**NEW Edelbrock Victor Series Small Block Heads**

-
I wonder what can be had in flow when ported with a good valve Job. If they are saying 350CFM at .650 Lift out of the box...... I wonder how much material will be left to grind on when the real deal hits the streets?
 
not ootb, thats the plastic mold thats epoxy modified n such.

Really i was hoping somebody would come out with a head that flowed [email protected] OOTB and still had a 2.02 and 195-205cc int runner, i wouldnt care if required a special intake or spacers just as long as the exhaust was factory flange.
 
not ootb, thats the plastic mold thats epoxy modified n such.

Really i was hoping somebody would come out with a head that flowed [email protected] OOTB and still had a 2.02 and 195-205cc int runner, i wouldnt care if required a special intake or spacers just as long as the exhaust was factory flange.

Yes I seen that. I just figured if they are messing with the plastic version that they would base the real casting off of the research? I don't know, wishful thinking I guess.
 
this is what they do.....
 

Attachments

  • mopp_0505_edelbrocks_02_z.jpg
    7.9 KB · Views: 1,374
i would never recommend running a set of edelbrock mopar heads, i purchased mine BNIB, with a bright yellow sticker on the box that stated "bolt on, no machine work required"

well..........86 ports were "twisted" and didnt even have .050 on the runner walls, the springs had 4 shims and not even 90lbs seat pressure, they also needed to be resurfaced they were not true. the valves need a grind, and the pushrod holes needed to be redrilled. not to mention almost all the holes were helicoiled.

heres a pic of the ports the way they came from the box. i called a REP over the issue, and he said to me "chevy heads are our #1 seller, we dont have nearly as strict quality control on the ford/mopar heads, sorry but i dont see an issue, just minor clean up with a dremel." i noted the sticker "bolt on and go, no machine work required"....needless to say, it cost me $1200 in machine work to have them fixed, upon the $1600 purchase price.

heads3.jpg

heads5.jpg

heads1.jpg

heads4.jpg


AFTER the work
car136.jpg


car131.jpg
 
i would never recommend running a set of edelbrock mopar heads, i purchased mine BNIB, with a bright yellow sticker on the box that stated "bolt on, no machine work required"

well..........86 ports were "twisted" and didnt even have .050 on the runner walls, the springs had 4 shims and not even 90lbs seat pressure, they also needed to be resurfaced they were not true. the valves need a grind, and the pushrod holes needed to be redrilled. not to mention almost all the holes were helicoiled.

heres a pic of the ports the way they came from the box. i called a REP over the issue, and he said to me "chevy heads are our #1 seller, we dont have nearly as strict quality control on the ford/mopar heads, sorry but i dont see an issue, just minor clean up with a dremel." i noted the sticker "bolt on and go, no machine work required"....needless to say, it cost me $1200 in machine work to have them fixed, upon the $1600 purchase price.

heads3.jpg

heads5.jpg

heads1.jpg

heads4.jpg


AFTER the work
car136.jpg


car131.jpg
They were indeed fugly.......
 
Friend of mine bought Indy's awhile back for his very nasty BB '69 Dart...he paid extra for "The full works" and they arrived all FUBAR'd. And they also basically told him "Too bad," so he spend about another $2K getting 'em straightened out. After seeing it go down first hand, I would never buy from Indy, either.
 
Yeah, the only way to buy a head I believe is RAW. Take them to your machinist and have them cleaned up and assembled correctly.
 
just for your information: the helicoils are there to give the threads more strength. A thread in Aluminium is not as strong as a thread in steel or cast iron regarding tensile strength given the same length. This is plus in my opinion! i agree about the other issues.....not good.

Michael

not to mention almost all the holes were helicoiled.
 
That's a race head. I'm sure the thought process is there is little but B1-BAs as an intermediate between the street type heads (RPMs, Indys,W2/W5) and the exotic race stuff (W9,Pseries). Note the choice of lifter angle, the threaded coolant passage points for additional coolant flow, and the 18-bolt potential. It's not a street head.
As far as aftermarket... They ALL are like that. They ALL need to be checked and corrected. Tehy will bolt on, and they will run in many cases better than a non-performacne oriented shop's basic repair/rebuild factory heads will. But, as far as what I want them for, that means consistently fixing the too-tight guide clearances, replacing the springs, having an accurate 5 angle valve job done, fixing the cut on the valves, and having the decks cut properly. I also will hand blend and gasket match. Usually the total cost for a set of RPMS, ready to run to my standards, is $2500. I'll add Hughes is, in terms of machining quality, just as bad and Indy is worse...
I liken it to Denny's telling me how good their food is. It's food I don't have to cook and can eat without getting sick. So it's defiantely food, but as they sell it - not good food by my standards...lol.
 
just for your information: the helicoils are there to give the threads more strength. A thread in Aluminium is not as strong as a thread in steel or cast iron regarding tensile strength given the same length. This is plus in my opinion! i agree about the other issues.....not good.

Michael

+1...anything threaded into aluminum that has any kind of torque or stress on it should be helicoiled...far stronger than threaded aluminum.
 
+1...anything threaded into aluminum that has any kind of torque or stress on it should be helicoiled...far stronger than threaded aluminum.

+2 I find it amazing that people will turn down a part repaired in such away and think it garbage.
 
just for your information: the helicoils are there to give the threads more strength. A thread in Aluminium is not as strong as a thread in steel or cast iron regarding tensile strength given the same length. This is plus in my opinion! i agree about the other issues.....not good.

Michael


yes, i worded it wrong, it know about the helicoils, but some were diff diameter, and not all had the coils, some coils had to be removed and redone.
 
That's a race head. I'm sure the thought process is there is little but B1-BAs as an intermediate between the street type heads (RPMs, Indys,W2/W5) and the exotic race stuff (W9,Pseries). Note the choice of lifter angle, the threaded coolant passage points for additional coolant flow, and the 18-bolt potential. It's not a street head.
As far as aftermarket... They ALL are like that. They ALL need to be checked and corrected. Tehy will bolt on, and they will run in many cases better than a non-performacne oriented shop's basic repair/rebuild factory heads will. But, as far as what I want them for, that means consistently fixing the too-tight guide clearances, replacing the springs, having an accurate 5 angle valve job done, fixing the cut on the valves, and having the decks cut properly. I also will hand blend and gasket match. Usually the total cost for a set of RPMS, ready to run to my standards, is $2500. I'll add Hughes is, in terms of machining quality, just as bad and Indy is worse...
I liken it to Denny's telling me how good their food is. It's food I don't have to cook and can eat without getting sick. So it's defiantely food, but as they sell it - not good food by my standards...lol.


ive run all diff brands of aluminum heads from patriots, eddys, AFRs, Trickflows on chevy and fords (yes i said it!) and NEVER had anything that looks like this, i have worse pics somewhere.

like the rep said....they dont care about mopar quality control....chev is the number 1 seller...LOL
 
My Eddy heads didn't look anything like those when I opened the box up. Improved quailty control maybe? I got mine Jan/Feb 2011, when did you get yours 604 Racing?
 
-
Back
Top