New 416" street/track motor just fired up! (pics, vids, specs)

[autoxcuda]

Ok finally got the 416 motor running yesterday... Yessssss!

I bought the block on April 17, 2010. So about a year for this motor project. But really more than just a motor project....

Motor's is really nice. Revs pretty quick for a 4" stroke too. The idle and sound of Comp 274S mechanical cam seems like a good compromise for street and track car I was looking for. I'll report more later when we take it on the first drive. Troy Bray that used to be with Westoaks MP made this deal happen. He guided the whole motor built, ported the heads, has great fabrication skills.

Now to get ready for Spring Fling Speed Festival on April 14, 2011. It our track day out at the Willow Springs big track (loooong straights)

Basics:

ENGINE (as of 3/27/2011...)

•SHORT BLOCK: ‘69 340 block, now .030 over. Scat cast crank kit from Brian @Indio Motor and Machine.
•BLOCK MODS: Oil passages smoothed and ported to reduce turbulence/cavitation and help flow. Valley smoothed and cleaned up to help oil drain-back. Water jackets/passages meticulously picked clean of rust and slag.
•OIL PUMP: Melling high volume. Passages smoothed and matched to rear main cap.
•HEADS: Edlebrock. Full ported, intake and exhaust matched, combustion chambers matched to block,
•VALVE COVERS: Old Cal Custom finned ($40 swap meet) with steel core MP gaskets for good no leak and removable seal
•CAM: Comp 274S soild. .502/.511, 236/242 @.050
•ROCKERS: Comp Pro Magnum steel rollers.
•INTAKE: Mopar M1 Single plane, changed to squared carb flange, cleaned up plenum, port matched and indexed.
•CARB: Demon Silver Claw 750 cfm advertised. Firesleeve on pump to carb 3/8" fuel lines
•FUEL LINE: 3/8" sender and 3/8" body fuel line. Firesleeve near headers.
•IGNITION: MSD E-Curve distributor
•OIL PAN: Milodon Road Race/Pro Touring pan developed by Milodon from this project!
•WINDAGE TRAY: Milodon with Milodon main stud kit
•BOLTS AND STUDS: Milodon Made in USA all in house. Heads, Mains, Oil Pan​

COOLING SYSTEM:

•WATER PUMP: Milodon aluminum
•RADIATOR: Champion 4 core
•T-STAT: Milodon brass 160
•FAN CLUTCH: Hayden #2765 (short 3 5/16" mounting)
•FAN: MP viscous fan shortened 1" around
•FLUID: Distilled water, 2 bottles Justice Brothers Radiator Cooling System Protectant with water pump lubricant, 1 bottle Justice Brothers Super Radiator Cooler
•FAN SHROUD: Need to make. Both stock 67-72 ones will not fit with Champion 4 core​

EXHAUST

•HEADERS: TTI 3/4 stepped for best ground clearance. Port matched, ceramic coated outside, thremal barrier coating inside. Best quality.
•EXHAUST: TTI X-pipe with Super Turbos 2 1/2"​

TRANSMISSION

•TRANS: 727 Torqueflite, TCI shift kit, Type F fluid, will hold gear, can downshift, bang-screech
•SHIFTER: Worn beat-up B & M Quicksilver that came with car, ratchet action, sometimes a pain
•CONVERTER: 2600 stall and fins modded to get some engine braking.
•TRANS COOLER: All hard lines. 10x6".​

 

[autoxcuda]

Video of startup...

Troy Bray on controls as I run the video.

* Not idling. About 2000-2500 rpm breaking the cam in. Also no aircleaner and hood is up of course.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0_-lJTtFpY"]YouTube - 416 Mopar Small block start up[/ame]

 

[dodge freak]

I like the breather vents, what gears are you running, what is your "safe redline" what is up with the coil wire, lol

 

[autoxcuda]

coil wire makes it easier to hook a timing light to and it was too tight to fit the right angle boot coil wire end in there with all the other boots. The E-curve is super tight against the wiper motor so the plug wire need to be down low.

3.23 gear. BUT with super short 24.5" diameter tires!! Should go 6200 per cam specs. It's a mechanical cam. That plenty down the straights at Willow Springs and calcs out to about 135 mph. The tires, brakes, and driver aren't going to get to that speed yet.

 

[autoxcuda]

Hand picked clean between the water jackets for best cooling...

 

[autoxcuda]

The inside of the block was completely die grinded to smooth remove any casting flash and improve oil flow back down to the pan. Corners rounded and small contoured obstructions leveled. Left it slightly rough to get the Rustoleum paint to adhere corectly.

Smoothed access to the drain holes. Smoothed path of oil to the back of the valley. -Got to feed oil to my Milodon oil pan.

 

[mopar4x4stroker]

Congrats man sounds and looks great!!! I cant wait to finish my 408. I have a few questions though if you dont mind me asking?

Were did you get pre formed fuel lines or is that some kind of shrink wrap? Also were did you get the barbed T with the f/p gauge port? Whats the oil press @ idle/5,500 with the HV pump and mods? What brand damper is that and how well does it fit and line up, is it degreed? Also, What brand belts? Do top cog belts run cooler or slip less? You should do a cold start idle vid

 

[dodge freak]

I would keep everything as is...well a bit taller tires and 3.55 gears but gee can't have everything.

I run 3.91 gears and right now 25 inch tires but 340's love rpm's--and need it, lol Running the e curve also but in a B body. You going to have to set those dials right. Be sure to set the rev limiter! Mines right on, turn it to 7 and it kicks in right at 7,000 rpm..really smooth but noticeable , just feather back the throttle a bit and you can hold it right near redline----I like my short stroke 340.

