**NEW Edelbrock Victor Series Small Block Heads**

[rumblefish360]

I actually had my hands on a Ritter block a few months back.

It doesn’t take any more work than any other Chrysler block I’ve had. What was done to that Ritter I do to any other block to prep it for making any real power.

That block is worth every penny, but just like any other aftermarket block you need to machine it.

And what exactly is that work? Exactly....
Described below by Matts440?

I have the ritter block and yellow rose is correct, its just the same as line hone, over boring, decking as any other block. Only thing different with the ritter block is you need to drill the cooling passages in the deck depending on the heads your going to use. I did upgrade to roller can bearings due to the rear cam bearing oil passage not being drilled unleashed the latest ones are now, my bought my block 3 yrs ago.

Thank you!

I have not heard of any issues with the Victors, other than an intake manifold that is as good and does not require a ton of work and one that has a 4500 base pad, I have heard that Edelbrock is supposed to come out with one { 4500} for the Super Victor intake.

Did t someone say earlier that there was an issue with a bolt hole or.......????

I’d like to go there (Ritter block/Victor heads) and do some stupid crazy stuff. Not just yet. The have to have it cleared in my head, then wallet.

Now I discover a oiling issue written above?

 

[Matts440]

And what exactly is that work? Exactly....
Described below by Matts440?

Thank you!

Did t someone say earlier that there was an issue with a bolt hole or.......????

I’d like to go there (Ritter block/Victor heads) and do some stupid crazy stuff. Not just yet. The have to have it cleared in my head, then wallet.

Now I discover a oiling issue written above?

Only oilong issue is you need to drill 1/2" holes in the can tunnel, maybe notch the oiling holes to line up a little better to the crank bearings, if going over 7k might open to the priority main oiling feed hole a little bigger, make sure the rear oil return hole clears the pan gasket and if you want to dipstick hole need that machined or do a side pan one like I did, and got a lokar dipstick and cut it to size for the amount of oil.

 

[RedB.]

And what exactly is that work? Exactly....
Described below by Matts440?

Thank you!

Did t someone say earlier that there was an issue with a bolt hole or.......????

I’d like to go there (Ritter block/Victor heads) and do some stupid crazy stuff. Not just yet. The have to have it cleared in my head, then wallet.

Now I discover a oiling issue written above?

I believe only if using 18 bolts, other wise no issues, they wanted the 18 bolts for boosted application's

 

[rumblefish360]

Only oilong issue is you need to drill 1/2" holes in the can tunnel, maybe notch the oiling holes to line up a little better to the crank bearings, if going over 7k might open to the priority main oiling feed hole a little bigger, make sure the rear oil return hole clears the pan gasket and if you want to dipstick hole need that machined or do a side pan one like I did, and got a lokar dipstick and cut it to size for the amount of oil.

View attachment 1715634997

A 1/2 hole in the cam tunnel?
Can you post a good picture of this?
Notch crank bearing oiling holes to match the bearings. These are the oil feed passages to the crank correct?
From the main feed, gotcha.
Possibly bigger for over 7K. Gotcha....

make sure the rear oil return hole clears the pan gasket

Can you post a picture of this area.

(Yes, oiling is a weak point with me.)

Thanks for helping me (and us the board) !

 

[rumblefish360]

I believe only if using 18 bolts, other wise no issues, they wanted the 18 bolts for boosted application's

Ahhhhh! I see, right, someone was asking about cylinder heads for this application. The Ritter block is 18 bolt capable or ready?

 

[yellow rose]

A 1/2 hole in the cam tunnel?
Can you post a good picture of this?
Notch crank bearing oiling holes to match the bearings. These are the oil feed passages to the crank correct?
From the main feed, gotcha.
Possibly bigger for over 7K. Gotcha....

Can you post a picture of this area.

(Yes, oiling is a weak point with me.)

Thanks for helping me (and us the board) !

The block I looked at had the oil feed hole in the block where is SHOULD be. So the oil hole in the bearing is off a bit. I wouldn’t grind the block to fit the bearing. I would make the bearing match the block.

