New in here need some advice SB 360 Cam selection

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Buying dougs or tti is more about the FIT... Thought it was pretty obvious in my original post. They all perform about the same.

Hookers and the copies SUCK, thin flanges, hang low and love to burn plug wires.

pick your parts, pay your money!
 
Buying dougs or tti is more about the FIT... Thought it was pretty obvious in my original post. They all perform about the same.

Hookers and the copies SUCK, thin flanges, hang low and love to burn plug wires.

pick your parts, pay your money!
Got my Dougs D453's based on the recommendations here, high quality, stout through and through. Worth the extra dough for sure
 
My cheap copies work fine have sealed fine have clearance to everything fine they're just fine the car does wheelies and no scratches on the bottom I just don't drive like a jack wheel on the streets and that is my results with my application take it for my two cents.
 
Oh and let's not think that I'm saying that Doug's aren't 10 times Superior. I would absolutely love a pair myself. I definitely want that said.
 
Robert
IMO, you're asking too much. Your focus is too broad for a 727.And also too broad for a 340.
The biggest hitch is the 3.21 gears.
If you are talking about beating them in a dragrace to 90, and then shutting down, then;
You can gear your car to hit the top of the powerband at 90mph, and call it done; all with the current combo. This would take 4.56s or so, to hit 92mph@5600 with 26.4 tires and with 5% slip in the TC.
This will get you off the line with 42% more TM (torque multiplication). And you will be ramming thru the gears way faster, putting down more average horsepower in each gear. And the 268/276/114 OEM cam peaks fairly early, perhaps at 5000, but the top of the curve is broad and flat asa a ,well just broad. So knowing that 5600 is about the right trap rpm, you will need to outshift at perhaps 6000/6200 in the lower gears, to satisfy the trans gear ratios. This means the valve springs better go there, with at least a couple of hundred rpm in reserve.
This also means that all engine mods are optional.
And it means cruising 65=3771@zero-slip. See what I mean?

Another option is to chose the biggest hi-way gear you are willing to put up with, and then tune the engine to work with that. Unfortunately, Ima thinking 3.73s will be your preferred max; 65=3100@zero slip. That means 90 will be 4264, and no matter what cam is in it,third gear is in the dog-house. 4264 is barely at the torque peak. You will need a much bigger engine to embarrass those guys.Ima thinking a 416 would get you close. See what I mean?

Another option is to just supercharge your current combo.

And finally, you could just build a fun car and gear it to hit 65 at the top of second, and stay legal.Let the Volvos go.Oh wait, that's 4.56s again.
Ok make that hitting 65 at the top of first, wound up tight to say 6800. That would be, magically, 3.21s,lol. To trap at 65=6800 will require a power peak at about 6000, so Ima thinking, that's gonna take about 292* of intake duration, and that is gonna want a 3500TC. See what I mean?

But if you had a 416..... now your talking. the 3.21s can stay, and a 2800TC will do it. Of course you might need a wagonload of cash, to upgrade the chassis to handle that. See what I mean?.

But if you are talking about out-running them over a long distance, that is a whole nuther matter.
 
J Par... Since you seemed to disagree with my comment, maybe you should brush up on reading comprehension a bit.

Headers, yep spend more for the better ones because of fit. Plenty in here have smashed the hooker cheap **** copies, even when not driving like a jack wagon or whatever. Gutters on dark streets kill them even if you are driving normal, they can get killed. Simple observations over 40+ years of mopars that many agree with. The low hangers suck *** if driving on the streets. We don't always drive on roadways we are familiar with. For an extra $200 over the summits and 150 over the hooker POS, he can get painted dougs... money well spent.

Ignition, don't need to spend much on my suggestion... In fact under $10 if you are handy and resourceful. Leave a stock distributor in that engine = bad running POS at idle. Did you learn nothing from your own experience?

My suggestion, stay away from the disagree button! :)
 
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Since you seemed to disagree with my comment, maybe you should brush up on reading comprehension a bit.

Headers, yep spend more for the better ones because of fit. Plenty in here have smashed the hooker cheap **** copies, even when not driving like a jack wagon or whatever. Gutters on dark streets kill them even if you are driving normal, they can get killed. Simple observations over 40+ years of mopars that many agree with. The low hangers suck *** if driving on the streets. We don't always drive on roadways we are familiar with. For an extra $200 he can get painted dougs... money well spent.

