New Small Block Headers

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Rat Bastid said:
1. No real header will fit power steering. Ever.
2. What Hooker or Hedman header part number are you talking about? I don’t care what name is on the box, a 1.875 tube will hang lower than a 1.625 tube. It has to.
3. I don’t do step headers and a 1.750 tube is good for a pretty much dead stock 318-340-360. You want to make power you use a 1.875 tube.

If you are buying your headers from a parts store or some off the shelf junk from Summit or Jegs you are wasting power. It looks like they make a great header. The price doesn’t bother me. The dumb step design does. If they made a straight 1.875 tube header that would excite me.
Click to expand...

thanks for offering up that info.
I am going to swap out the Doug’s on my stroker at some point. 1 5/8..not good!
Wanting ground clearance, and a bigger tube, it seems the only option without hacking my inner fenders( not an option) is the TTI 1 7/8 header .
I just wondered how the step header these guys offer would compare to the TTI
Now that I see the step is well more than the other one, price wise, it’s pretty much ruled me out anyway, unfortunately.
If it was 1800 compared to almost 1100 for the TTI, it might be more viable….stainless etc, etc
 
Dan the man said:
That's WAY to much for a set of headers, I don't care how good they look. They won't perform any better than a $700 set of headers which by the way is pretty much the price for good headers for a mopar
Click to expand...


So you’ve tested that and you know that for a fact or are you talking out of your hat?
 
B3422w5 said:
I would guess 99.9% of guys looking at a high end header like this don’t have power steering, so the fact they don’t work with power steering isn’t a factor
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I dunno about that, I think a lot of the higher dollar pro-touring builds are probably in a power range that a larger diameter header would be beneficial and most of those guys aren't going to run manual steering.

Now granted, a lot of those builds are using modern engines too.

Rat Bastid said:
1. No real header will fit power steering. Ever.
Click to expand...

I dunno about that either. The Borgeson power steering box isn't significantly larger than a manual steering box for these cars.

Now, getting a "real" header to fit around a factory power steering box is a different story.

smokindust said:
They don’t hang low at at all. A lot more clearance than any header I’ve used on a small block.
Click to expand...

And what headers have you used on a small block? Because if the tubes are under the steering link they have less clearance than Doug's or TTI long tubes.
 
Dan the man said:
That's WAY to much for a set of headers, I don't care how good they look. They won't perform any better than a $700 set of headers which by the way is pretty much the price for good headers for a mopar
Click to expand...

I have a 700-800 dollar header on my smallblock( Doug’s) they are costing me a bunch of power. Nice headers, but not made for very healthy power levels.
The TTI’s ( 1 7/8) will support more power, but they are close to 1100 and not exactly optimal…IE..I would rather run the Headman 1 7/8 race header( will make substantially more power) but require hacking your inner fenders.
So most anything currently available has some warts. I know, have looked at and considered every one of them
 
72bluNblu said:
I dunno about that, I think a lot of the higher dollar pro-touring builds are probably in a power range that a larger diameter header would be beneficial and most of those guys aren't going to run manual steering.

Now granted, a lot of those builds are using modern engines too.



I dunno about that either. The Borgeson power steering box isn't significantly larger than a manual steering box for these cars.

Now, getting a "real" header to fit around a factory power steering box is a different story.

your talking about the .01 % of builds I mentioned. Not many high dollar builds these days are LA oriented. And Doug’s and TTI’s will cover 99% of the few of those that exist( and have power steering.
Way more high buck gen2/ gen 3 type stuff these days getting built.
Or, guys are doing turbo stuff which takes this header talk off the table



And what headers have you used on a small block? Because if the tubes are under the steering link they have less clearance than Doug's or TTI long tubes.
Click to expand...
 
Rat Bastid said:
1. No real header will fit power steering. Ever.
2. What Hooker or Hedman header part number are you talking about? I don’t care what name is on the box, a 1.875 tube will hang lower than a 1.625 tube. It has to.
3. I don’t do step headers and a 1.750 tube is good for a pretty much dead stock 318-340-360. You want to make power you use a 1.875 tube.

