New noise from a new engine

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6T9QDA

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I have about 200 miles on a fresh 318 that I assembled myself, so there's that. About fifty miles ago, it developed a ticking from the rear of the engine that wasn't there from the initial start. I can maybe convince myself that it's coming from the distributor, but I'm not for sure. It's a slightly softer sound than a tap-tap, more of a snick-snick, and I can feel slightly more vibration in the cap than the body. The distributor is a Chinese electronic replacement. With the cap off, the rotor can be turned a few degrees clockwise before springing back, and I assume that's a normal function of the centrifugal advance. There's also about 1/8" of shaft vertical end-play; is that normal or could it be the source of the noise? The sound is almost always there, but inconsistent; sometimes almost completely fading away, sometimes a little louder. My first thought was exhaust leak, but now I don't think so.

It's an '86 318 with a factory roller valvetrain, the cam reground to something only slightly more agressive than stock.

Even before this, I had planned to give HH a shout about a factory distributor with a more appropriate advance curve, but until then do you have any thoughts about this noise? I've been pleased that the engine sealed well with no leaks, so I don't want to break into it unless I really have to. Thanks for any ideas.

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Flex plate / converter bolts.
Exhaust leak is still a possibility. Get a long piece of pipe...or I use a 30"(?) Extension to put to my ear and poke around to narrow down the source.

Keep an eye out for moving parts though!!
 
Yeah, I thought about the flexplate bolts. Gotta crawl under there and check 'em.
 
Get yourself a stethoscope with a probe and start listening.
 
A long metal through hsndle screwdriver or pry bar can serve as a poor man's stethascope
 
If the dist endplay/movement is truly 1/8", then that is excessive & should be reduced. The thrust is upwards, so look for places of contact in the dist cap/rotor etc.
 
Snick snick snick? Sounds like an exhaust leak. :)
It's always an exhaust leak right? Really.... it's not a Mopar if it doesn't have an exhaust leak or two snicking away
 
Did a weight slip out from under the T bar slot while cap was off? 1/8" may be enough to Sorry T bar probably not correct description.
 
I have about 200 miles on a fresh 318 that I assembled myself, so there's that. About fifty miles ago, it developed a ticking from the rear of the engine that wasn't there from the initial start. I can maybe convince myself that it's coming from the distributor, but I'm not for sure. It's a slightly softer sound than a tap-tap, more of a snick-snick, and I can feel slightly more vibration in the cap than the body. The distributor is a Chinese electronic replacement. With the cap off, the rotor can be turned a few degrees clockwise before springing back, and I assume that's a normal function of the centrifugal advance. There's also about 1/8" of shaft vertical end-play; is that normal or could it be the source of the noise? The sound is almost always there, but inconsistent; sometimes almost completely fading away, sometimes a little louder. My first thought was exhaust leak, but now I don't think so.

It's an '86 318 with a factory roller valvetrain, the cam reground to something only slightly more agressive than stock.

Even before this, I had planned to give HH a shout about a factory distributor with a more appropriate advance curve, but until then do you have any thoughts about this noise? I've been pleased that the engine sealed well with no leaks, so I don't want to break into it unless I really have to. Thanks for any ideas.

View attachment 1716318134
Converter bolts.. first thing to check, i just had it happen to me...
 
Also make sure the gap for the reluctor in the distributor is set properly (0.008"). If it's hitting, you may still get spark but have a tick for however many "fins" hit the magnet. Just a thought.
 
I blue Loctite mine. Been there as well.
i locetited mine also, but i used bolts i thought were thin enough and they just barely touched... ended up buying the super thin ARP 12 points
 
For exhaust leaks a few feet of 3/8 hose, one end to your ear, other end move around exhaust. You can pin point any leak or confirm no leaks accurately.
 
Not sure if you have headers, but i just put these on after having a gasket leak and i'm a believer.. things work great
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To check for exhaust leaks, stuff the tailpipe with shop-cloths, and have someone wearing gloves hold the cloths in ( as best possible ) while you start and run the engine.
Quickly walk one side of vehicle to other, exhaust leaks will be very evident, and those tailpipe cloths will be getting very hot .
Loose spark plugs .
 
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I just pulled a 1990 360 and was surprised how thin the torque converter bolt heads were .
 
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