Ignition, don't need to spend much on my suggestion... In fact under $10 if you are handy and resourceful.

My suggestion, stay away from the disagree button! :)


Sorry, hit wrong button; I actually totally agree. Must be getting old.
Yes I totally agree, and with everything you said......
I have the TTIs. They were new in 99, and they're still on there. The flanges have never leaked and never required tightening between engine-outs. In fact. I am only on the second set of gaskets. And I can hammer over speed bumps with impunity. To be fair, I did have to repair some leaks at the top of the merges after 4 years of 4-season driving. And again several years later. And they are leaking again. They were as purchased nickle-coated.
And have had ZERO problems with wires burning or plug access.And only very minor problems with fitment.
So my apologies....

I fixed it.
 
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Sorry, hit wrong button; I actually totally agree. Must be getting old.
Yes I totally agree, and with everything you said......
I have the TTIs. They were new in 99, and they're still on there. The flanges have never leaked and never required tightening between engine-outs. In fact. I am only on the second set of gaskets. And I can hammer over speed bumps with impunity. To be fair, I did have to repair some leaks at the top of the merges after 4 years of 4-season driving. And again several years later. And they are leaking again. They were as purchased nickle-coated.
And have had ZERO problems with wires burning or plug access.And only very minor problems with fitment.
So my apologies....

I fixed it.

Feel your pain yesterday I accidentally disliked a cute comment about rusty's new dog lol, lucky i noticed :)
 
Sorry, hit wrong button; I actually totally agree. Must be getting old.
Yes I totally agree, and with everything you said......
I have the TTIs. They were new in 99, and they're still on there. The flanges have never leaked and never required tightening between engine-outs. In fact. I am only on the second set of gaskets. And I can hammer over speed bumps with impunity. To be fair, I did have to repair some leaks at the top of the merges after 4 years of 4-season driving. And again several years later. And they are leaking again. They were as purchased nickle-coated.
And have had ZERO problems with wires burning or plug access.And only very minor problems with fitment.
So my apologies....

I fixed it.

huh :) Nothing I wrote was directed at you.
 
I suggest to you crackedback that you do whatever you want to do as far as disagreeing or not disagreeing with my post liking or not liking I appreciate your two cents just like I gave mine and I'll stand by it. My headers cheap Summit crap have been on my car for over 3 years 3 Motors and no trouble at all.
I hope you're hearing that I agree with you there cheap junk crap cheap junk crap maybe I'll say it again cheap junk crap overall that they work just fine LOL
I'll replace them with some great Doug's headers one when I have the money and I find it necessary. $350 for dougs headers? That's a good price.
Absolutely no difference in idle between my bone stock distributor and ignition to my MSD distributor with supposed double spark under 3000 RPM.
Both of them idle kind of terrible just the way I like it on the stroker LOL.
On the 318 it purrs like a kitten at idle, or a kitten with a bad cough LOL chop chop, chop-chop, chop-chop......
I believe the original posts is looking for bang for buck what's going to get them where they want to go the cheapest? I can hardly wait for the original poster to jump in here and tell us how easy it is to get parts in Sweden? There's a likelihood here that absolutely everything he does probably wants to be a great jump forward and not just a little more convenient.




J Par... Since you seemed to disagree with my comment, maybe you should brush up on reading comprehension a bit.

Headers, yep spend more for the better ones because of fit. Plenty in here have smashed the hooker cheap **** copies, even when not driving like a jack wagon or whatever. Gutters on dark streets kill them even if you are driving normal, they can get killed. Simple observations over 40+ years of mopars that many agree with. The low hangers suck *** if driving on the streets. We don't always drive on roadways we are familiar with. For an extra $200 over the summits and 150 over the hooker POS, he can get painted dougs... money well spent.

Ignition, don't need to spend much on my suggestion... In fact under $10 if you are handy and resourceful. Leave a stock distributor in that engine = bad running POS at idle. Did you learn nothing from your own experience?

My suggestion, stay away from the disagree button! :)
 
I know this is a late response, if you have not already done so read this.

RustyRatRod's Guide To Hot Rod Bliss

Headers and gears would be my vote. Also, do not discount tuning your suspension in addition to the engine.

And finally, welcome from California. :)
 
Oh yeah that reminds me welcome to Oregon! Where all the Californians are coming too... :poke:

I know this is a late response, if you have not already done so read this.

