New Quaker State Oil w/ Zinc
- Thread starter Done Swimmin
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I wouldn’t put “Quaker Sludge” in my worst enemy’s car. I bought a 1970 ford maverick from my dad for a first car. He was a fanatic about changing oil. When I tore the straight six 300 engine apart to modify it the inside was all waxed up. That crap is junk.
Agreed. I bought an 86 Dodge pickup from my FIL, he religiously used QS, the inside of that engine was pure gunk.
STP was an additive that goes back decades, when oils were not as good as they are today.
In my opinion, it is foolish to add additives to todays oils. They have lots of 'packages' added such as detergents, dispersants....& ZDDP & you risk upsetting the balance of those additives.
In my opinion, it is foolish to add additives to todays oils. They have lots of 'packages' added such as detergents, dispersants....& ZDDP & you risk upsetting the balance of those additives.
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
I think I read recently that modern oils are "saturated" with additives so if you try to add more, they don't dissolve and eventually end up separating out and collecting at the bottom of the sump.
On my older stock-cammed, stock-valvespring flat tappet engines I just run Valvoline synthetic with a quart of VR1. Duster currently has a 5.9L Mag short block with a roller cam and I run Valvoline 5W-40 "European Car Formula" in that. The previous 360 had a Lunati Voodoo HFT cam and I ran Penn Grade in that. For a hot rod-type car with flat-tappet cam that isn't driven every day the more expensive Penn Grade, Schaeffers etc is worth it to me but necessary? Probably not lol.
If you guys want to see some interesting oil tests check out Project Farm on YouTube. He refuses sponsors for any of his videos and has a pretty decent setup where he tests lubricity, pour point at different temps and other things.
While I have my preferences I have to agree with @318willrun , all motor oils these days are good and as long as it has ZDDP for your flat-tappet engine you'll be good. Also keep in mind many current OHC engines have flat followers/tappets but also spec certain oils for the same reasons our old pushrod V8s can get trashed from the wrong oil.
Cledus
Well-Known Member
I have found 15-50w mobile 1 available cheap by the 5 quart jug has 1300ppm zinc. I know lots of folks don't like synthetics but i have been using it on my fresh 318 build after the break in with good luck and no leaks as of yet
I've heard the exact opposite by a famous Pontiac engine builder Nunzi Romano Brooklyn NY.
He built the engine in my '74 Trans Am 455 SD in the mid 80s. These are kind of loose he told me to use Quaker State 20-50 I said why that brand. He said he's never seen a motor come apart that used its whole life that was dirty on the inside. He also said do not use racing oil for the street and I now know why.
It does not have detergent if any at all. We've got to have the old stuff my friend talked me into putting Valvoline VR1 in there 20-50 in it. It didn't go a couple of weeks before it was dirty again and I was wondering why it was so damn thin it's full synthetic. I've got to get that crap out of there quick.
We're having trouble getting the all we want and they've changed it on us. The old Quaker was Pennsylvania crude which was green and thick and that's what I need. Full synthetics good if you got a new style engine with tight clearances it's the exact opposite what we need for a muscle cars. I saw Walmart had Quaker 20-50 conventional called all mileage. And I'm thinking most all conventional analysis at least a synthetic blend I may be okay with it I may not. I want a real conventional viscosity 20-50 with detergent and if it does not have zinc I'll get some. I wish my motor Builder was still around to talk to him he's retired.
But I realized pretty quick that Valvoline racing all is a 500 Mi oil for racing Way Too Thin and gets Way Dirty way too fast. I'm thinking about getting the Penn1. I know what's the green Pennsylvania crude but it's also recycled which most oil is now.
I'm also looking at the GTX trying to figure out if it's true 20-50 viscosity I think most are trying to hood wink us.
I now believe full synthetic will harm an old engine that needs High viscosity.
Mobile 1 is way too thin for a muscle car.
It's pretty good for a new car. Remember we do not need racing off for the street they don't have detergent or much of any. And if you go full synthetic racing all you're really going backwards. I would imagine these Blends are okay but I've got to know it's thick enough.