If you are buying your headers from a parts store or some off the shelf junk from Summit or Jegs you are wasting power. It looks like they make a great header. The price doesn’t bother me. The dumb step design does. If they made a straight 1.875 tube header that would excite me.
Click to expand...

you didn't answer the question. you disagreed with my post saying no power steering and they look to hang low like any of the cheap junk headers. you pretty much reinforced what i typed and you disagreed with.
 
That’s why I built my own headers. Cheap and made so I am take them off and on if 5 minutes. 1-3/4” stepped to 1-7/8”.

641AB400-FF0D-47FD-9537-890D1B86CAC6.jpeg
 
B3422w5 said:
I have a 700-800 dollar header on my smallblock( Doug’s) they are costing me a bunch of power. Nice headers, but not made for very healthy power levels.
The TTI’s ( 1 7/8) will support more power, but they are close to 1100 and not exactly optimal…IE..I would rather run the Headman 1 7/8 race header( will make substantially more power) but require hacking your inner fenders.
So most anything currently available has some warts. I know, have looked at and considered every one of them
Click to expand...
If they are costing you power, then they are probably too small. You can't compare 1 5/8" headers to 1 7/8" that's not a fair comparison. Doug's makes a great header as does tti. You have to consider the entire exhaust system not just the headers themselves.
 
Dan the man said:
That's WAY to much for a set of headers, I don't care how good they look. They won't perform any better than a $700 set of headers which by the way is pretty much the price for good headers for a mopar
Click to expand...
A header is a header, to big or to small of a header is what affects your power. Collector size and length have a important part in header design too
 
B3422w5 said:
I have a 700-800 dollar header on my smallblock( Doug’s) they are costing me a bunch of power. Nice headers, but not made for very healthy power levels.
The TTI’s ( 1 7/8) will support more power, but they are close to 1100 and not exactly optimal…IE..I would rather run the Headman 1 7/8 race header( will make substantially more power) but require hacking your inner fenders.
So most anything currently available has some warts. I know, have looked at and considered every one of them
Click to expand...

It doesn't have to be a hack, they can be cut neatly.
 
abodyjoe said:
you didn't answer the question. you disagreed with my post saying no power steering and they look to hang low like any of the cheap junk headers. you pretty much reinforced what i typed and you disagreed with.
Click to expand...


I’ll try it again. This **** is why I stopped posting here.

There is not a QUALITY header that will fit a stock chassis A body Chrysler that uses power steering. That is a simple fact. So your premise is wrong. You are trying to compare junk headers that take power steering with headers that actually make power and fit. Simple as that. If you want to compare junk to what the OP posted thats on you.

Define “low hanging”. I spelled it out. When the primary tubes get bigger there is LESS ROOM. So there has to be LESS GROUND CLEARANCE. Doesn’t seem hard to grasp to me. Plus the collectors get bigger so you lose some clearance. Again, it comes back to using junk headers verses a header that fit and works.

To bring it to a point, you can’t compare junk headers to a functional header. That’s what you are trying to do. I don’t compromise on headers any more than I absolutely have to. Plus I hate power steering. My car doesn’t sit like a 4 wheel drive and I’d bet I run a deeper pan and bigger headers than most on here and neither are smashed or dented.

I seriously doubt you’ve seen in person a set of functional headers. I was at the drag strip yesterday and the couple of sets of TTI 1.875 headers I looked at were not impressive. And some consider those expensive. For what they are they are way overpriced. In fact, call TTI and ask them how long their primary tubes are tandem they will tell you they have no idea!! That says they bent up tubes to make them fit the chassis and did ZERO research and development to make that junk header.
 
Dan the man said:
A header is a header, to big or to small of a header is what affects your power. Collector size and length have a important part in header design too
Click to expand...


Again, I’m asking you how do you know a header is a header? Have you tested it? You are posting information that is absolutely, verifiably wrong like you know. A header isn’t a header.
 