RustyRatRod's Guide To Hot Rod Bliss

Headers and gears would be my vote. Also, do not discount tuning your suspension in addition to the engine.

And finally, welcome from California. :)
 
Robert,

Here is another thread with relevant info.

my Low dollar 318 hop-up project

Another thing that I didn't say much about is order of operations for upgrades.

First do the stuff that makes you stick to the road.
Second do the stuff that makes the car stop.
Third the go-fast stuff.
Last, body and paint.

Have fun.

J par, I ain't gonna touch that outside of N&P. :)
 
Hi thanks a lot guys for all the response i get,
You guys need to understand that the parts in Sweden are not that cheap like in the states and my wallet is not that thick so of course i´m limited.
To buy a set of dougs or tti here in sweden, they go for around dougs (raw steel) 930 dollars and tti for like 1162 dollars that's is what i have to pay for them in Sweden with all chargers,customs taxes etc. so don't forget that and you can imagine what other parts will cost! its expensive :BangHead: :eek::(

I fully understand what you saying AJ/FormS, so my first step gonna be a pair of hooker headers, and i already purchase them.
second step will be to sort the timing out

i have come around with that i´m even do some WOT pulls from 55mph+, of course red light racing is fun but i even like to slam it on the highways to.

i´m thinking about get set of 3.91 gear, but anyways i cant fit bigger tires than i already have (235/60-15). so my traction will be limited anyways.

so maybe next year i plan to get a new camshaft or 3.91 gear i don't know yet.

i will give you the compression reading first before i order any camshaft.

:thankyou:

Best regards
 
Headers and gears. But with a caveat
Headers will for sure wake that 340 up. The Low-C version of the 340 was a little soft out of the gate, so TM and stall will be your friend.
But if you don't have the suspension to make it hook, then stoplight racing will not benefit from gears, or headers.
Then you say your 3.21s are spinning 3000 at hiway speeds now, and you're not interested in anything higher. So that puts even more limitations on stoplight racing.
Lemme throw some numbers at you. Suppose you're current TC flashes to 2500 off the line. And suppose your 340 makes 200ft lb at that 2500. And let's suppose you are adamant about keeping the 3.21s. OK.
So 200 x 3.21 x 2.45 x 1.7say in the TC=2728ftlbs. This means when you nail it, you will be putting down 2728ftlbs to the road. So those 235s will instantly light up. Then immediately the TC will start dropping back on the TM to perhaps 1.1 at the 60ft; so now your rpm has risen to say 3500@22 mph, and the engine torque has climbed to 270, so now this is how that looks;270 x 2.45x3.21x1.1in the TC =2336ftlbs. So the road torque has dropped to 2728/2336=85.6%. But the tires keep on spinning cuz their threshold was maybe 1600.
Lets take her up to 4500. By now the engine torque has climbed to well past the factory torque peak, and fallen down the other side of the curve, so let's guess to 300ftlbs. And the TC has fallen to it's lowest TM of maybe 1.05. So now at 44 mph, your engine is putting down; 300 x 2.45x3.21 x 1.05TC=2477ftlbs, and the tires are still spinning.
Now imagine installing 4.10s. All the numbers will jump by 4.10/3.21= plus27.7%. And all the mphs will drop that same 27.7%. As you can imagine,how much quicker will your car really be? Well since the tires are spinning, Ima thinking not very much.
In this exercise, all the numbers I used are guesswork, and it doesn't matter, cuz the tires are spinning!
So for stoplight work, the very first thing you have to take care of is the traction issue. More power, more gear, more TC,or more torque, more anything will NOT help you until the traction issue is solved.
Stated another way, if you are spinning now, it's no wonder Volvos are driving around you.

