**NEW Edelbrock Victor Series Small Block Heads**

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@evil66 How much to ship a pair of aluminum heads to you?
Approximately. I'm sure there is a little bit of a difference between NY & Cali.
 
anybody see that procharged small block built by BK Engines ? 1537hp @ 7800 and 1080 ftlbs I bet a set of these are involved .
 
@evil66 How much to ship a pair of aluminum heads to you?
Approximately. I'm sure there is a little bit of a difference between NY & Cali.

I havent got a firm price on shipping yet,but the real pain is the current exchange rate conversion then the duties and taxes on top that we have to pay on anything ovet $1000.
 
Thats the one but the post I got on Facebook didn't have any build details so I figured it had to be using these Victor heads to make that kind of power .
 
Facebook? What a shame I don't do Facebook. LMAO
All well.
 
theres a second gen barracuda group thats pretty good on there , I don't do the social networking thing but theres more and more resources appearing in there all the time .
 
I dont have Facebook either i just searched it and found it, it wanted me to log into it.
 
People get all hung up on the hype but it's not really something you have it's really just a big generalized version of fabo .
Most builders and suppliers use it now to showcase new builds and products , It's just another tool in the box .
 
In fact, you get a set in each box! Lol. Here's a close up of the inner head holes.
View attachment 1715019318
View attachment 1715019319
Each inner head bolt hole is intersected by an oil drain passage which is just flat strange. Here's the top side of the oil drain
View attachment 1715019320

Further examination reveals the fact that these threaded holes don't even line up with the inner head bolt locations so there must be some other reason why they're there.
Did you ever figure out how to install the top bolts . I'm looking to do it . I really could use them because I'm boosted .
 
Did you ever figure out how to install the top bolts . I'm looking to do it . I really could use them because I'm boosted .
You need to locate them using a head gasket and drill them from the bottom then spot face them from the top. It looks like there’s enough material to do this but I would confirm that with Edelbrock or sonic check. The last thing I would want to do is end up drilling into a water jacket. Since that combo was NA, I didn’t give it much more thought.
 
You need to locate them using a head gasket and drill them from the bottom then spot face them from the top. It looks like there’s enough material to do this but I would confirm that with Edelbrock or sonic check. The last thing I would want to do is end up drilling into a water jacket. Since that combo was NA, I didn’t give it much more thought.
Thank you for your time. I will do that , I just hope I can get an answer from them. If not I will check into sonic testing .
 
Just wanted to write this here so everybody can see it at once. I worked as an engineer at Crower and now I work for Comp Cams here in Memphis as an engineer. Now Comp and Edelbrock have merged and soom most of Edelbrock will be moving From California to Olive Branch Mississippi. The point of all this info is what was written above

"You need to locate them using a head gasket and drill them from the bottom then spot face them from the top. It looks like there’s enough material to do this but I would confirm that with Edelbrock or sonic check. The last thing I would want to do is end up drilling into a water jacket. Since that combo was NA, I didn’t give it much more thought."

Soon I will be able to answer all these question as they are posted is the point of all this.
 
The supposed Victor issues is what stopped me from a purchase. (And the Ritter block) Not having crossed a clear cut answer, leaves me confused and gun shy. The get race parts (and any aftermarket parts, for the most part) need modifications to even be close to working. IMO, It’s BS.

Thanks for the leg work.
 
The supposed Victor issues is what stopped me from a purchase. (And the Ritter block) Not having crossed a clear cut answer, leaves me confused and gun shy. The get race parts (and any aftermarket parts, for the most part) need modifications to even be close to working. IMO, It’s BS.

Thanks for the leg work.


I actually had my hands on a Ritter block a few months back.

It doesn’t take any more work than any other Chrysler block I’ve had. What was done to that Ritter I do to any other block to prep it for making any real power.

That block is worth every penny, but just like any other aftermarket block you need to machine it.
 
I have the ritter block and yellow rose is correct, its just the same as line hone, over boring, decking as any other block. Only thing different with the ritter block is you need to drill the cooling passages in the deck depending on the heads your going to use. I did upgrade to roller can bearings due to the rear cam bearing oil passage not being drilled unleashed the latest ones are now, my bought my block 3 yrs ago.
 
I have the ritter block and yellow rose is correct, its just the same as line hone, over boring, decking as any other block. Only thing different with the ritter block is you need to drill the cooling passages in the deck depending on the heads your going to use. I did upgrade to roller can bearings due to the rear cam bearing oil passage not being drilled unleashed the latest ones are now, my bought my block 3 yrs ago.


The first blocks were not a finished product as far as the oiling issues. etc. I am considering a Ritter block and it seems the latest castings are pretty good compared to 3 or 4 years ago,
YR did you assemble the Ritter engine that you machined ? How were the oil passages , water passages etc. ?
 
The first blocks were not a finished product as far as the oiling issues. etc. I am considering a Ritter block and it seems the latest castings are pretty good compared to 3 or 4 years ago,
YR did you assemble the Ritter engine that you machined ? How were the oil passages , water passages etc. ?

True the first blocks were not very good but those were like 5-6 years ago, Shiloh makes he's work and look what all he's done, showed him some pics of mine and even he said it looked a done better then his. Firing mine up today for the first time. I did have to notch the oil feed holes on the crank to align to the bearing but not that bad. I hear the new machine place Kent uses is a lot better then the old place like where I got mine from, but I was in so. Cal and had QMP do my machine work and check it all out, they know these blocks.
 
True the first blocks were not very good but those were like 5-6 years ago, Shiloh makes he's work and look what all he's done, showed him some pics of mine and even he said it looked a done better then his. Firing mine up today for the first time. I did have to notch the oil feed holes on the crank to align to the bearing but not that bad. I hear the new machine place Kent uses is a lot better then the old place like where I got mine from, but I was in so. Cal and had QMP do my machine work and check it all out, they know these blocks.


Great Matt, get that bad boy fired up and let us know how she sounds and everything goes , Best of Luck.
 
The supposed Victor issues is what stopped me from a purchase. (And the Ritter block) Not having crossed a clear cut answer, leaves me confused and gun shy. The get race parts (and any aftermarket parts, for the most part) need modifications to even be close to working. IMO, It’s BS.

Thanks for the leg work.
What are the “supposed Victor issues”?
 
What are the “supposed Victor issues”?


I have not heard of any issues with the Victors, other than an intake manifold that is as good and does not require a ton of work and one that has a 4500 base pad, I have heard that Edelbrock is supposed to come out with one { 4500} for the Super Victor intake.
 
The first blocks were not a finished product as far as the oiling issues. etc. I am considering a Ritter block and it seems the latest castings are pretty good compared to 3 or 4 years ago,
YR did you assemble the Ritter engine that you machined ? How were the oil passages , water passages etc. ?


I didn’t get to machine it. I went to a shop where the guy had one. I’ve never had my hands on one before...only pictures.

Every other block Ive done, regardless of the name on the block needs the lifter bores at least checked, the deck MUST be cut, the main line finished...all of that. I wouldn’t want a block that was finished to some nominal size. If rather they leave everything on the high side so I can finish it.

I want the rods to at the very least be at the minimum, and if it’s under minimum I’m happy. That way I get to set the clearance where I want it and it have to cut the cap and rod to get it smaller. Same with the pin end. I don’t want the rod manufacturer picking what size the pin end is.
 
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