Need some help from a rust guru!

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halfafish said:
Many thanks to all for the input. Your tips are valuable and will help with the project going forward.



I do have a stick welder, but if I'm not the worst welder on the planet I could certainly give the winner a run for their money. If this and all the rest of the sheet-metal welding is beyond my capabilities, I will farm out the work.



A couple of valid points Mr. J Par, and I get it. Part of the problem was the initial hunt for the Dart. I already had a complete 383, 4-speed, and 8-3/4 for the car before I found it. I figured I was going to find a slant car to transplant the drive train, or maybe a 273 car. Never in my wildest dreams did I think I was going to find a very affordable, running, 340/727 car, albeit still with the original 7.25 rear end. That makes the situation more interesting. Now that I'm the proud owner of a 340 car, I may decide a healthy SB is enough for my street-fun desires and the BB will move on to another owner. Or maybe I decide to do the BB anyway. Maybe the auto is enough fun and the 4-speed hits the auction block. At this point, I'm going to get this thing street worthy and drive it for a while to decide what I really want to do. I'm stopping obvious deterioration and keeping the car indoors while I sort things out. Some stuff it doesn't make any difference when it gets done. Like the lights, horn, heater, ignition switch, brakes, etc all don't work. I'm aware I will be somewhat inefficient by doing things out of order, but I don't want to start a looooooooooong project at the moment. Get it driving, sort things out, decide where I want to go, then finish the car. It is indeed the dream car, and it will be done right in the end.
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Just a different approach that's all. My dream car is going to be done right from the beginning not in the end...
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Well if it isn't they just discontinued it in the last week. I just bought some. The paint remover I use is in a brown can. It is just standard paint remover.
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I'd be curious to know exactly what you used because the EPA banned methylene chloride or whatever the chemical was called that was in paint strippers. This was a year or two ago?

I haven't been able to find a paint stripper that'll even put a dent in automotive paint since.
 
Blasting?
**** that. Who wants to deal with the mess and take all that time?
The D/A works fine.
 
ESP47 said:
I'd be curious to know exactly what you used because the EPA banned methylene chloride or whatever the chemical was called that was in paint strippers. This was a year or two ago?

I haven't been able to find a paint stripper that'll even put a dent in automotive paint since.
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They didn't ban Methylene Chloride (the stuff that puts people who don't read the instruction to a permanent dirt knap). They banned the use of it in domestic paint stripper. I can buy a 5 gallon bucket of methylene chloride anywhere. There may be some who didn't take it off there shelves and some is still available here and there. I went to my local lumber/hardware store a few months ago and they had taken it all off the shelf. Roundup too. I asked them why do they still have ladders? Morons.
 
I believe MEC ( methylene Chloride) is available at places like Lowe's in Gal cans probably costs like $35 a gal??? It is potent stuff. I am no chemist but I believe it is related to chloroform!! Watch who you breath it!!!!!!
 
I would look at complete panels from AMD. The ones I uses were super straight and went in easily. If you farm it out it will be faster and less body work than patching in panels. I had a friend who is a body man do mine and he said I was money ahead in the long run doing complete panels.
 
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