 

[Matts440]

A 1/2 hole in the cam tunnel?
Can you post a good picture of this?
Notch crank bearing oiling holes to match the bearings. These are the oil feed passages to the crank correct?
From the main feed, gotcha.
Possibly bigger for over 7K. Gotcha....

Can you post a picture of this area.

(Yes, oiling is a weak point with me.)

Thanks for helping me (and us the board) !

Here a pic of the holes I did to the cam tunnel, the oil drain back is the hole to the left of the rear main cap, nice thing is was the block only needed very little opening to match the bearing oil feeds, course it would have been better to open the bearings to match instead. Sorry don't have a pic of the oil passages opened up.

 

[rumblefish360]

Thank you very much!

 

[A body]

Shiloh makes he's work and look what all he's done

Shiloh is running a 9.0 R3 now....

 

[RedB.]

Here a pic of the holes I did to the cam tunnel, the oil drain back is the hole to the left of the rear main cap, nice thing is was the block only needed very little opening to match the bearing oil feeds, course it would have been better to open the bearings to match instead. Sorry don't have a pic of the oil passages opened up.

View attachment 1715635294

Did Ritter block off the cam tunnel to keep oil from dripping on to the crank rotating assembly ? if you did not drill the holes into the cam tunnel where else would the oil drain, through the china wall ?

 

[j par]

I am curious if these heads have hit the market yet? They sell them supposedly in different configurations. I wonder what these flow straight from edelbrock in standard form and the difference in their ported versions. I would believe that you as normal would get more from them buying them Raw and having all the machining done by someone that knows what they are doing. Casting flaws I would think are the Normal Edelbrock signature on these heads as well.

http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/ddacbf6e#/ddacbf6e/16

View attachment 273844

Yup.... They hit..

 

[AUSA66]

Just wanted to write this here so everybody can see it at once. I worked as an engineer at Crower and now I work for Comp Cams here in Memphis as an engineer. Now Comp and Edelbrock have merged and soom most of Edelbrock will be moving From California to Olive Branch Mississippi. The point of all this info is what was written above

"You need to locate them using a head gasket and drill them from the bottom then spot face them from the top. It looks like there’s enough material to do this but I would confirm that with Edelbrock or sonic check. The last thing I would want to do is end up drilling into a water jacket. Since that combo was NA, I didn’t give it much more thought."

Soon I will be able to answer all these question as they are posted is the point of all this.

I drilled down from the top using a mill never run into any surprises had to recess the top of hole for long allen head bolt so it wouldn't hit the rocker bar make sure you try a head gasket on the block with a cosmetic I had 1mm sealing Kent Ritter disappeared when i sent a pic serious core shift

 

[Matts440]

Did Ritter block off the cam tunnel to keep oil from dripping on to the crank rotating assembly ? if you did not drill the holes into the cam tunnel where else would the oil drain, through the china wall ?

Yes to keep it off the crank but no openings in the China wall, its basically set up for dry sump. You can drill openings in the China wall if you want too, but most have found with a wet sump the rear drain hole and drilling the few holes in the tunnel work just as good.

 

[Matts440]

Shiloh is running a 9.0 R3 now....

Wow nice, when did he switch?

 

[yellow rose]

Wow nice, when did he switch?

There is a thread on MoParts about that R3 build. Somehow he found a good R3. IIRC, it seemed to me he did much of the same work to that as he did the Ritter.

I know there were some issues with the Ritter block when it was released. I believe they have been cleaned up now.

 

[RedB.]

I drilled down from the top using a mill never run into any surprises had to recess the top of hole for long allen head bolt so it wouldn't hit the rocker bar make sure you try a head gasket on the block with a cosmetic I had 1mm sealing Kent Ritter disappeared when i sent a pic serious core shift

When was the block purchased ? Latest castings out of Indiana { I believe } are supposed to be much improved,
hone, line hone, deck and then good to go.

 

[AUSA66]

It was the latest from Indiana.
All the machining was straight forward just the sealing on the cooling holes