As to the big end, here gear ratio is almost critical. If you are stuck at the wrong rpm when the opportunity comes up, you are sunk. And with a 340 this is critical. The 268* cam will powerpeak at about 5000/5200 in that low-C engine, so you cannot stray too far from that rpm at the big end. With 3.21s this is about 82 mph at the top of second. By 5680/93.5mph, the power has fallen off very significantly. Any gear ratio bigger than 3.21s that forces you to shift into third will just make it worse. In fact, the next smaller ratio, 2.94s would give you about 10% more mph, but the road horsepower would also drop by the same amount. For example, say your 340 was a TQ engine with headers, and was putting out 310hp@5200. Then with 27"tires, and 3.21s she would be putting down 310 x 3.21 x 1.45 x 1.05TC= 1515 roadhorsepower @85.6mph. Now lets swap out the 3.21s for 2.94s . Now she will be putting out 310 x 2.94x1.45x1.05=1388road horsepower at 93.5mph.
And increasing the rpms of the 3.21 equipped combo to hit 93.5, we get 5680rpm. and by this rpm one might expect the power to have fallen off to 270say, and the numbers look like this 270 x 3.21x1.45x1.05=1320
So in this case, at 93.5mph, 2.94s have the edge.
A higher number rear gear, will let you blast thru the gears faster, but if you end up in the wrong place on the power curve, for what you are wanting to do, then they're no help at all.
Let's try the above exercise with 4.11s.
At the power peak of 5200 and in second, the rpm will be 67mph, so we are gonna have to shift. And that gets us about 97 mph @ 5200 in third. And the roadHP will be 310 x 4.11x1.00x1.05=1338.
So then,at 85.6mph again, the rpm will be just 4590, and the power might be 280; so then we get 280 x4.11x1x1.05=1208, or just 80% of what she was putting down earlier (shown in purple above) with the 3.21s . So in this case 4.11s are a disaster, posting just 1208/1515= 79.7%.

So, for a streeter,it all boils down to selecting the right gear for the job at hand. Or bait the comers to work in your rpm territory. That's how I did it back in highschool. My 1970 Swinger 340 4-gear 3.55s was not the quickest nor the fastest car around.It barely managed 98 mph in the qtr at 14.4 seconds (on street tires). But in second and occasionally in third she could put the hurt on a lot of the big boys. I just baited them into my zone. The zone where that little 340 really sang. But I stayed outta first gear, cuz it spun all the way through, and on the shift spun most of the way thru second as well. That was the first thing I fixed. Then in went the 4.11s,lol. After that,I was all but untouchable ......................................up to about 80.
So when one of the other boys wanted to race my stock engine Swinger, I made the rules. And the rules were always in my favor. Rolling start,and to 80mph; no exceptions. If I had to get into 4th I was pretty sure it was over for me. 80 in third, was already well past the engines happy place.

So to recap, with a 340;
if you're spinning;you ain't winning.
If you're in the wrong gear, or don't have a right one, you will lose.
 
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Please tell me you copy and paste all this or at least voice command it?
Headers and gears. But with a caveat
Headers will for sure wake that 340 up. The Low-C version of the 340 was a little soft out of the gate, so TM and stall will be your friend.
But if you don't have the suspension to make it hook, then stoplight racing will not benefit from gears, or headers.
Then you say your 3.21s are spinning 3000 at hiway speeds now, and you're not interested in anything higher. So that puts even more limitations on stoplight racing.
Lemme throw some numbers at you. Suppose you're current TC flashes to 2500 off the line. And suppose your 340 makes 200ft lb at that 2500. And let's suppose you are adamant about keeping the 3.21s. OK.
So 200 x 3.21 x 2.45 x 1.7say in the TC=2728ftlbs. This means when you nail it, you will be putting down 2728ftlbs to the road. So those 235s will instantly light up. Then immediately the TC will start dropping back on the TM to perhaps 1.1 at the 60ft; so now your rpm has risen to say 3500@22 mph, and the engine torque has climbed to 270, so now this is how that looks;270 x 2.45x3.21x1.1in the TC =2336ftlbs. So the road torque has dropped to 2728/2336=85.6%. But the tires keep on spinning cuz their threshold was maybe 1600.
Lets take her up to 4500. By now the engine torque has climbed to well past the factory torque peak, and fallen down the other side of the curve, so let's guess to 300ftlbs. And the TC has fallen to it's lowest TM of maybe 1.05. So now at 44 mph, your engine is putting down; 300 x 2.45x3.21 x 1.05TC=2477ftlbs, and the tires are still spinning.
Now imagine installing 4.10s. All the numbers will jump by 4.10/3.21= plus27.7%. And all the mphs will drop that same 27.7%. As you can imagine,how much quicker will your car really be? Well since the tires are spinning, Ima thinking not very much.
In this exercise, all the numbers I used are guesswork, and it doesn't matter, cuz the tires are spinning!
So for stoplight work, the very first thing you have to take care of is the traction issue. More power, more gear, more TC,or more torque, more anything will NOT help you until the traction issue is solved.
Stated another way, if you are spinning now, it's no wonder Volvos are driving around you.