I would set it a 5 so you can feel it easy at 5,000 and then go for 6 something. Personally I would try to keep it at 6 and with your tires ans gearing it might work out great..good acceleration and decent freeway manners.

Timing curve I go like 18 in and 15 advance, not all in til 3,500 for your stroker. I run lock timing at 32 but my engine never lugs with a 10 inch converter and gears. Motor likes it and I hear no knocking..did at higher timing

Enjoy and best of luck to you:angel7:

 

[autoxcuda]

Congrats man sounds and looks great!!! I cant wait to finish my 408. I have a few questions though if you dont mind me asking?

Were did you get pre formed fuel lines or is that some kind of shrink wrap? Also were did you get the barbed T with the f/p gauge port? Whats the oil press @ idle/5,500 with the HV pump and mods? What brand damper is that and how well does it fit and line up, is it degreed? Also, What brand belts? Do top cog belts run cooler or slip less? You should do a cold start idle vid

The fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb was custom made from 3/8" tube. The black stuff you see around it is called Firesleeve that insulates the tube repelling heat to keep the fuel from vaporizing and vapor locking.

The dual 3/8" tube from the filter to the carb is out of the box from Barry Grant. There is a screw plugged port that the gauge from Summit screwed right into.

When we primed the motor oil pressure go the the bypass amount, IIRC 60 psi? We haven't revved it to 5500 yet. We just got it started. Objective of the mods wasn't really to get high oil pressure number. But looking for quality at track speeds, temperatures, G-loading. Oil making sharp turns and mismatched ports gets turbulence causing aeration and bubbles. I think that might not always show on a pressure gauge pickup port at the top back of the block.

I don’t know the brand of the dampener. It’s fully degreed and seems to have a Chrysler casting number on it.

The belt is a Dayco. I think Top Cog. Just what they had at the parts store in Dayco. Not a big deal. The pulleys are lined up correctly. That the most important thing with belts. I’m not zipping this thing up to 7,000 rpm on a speed shift.

The first vid is cold start. Like FIRST start. Still burning assembly oil out the pipes.

 

[autoxcuda]

Some of the oil passage port work...

 

[pettybludart]

Nice work,she,s gonna pull hard outta the corners.Good luck with your racing,well deserved for your hard work.:glasses8:

 

[mopardude318]

looks and sounds good bud. see ya at the fling.

 

[cudaspaz]

Great looking motor/ love the breather set up-is it custom? I want one.

Keep us posted on how that E-curve dizzy works-I've been wondering if one of those would perk up my throttle response.

Need some "in action" video now.

 

[POS Dakota]

Looks like a really nice job. Good luck with it!

 

[vtmopar]

Looks good.
What did you use for pistons?

 

[autoxcuda]

Great looking motor/ love the breather set up-is it custom? I want one.

You're gonna crap when I tell you how we made that for like $8... Look at it closely... Any guesses?

Keep us posted on how that E-curve dizzy works-I've been wondering if one of those would perk up my throttle response.

Need some "in action" video now.

I ran it on the temporary 360 motor to try it out. Worked fine. I don't know if by itself would perk up throttle response. But to take the cap off you have to:
-loosen the timing
-turn the distributor one direction and take two wires off
-then turn the distributor the other direction and take one wire off.
-then the cap can come off.

April 14, 2011 I'll have the car back out at the big track at Willow Springs....

 

[autoxcuda]

Looks good.
What did you use for pistons?

The Icon forged pistons that come in the kit from Brian at Indio Motor and Maching (IMM).

 

[autoxcuda]

More build pics. And the Milodon ultra low profile roadrace/pro-touring stock height pan 6 qt (not including filter) ..

 

[Johnny Dart]

Looks great Steve !

Glad to see you got it back in the car. Cool to see you got Troy with you to.

 

[Snake]

Nice nice would like to here it idle

 

[HemiEd]

Careful, or Strokerscamp will be busting another one off. Very nice job, and thanks for all the pictures.
Curious about the late model alternator, is that a complicated upgrade over the old ones?

 

[autoxcuda]

Careful, or Strokerscamp will be busting another one off. Very nice job, and thanks for all the pictures.
Curious about the late model alternator, is that a complicated upgrade over the old ones?

The alternator was much simpler than we thought it would be. This one is the 6+ lbs 50 amp version that originally came on a Suzuki Samurai. But there's a guy on Ebay selling one wire versions for $75. Here's more info on my alternator deal:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=134960

I test ran this alternator on the old temp 360 motor. The lights didn't dim a bit at idle. And when I blipped the throttle in gear to get the RPM to dip down to like 400-450 rpm it just ever so slightly dimmed.

 

[autoxcuda]

Another video of the startup.

Still not idled down. But a little idea of what it sounds like out the back.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UngRQ4rcFbI"]YouTube - 416 Mopar Small block start up #2[/ame]

 

[mopar4x4stroker]

The fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb was custom made from 3/8" tube. The black stuff you see around it is called Firesleeve that insulates the tube repelling heat to keep the fuel from vaporizing and vapor locking.

Were do I get custom "pre formed" fuel line from? Do you have a link to the firesleeve stuff?

 

[autoxcuda]

Were do I get custom "pre formed" fuel line from?

It's not pre-formed. Troy Bray made it with a tubing bender himself. It fits around the small Denso alternator. Will not fit a stock alternator.

Do you have a link to the firesleeve stuff?

Just Google: firesleeve


[ame="http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4TSHB_enUS313US314&q=firesleve#hl=en&rlz=1T4TSHB_enUS313US314&sa=X&ei=aNqWTYnCMIfCsAPswuXGBQ&ved=0CCEQvwUoAQ&q=firesleeve&spell=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=dcf79db5820d0512"]firesleve - Google Search[/ame]

http://www.firesleeveandtape.com/

Or search firesleeve on ebay.