear. What kind of speeds could I still do with out terribly high rpm on the highway with 3.90 or 410 ish gears and the current 3 speed
 
Tool505 said:
I'm just concerned about driving around if I go too low of gear. What kind of speeds could I still do with out terribly high rpm on the highway with 3.90 or 410 ish gears and the current 3 speed
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Same as an automatic or 4 speed, final ratio is 1:1. Unless you get one of the 1975-1986 4 speed OD, the final ratio is .73:1. Since a transmission is a torque multiplier, .73 x 3.91 = 2.85 effective cruising gears for the 4 speed OD. I'll not get into the effects of gear spread or auto versus manual.
 
Tool505 said:
I'm just concerned about driving around if I go too low of gear. What kind of speeds could I still do with out terribly high rpm on the highway with 3.90 or 410 ish gears and the current 3 speed
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4.10's, 4spd, 255/60/15's (Approx a 27 inch tire)
I can and do travel with traffic @ 65mph @ 3400 rpm.
 
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