Cledus
Well-Known Member
Just because it looks thin cold Is not a bad thing. Start up flow is a good thing.
How does conventional oil look at 220 degrees I'm willing to bet it's pretty thin
How does conventional oil look at 220 degrees I'm willing to bet it's pretty thin
@Dannyd
I spent 32 years in the automotive lube business. I just counted eight untrue statements in your two posts. I don't have time to go through them one by one. But that's OK, I'm not going to try to change what you believe, just try to help you get you what you want.
Quaker State has mostly moved on from obsolete products. I wrote to their tech email address when they introduced the All Mileage oil a year and a half ago. I asked the about the zinc and phosphorous content. They didn't reply.
From what you say, this is what you want. Or as close as you're going to get at a reasonable price. Good luck!
I spent 32 years in the automotive lube business. I just counted eight untrue statements in your two posts. I don't have time to go through them one by one. But that's OK, I'm not going to try to change what you believe, just try to help you get you what you want.
Quaker State has mostly moved on from obsolete products. I wrote to their tech email address when they introduced the All Mileage oil a year and a half ago. I asked the about the zinc and phosphorous content. They didn't reply.
From what you say, this is what you want. Or as close as you're going to get at a reasonable price. Good luck!
I would hope that Quaker State has improved, I wouldn't put it in anything after the poor slugging results that I had with it. My old Omni and Neon were horrible under the valve cover, found that out by mistake.
I decided to use the regular conventional GTX 2050 with trick flow sink additive because that oil right there is a blend. I made the mistake of putting VR1 in my old engine I don't think it hurt it. But it immediately found a couple of leaks because it's full synthetic. It also does not have detergent so it got dirty within 2 weeks. Not only do we need zinc but we need a detergent oil. The famous Pontiac engine builder told me back in the '80s for my SD455 to run Quaker State 20-50 but not racing oil.
So most people with old engines now is making a mistake running anything that says racing on it that's 500 miles plus most of that is synthetic now. Haven't seen any place I could get QT Defy at. And I've been out of game for 30 years because I stored the car.
Also on the VR one I was either burning it leaking it or both because it was going down. Fully synthetic is a mistake for old high performance engines for the street.
I found out they quit putting zinc and all in 1994 because it hurts catalytic converters.
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Not only is it a big deal for us old performance engines to have the old Pennsylvania mineral style crude but it's a big deal to have the detergents. I looked at All Mileage I know it's a blend. And I'm no expert you know that but I've studied about 40 hours the last couple weeks about viscosities. I'm now know I'm looking for conventional with detergent and it's hard to find because most of conventional now is like a blend. It's a blend and it's got additives for seals and stuff which I don't trust.@Dannyd
I spent 32 years in the automotive lube business. I just counted eight untrue statements in your two posts. I don't have time to go through them one by one. But that's OK, I'm not going to try to change what you believe, just try to help you get you what you want.
Quaker State has mostly moved on from obsolete products. I wrote to their tech email address when they introduced the All Mileage oil a year and a half ago. I asked the about the zinc and phosphorous content. They didn't reply.
From what you say, this is what you want. Or as close as you're going to get at a reasonable price. Good luck!
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Someone had a bad experience with Quaker while I didn't. We all know most of oil companies have been bought out so now Quaker is not the Pennsylvania green mineral crude oil. I sure wish I could get a hold of Nunzi but he's way retired in Brooklyn NY.
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I know I've already stated this but back in the '80s Quaker State was top of the line. Famous engine builder told me he's never taking a motor apart that's been running quicker it's whole life and been dirty. He built me a 500 horsepower engine and told me to run Quaker 20-50 but not racing oil. My friend talked me in to puttingin VR1 in my engine which was totally wrong and also it got dirty both times within 2 weeks. For me I'm going to find real conventional that's got detergent in it ( most commercial is a synthetic blend now) and then I will ad an additive. I'm just going off experience and what I've been reading. I'm no expert or claim to be but I care about my engine.
the regular 20-50
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