As to the big end, here gear ratio is almost critical. If you are stuck at the wrong rpm when the opportunity comes up, you are sunk. And with a 340 this is critical. The 268* cam will powerpeak at about 5000/5200 in that low-C engine, so you cannot stray too far from that rpm at the big end. With 3.21s this is about 82 mph at the top of second. By 5680/93.5mph, the power has fallen off very significantly. Any gear ratio bigger than 3.21s that forces you to shift into third will just make it worse. In fact, the next smaller ratio, 2.94s would give you about 10% more mph, but the road horsepower would also drop by the same amount. For example, say your 340 was a TQ engine with headers, and was putting out 310hp@5200. Then with 27"tires, and 3.21s she would be putting down 310 x 3.21 x 1.45 x 1.05TC= 1515 roadhorsepower @85.6mph. Now lets swap out the 3.21s for 2.94s . Now she will be putting out 310 x 2.94x1.45x1.05=1388road horsepower at 93.5mph.
And increasing the rpms of the 3.21 equipped combo to hit 93.5, we get 5680rpm. and by this rpm one might expect the power to have fallen off to 270say, and the numbers look like this 270 x 3.21x1.45x1.05=1320
So in this case, at 93.5mph, 2.94s have the edge.
A higher number rear gear, will let you blast thru the gears faster, but if you end up in the wrong place on the power curve, for what you are wanting to do, then they're no help at all.
Let's try the above exercise with 4.11s.
At the power peak of 5200 and in second, the rpm will be 67mph, so we are gonna have to shift. And that gets us about 97 mph @ 5200 in third. And the roadHP will be 310 x 4.11x1.00x1.05=1338.
So then,at 85.6mph again, the rpm will be just 4590, and the power might be 280; so then we get 280 x4.11x1x1.05=1208, or just 80% of what she was putting down earlier (shown in purple above) with the 3.21s . So in this case 4.11s are a disaster, posting just 1208/1515= 79.7%.

So, for a streeter,it all boils down to selecting the right gear for the job at hand. Or bait the comers to work in your rpm territory. That's how I did it back in highschool. My 1970 Swinger 340 4-gear 3.55s was not the quickest nor the fastest car around.It barely managed 98 mph in the qtr at 14.4 seconds (on street tires). But in second and occasionally in third she could put the hurt on a lot of the big boys. I just baited them into my zone. The zone where that little 340 really sang. But I stayed outta first gear, cuz it spun all the way through, and on the shift spun most of the way thru second as well. That was the first thing I fixed. Then in went the 4.11s,lol. After that,I was all but untouchable ......................................up to about 80.
So when one of the other boys wanted to race my stock engine Swinger, I made the rules. And the rules were always in my favor. Rolling start,and to 80mph; no exceptions. If I had to get into 4th I was pretty sure it was over for me. 80 in third, was already well past the engines happy place.
 
Well I remember I passed typing in high school with two fingers and I had to stay after school on the last day of school when everybody was throwing papers in the air and having fun in the hallways I was typing a two fingered report proving to the teacher that I at least deserve a D minus for trying and I got it LOL but this is all voice commanded from here forward notice I can put any kind of punctuation by just saying.! Or? LOL sometimes you'll see a lack of punctuation just because I'm trying to voice command it and get my point out. Anyways that is a lot to read and then sometimes it gets to be too much and then I end up not reading it all. Sometimes I just put a few thoughts out there so people will get all crazy and dispute it and then I finish my thoughts and start another post. Anyways this is the way to voice command it's the only way to fly if you're going to do all that in your one or two finger typer like myself also. But sometimes I noticed a lot of times you'll be giving the same advice in a lengthy deal that's why I was wondering if you just copied it and pasted it maybe some of this advice that you repeat so afternoon would be done easier that way? Anyways I love ya and Keep On Keepin On.

Copy? Paste? voice command? lol, no, that chit just flows from aging brain matter to one-finger typing. The old-fashioned way.
 
Wholesale a lot of times I need to go back and reread what I voice commanded so it doesn't say something like gay instead of great or something LOL
 
Hello guys long time no see, a litte update from last time, has been awhile.
Headers is now on with full 2.5" exhaust with Apple Racing mufflers produced in norway design in Sweden:D was a big difference.

