@evil66 How much to ship a pair of aluminum heads to you?
Approximately. I'm sure there is a little bit of a difference between NY & Cali.
Did you ever figure out how to install the top bolts . I'm looking to do it . I really could use them because I'm boosted .In fact, you get a set in each box! Lol. Here's a close up of the inner head holes.
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Each inner head bolt hole is intersected by an oil drain passage which is just flat strange. Here's the top side of the oil drain
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Further examination reveals the fact that these threaded holes don't even line up with the inner head bolt locations so there must be some other reason why they're there.
You need to locate them using a head gasket and drill them from the bottom then spot face them from the top. It looks like there’s enough material to do this but I would confirm that with Edelbrock or sonic check. The last thing I would want to do is end up drilling into a water jacket. Since that combo was NA, I didn’t give it much more thought.Did you ever figure out how to install the top bolts . I'm looking to do it . I really could use them because I'm boosted .
Thank you for your time. I will do that , I just hope I can get an answer from them. If not I will check into sonic testing .You need to locate them using a head gasket and drill them from the bottom then spot face them from the top. It looks like there’s enough material to do this but I would confirm that with Edelbrock or sonic check. The last thing I would want to do is end up drilling into a water jacket. Since that combo was NA, I didn’t give it much more thought.
The supposed Victor issues is what stopped me from a purchase. (And the Ritter block) Not having crossed a clear cut answer, leaves me confused and gun shy. The get race parts (and any aftermarket parts, for the most part) need modifications to even be close to working. IMO, It’s BS.
Thanks for the leg work.
I have the ritter block and yellow rose is correct, its just the same as line hone, over boring, decking as any other block. Only thing different with the ritter block is you need to drill the cooling passages in the deck depending on the heads your going to use. I did upgrade to roller can bearings due to the rear cam bearing oil passage not being drilled unleashed the latest ones are now, my bought my block 3 yrs ago.
The first blocks were not a finished product as far as the oiling issues. etc. I am considering a Ritter block and it seems the latest castings are pretty good compared to 3 or 4 years ago,
YR did you assemble the Ritter engine that you machined ? How were the oil passages , water passages etc. ?
True the first blocks were not very good but those were like 5-6 years ago, Shiloh makes he's work and look what all he's done, showed him some pics of mine and even he said it looked a done better then his. Firing mine up today for the first time. I did have to notch the oil feed holes on the crank to align to the bearing but not that bad. I hear the new machine place Kent uses is a lot better then the old place like where I got mine from, but I was in so. Cal and had QMP do my machine work and check it all out, they know these blocks.
What are the “supposed Victor issues”?The supposed Victor issues is what stopped me from a purchase. (And the Ritter block) Not having crossed a clear cut answer, leaves me confused and gun shy. The get race parts (and any aftermarket parts, for the most part) need modifications to even be close to working. IMO, It’s BS.
Thanks for the leg work.
What are the “supposed Victor issues”?
The first blocks were not a finished product as far as the oiling issues. etc. I am considering a Ritter block and it seems the latest castings are pretty good compared to 3 or 4 years ago,
YR did you assemble the Ritter engine that you machined ? How were the oil passages , water passages etc. ?