New Engine won't turn over!! Help

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redfastback said:
sooooo.................i just put my timing chain on where the dots are at 6 and 12 (cam and crank, respectively). do i need to pull it apart again and reset it??? i have never heard of this before.
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Well before you take it apart rotate your assembly and watch your valves open and close. Make sure it is 180 out first. It also helps to leave the spark plugs out so you can look in and see where the pistons are at. You won't need to take it all apart just the time cover off and timing set off and valve covers.
 
Pardon me but this is carzy. The crank doesn't know compression stroke from exhaust stroke until the cam/valve train is connected. In other words , if the 2 dots are set in a staright line apart (12 and 12) dont take the chain off, just rotate the crank 1 full rev and see the dots go to straight line together
(6 and 12) . the only part that can be wrong is the distributer and thats easy enough to correct.
Those cams with several indexing holes can be confusing.
 
My "book" says put the timing set on with marks closest to each other or I guess you could say 6 & 12 then line up the distrib. gear at the front corner of the engine.ect ect ... Is it wrong????
 
Unless your engine is a big hp maker I would lose the electric fuel pump and just run a mechanical. There`s really no need for it and it sounds like it`s flooding the cylinders. You`ll have a fire hazard there if you don`t get the fuel problem worked out right away.
 
wyoduster said:
My "book" says put the timing set on with marks closest to each other or I guess you could say 6 & 12 then line up the distrib. gear at the front corner of the engine.ect ect ... Is it wrong????
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Not that the book is wrong but that old school was different setups for the differnt mfgrs. Like others have said, todays aftermarket parts might have any markings. The very best route is common sense. If the #1 piston is at the top, as the crank turns clock wise the cam should turn from level toward opening the #1 exhaust valve.
Today we have dual overhead cams and 3 or more marks to line up to various points instead of each other, and with a rubber belt no less. Get that wrong and break some stuff .
 
RedFish said:
Pardon me but this is carzy. The crank doesn't know compression stroke from exhaust stroke until the cam/valve train is connected. In other words , if the 2 dots are set in a staright line apart (12 and 12) dont take the chain off, just rotate the crank 1 full rev and see the dots go to straight line together
(6 and 12) . the only part that can be wrong is the distributer and thats easy enough to correct.
Those cams with several indexing holes can be confusing.
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100% correct! The crank rotates twice for every one rotation of the camshaft. You cannot install a cam 180 degrees off. If you mistakenly believe that you are on the compression stroke @ TDC with the dots @ 6 and 12, the distributor will be 180 off.
 
well both my cam and timing chain said to set the dots according to the engine manual. it did not say 12 and 12. i can understand on newer engines, but when did they change this on older engines, and if so, why is it not printed in the cam instructions? crank dot @ 12, cam dot @ 6 is tdc #1 compression but #6 firing, right?
 
ok, just got off the phone with comp cams. we are BOTH right. if you line up the dots at 6 and 12, then you rotate the engine once, you will be at 12 and 12. the tech said it is the same thing. the dot to dot is actually on the exhaust stroke of #1, but it is easier to line up the 2 dots when they are closer to each other to make sure your not off by 1 tooth.
 
Thats the thing. It wasn't changed on older engines its all about aftermarket parts and where they put their dots.
End of the day the dots can only be correct or X number of teeth wrong. Only the distributer can be exactly 180 degrees wrong.
Seems we've about hijacked this thread. Sorry
 
RedFish said:
Thats the thing. It wasn't changed on older engines its all about aftermarket parts and where they put their dots.
End of the day the dots can only be correct or X number of teeth wrong. Only the distributer can be exactly 180 degrees wrong.
Seems we've about hijacked this thread. Sorry
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you know, this tangent did take us off base here. i apologize for the hijack. we need to hear from the thread starter where things stand.
 
RedFish said:
Thats the thing. It wasn't changed on older engines its all about aftermarket parts and where they put their dots.
End of the day the dots can only be correct or X number of teeth wrong. Only the distributer can be exactly 180 degrees wrong.
Seems we've about hijacked this thread. Sorry
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You are correct but to some of us hobbiest something like that may not be quickly apparent, as it would be to someone with more experience. Sorry for hijack since i started it!
 
Mopardude said:
You are correct but to some of us hobbiest something like that may not be quickly apparent, as it would be to someone with more experience. Sorry for hijack since i started it!
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Hijack.... I'm glad this was brought up an resolved .This was part of the issue here. I have drained it, reoiled the cylinders, and am awaiting my preoiler from Jegs. Even though my wife doesn't think I listen, I do! Oh I will go out and hookup a ground to the engine tonight. As for the GAS flooding........I feel like such a dumb ***..I hooked up the gas line to the PCV line on the carb.. guess I should have read the instructions.....But its handled now.
Just a bit busy last night.This selling houses is a pain.always gota clean before showings...
 
Wyoduster, You are lucky you didn't do serious damage to your engine. Daredevil is spot on with the hydro lock thing. When those cylinders fill up there's no place for the gas to go. You may as well fill it up with concrete. Glad you found the problem too.

I took alot of interest in the thread when it got to the timing issue. I went through the debate too the first time I worked on a mopar smallblock.. It's all a matter of perception. I built a couple of chevy engines and when the dots are at 12 and six the number one cylinder is on the compression stroke. On mopar smallblocks it's on the Exhaust stroke. #6 is actually at TDC of the compression stroke. So if you lined up the marks at 12 and 6 just drop the distributor in to line up with #6 instead of #1 or you can rotate the engine one complete revolution and drop it at #1. Of course if the marks don't line up it's time to pull the gears and do it over. It is alot easier to line the marks up when they are closer together. You just have to make sure you have a good center line. Good luck with your engine.

You actually hooked up your gas line to the PCV not the PVC(positve crankcase ventilation) :)
 
wyoduster said:
Hijack.... I'm glad this was brought up an resolved .This was part of the issue here. I have drained it, reoiled the cylinders, and am awaiting my preoiler from Jegs. Even though my wife doesn't think I listen, I do! Oh I will go out and hookup a ground to the engine tonight. As for the GAS flooding........I feel like such a dumb ***..I hooked up the gas line to the PCV line on the carb.. guess I should have read the instructions.....But its handled now.
Just a bit busy last night.This selling houses is a pain.always gota clean before showings...
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Cool hope to see a post soon from you that she runs like a top and your having to much fun doing burnies. Good luck with selling the house. I been trying to sell mine for 6 months now. This market is brutal!
 
Just wanted to thank you all. At 7:02 this evening I hit the key and she came alive. WOW!! I did preoil it and hooked up the ground to the engine. Hit the key and it immediatly started. left it run a bit and here I am ready to have a glass of whiskey. \\:D/:drinkers:
 
wyoduster said:
Just wanted to thank you all. At 7:02 this evening I hit the key and she came alive. WOW!! I did preoil it and hooked up the ground to the engine. Hit the key and it immediatly started. left it run a bit and here I am ready to have a glass of whiskey. \\:D/:drinkers:
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Congratulations, it`s a good feeling huh?
 
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