Have som photos taken with inspectioncamera in some of the cylinders.

stock piston or what is it? Inverted Dome ?

Now to the compression test here´s the numbers

Compression test in PSI

Slighty hot engine and 2 cycles per cylinder.


Driverside:

Cyl 7 - 149 psi

Cyl 5 – 149 psi

Cyl 3 – 148,4 psi

Cyl 1 – 149 psi

Passengerside:

Cyl 8 – 149 psi

Cyl 6 – 148.3 psi

Cyl 4 – 150 psi

Cyl 2 – 149 psi

Take care, thanks for all the support.

Best regards
Rob

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OP.... this is all based upon the idea that the stock type pistons were put into the engine when it was rebuilt. The recommendations will change if this is not true. Please take some cranking compression readings ASAP and let us know what they are; we can make a guess on the piston types from the compression readings and the recommendations will be better.

If the stock type pistons were used in the engine rebuild, then I agree with the recommendation of the VooDoo cam; this is a low compression engine and higher lift and less duration are good to keep the dynamic compression ratio as high as you can.

OP, when you change cams, I would pull the heads and put in Mr Gakset 1121G head gaskets. These are thinner and will help the compression ratio. This will be good for the stock torque converter. If your engine has the standard Felpro head gaskets, these are thick and the engine is losing some compression. The fact that your heads have been milled 1 mm is good.

I would second the recommendation of a Voodoo cam; I would go with the 10200702. And some new valve springs. With the higher lift, the OP is going to have to look at the clearance between the valve retainers and the tops of the valve guides and seals.

I would also install this cam with an ICL of 106 degrees. This will put the dynamic compression ratio at around 7.25, with the Mr Gasket 1121G head gaskets. Higher would better, but that would require some engine mods.

But we really need the cranking compression readings first.


Hi there, alright with you?, i have did a compression test even with photos taken from some of the cylinders. It took some time but now its done :D Even got som headers on.
See my last post

Take care
 
Hey good to hear from you! Glad the exhaust worked out; it wil lmake a very noticeable difference all through the RPM range.

Those indeed look like stock early 360 pistons.... dished tops with around 8 to 9 cc's of dish volume. The small notches are probably the orientation notches on the pistons.... they should be towards the front of the engine. The arcs you have drawn that look like eyebrows are probably light reflections from the cylinder walls.... they are too small for piston eyebrows. So this is a low compression engine, even with the heads milled 1 mm. Maybe 8.3 or 8.4:1.

Thanks for taking the compression readings. The compression readings are high for that engine, even with the heads milled that much. So I suspect this is more like a stock 2 bbl 360 cam. Or it is a 340 cam and is installed with quite few degrees of cam advance. Or the compression gauge is in error.
 
Hey good to hear from you! Glad the exhaust worked out; it wil lmake a very noticeable difference all through the RPM range.

Those indeed look like stock early 360 pistons.... dished tops with around 8 to 9 cc's of dish volume. The small notches are probably the orientation notches on the pistons.... they should be towards the front of the engine. The arcs you have drawn that look like eyebrows are probably light reflections from the cylinder walls.... they are too small for piston eyebrows. So this is a low compression engine, even with the heads milled 1 mm. Maybe 8.3 or 8.4:1.

Thanks for taking the compression readings. The compression readings are high for that engine, even with the heads milled that much. So I suspect this is more like a stock 2 bbl 360 cam. Or it is a 340 cam and is installed with quite few degrees of cam advance. Or the compression gauge is in error.

Hi thx alot for a fast reply, it is a 340 cam in it what i know, i have 15 hg in vacuum at idle at 800rpm and it runs really good at the higher rpms. The compression gauge was new!
I have installed new valvesprings to. (Pac racing) hughes engine 1110 was a bit of difference from the stock 360 that compressed with both hands:eek:

ok so that means that my camshaft selection is smaller more "Narrow" then if that compression was up a bit.

another question if would gain to change the heads to pro comp "rpm" knock offs
The Heads has has 64cc chambers with Howard springs, Competition Products 21-4N valves, flows intake :255,4 cfm at .500 lift Exhaust: 194cfm at .500 lift
They ar controlled and installed of Swedish Company called PPM Racing
The valveseats are done by them to.

or is a piston change better for more compression and perhaps cam?

or screw all the above and buy 3,91 gear in my 8 1 / 4 SG and just drive it :D

Take Care.
 
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