Dan the man said:
If they are costing you power, then they are probably too small. You can't compare 1 5/8" headers to 1 7/8" that's not a fair comparison. Doug's makes a great header as does tti. You have to consider the entire exhaust system not just the headers themselves.
Click to expand...

duh, I get it. Doug’s doesn’t make bigger ones. These were fine on my old motor.
TTI does make bigger ones, but they are far from optimal power wise. They are a compromise, I find it hard to justify them, but…not much else out there that fits my needs…good power, ground clearance, trailer loading, etc, etc
 
B3422w5 said:
duh, I get it. Doug’s doesn’t make bigger ones. These were fine on my old motor.
TTI does make bigger ones, but they are far from optimal power wise. They are a compromise, I find it hard to justify them, but…not much else out there that fits my needs…good power, ground clearance, trailer loading, etc, etc
Click to expand...


You just summed it all up. In cars like these there are compromises. The end user has to define what compromises they can accept. You outlined yours and that makes it hard to get big tube headers on the car. So it is what it is. And there is nothing wrong with that because most of us here don’t need to turn on win lights to make a house payment.
 
Hooker "Super Comps" don't go below the center link and work with both PS and the factory starter.

...and they've been around forever.

...but cost the same as Doug's and TTI.
 
Rat Bastid said:
You just summed it all up. In cars like these there are compromises. The end user has to define what compromises they can accept. You outlined yours and that makes it hard to get big tube headers on the car. So it is what it is. And there is nothing wrong with that because most of us here don’t need to turn on win lights to make a house payment.
Click to expand...
This ^^. The owner of the car has to decide on many compromises when putting together a car. Headers are among them. I understand both ends of the spectrum. If it's right for the owner, then it's the right header (or manifold).
 
YY1 said:
Hooker "Super Comps" don't go below the center link and work with both PS and the factory starter.

...and they've been around forever.

...but cost the same as Doug's and TTI.
Click to expand...

Uh, on an A-body the super comps DO go below the steering link, and have a removable slip tube. On B/E bodies they stay above the steering link.
 
Anybody have a picture of how big the hole is for the Headman 75140 in an A body. Think just a single tube goes outside on these?
 
Rat Bastid said:
You just summed it all up. In cars like these there are compromises. The end user has to define what compromises they can accept. You outlined yours and that makes it hard to get big tube headers on the car. So it is what it is. And there is nothing wrong with that because most of us here don’t need to turn on win lights to make a house payment.
Click to expand...

you got that right..lol
I would have been evicted and sleeping in a culvert a long time ago
 
Rat Bastid said:
I’ll try it again. This **** is why I stopped posting here.

There is not a QUALITY header that will fit a stock chassis A body Chrysler that uses power steering. That is a simple fact. So your premise is wrong. You are trying to compare junk headers that take power steering with headers that actually make power and fit. Simple as that. If you want to compare junk to what the OP posted thats on you.

Define “low hanging”. I spelled it out. When the primary tubes get bigger there is LESS ROOM. So there has to be LESS GROUND CLEARANCE. Doesn’t seem hard to grasp to me. Plus the collectors get bigger so you lose some clearance. Again, it comes back to using junk headers verses a header that fit and works.

To bring it to a point, you can’t compare junk headers to a functional header. That’s what you are trying to do. I don’t compromise on headers any more than I absolutely have to. Plus I hate power steering. My car doesn’t sit like a 4 wheel drive and I’d bet I run a deeper pan and bigger headers than most on here and neither are smashed or dented.

I seriously doubt you’ve seen in person a set of functional headers. I was at the drag strip yesterday and the couple of sets of TTI 1.875 headers I looked at were not impressive. And some consider those expensive. For what they are they are way overpriced. In fact, call TTI and ask them how long their primary tubes are tandem they will tell you they have no idea!! That says they bent up tubes to make them fit the chassis and did ZERO research and development to make that junk header.
Click to expand...

and again. you just agreed with what i said. but you disagreed with it. lol. jackass.

do they or do they not fit with power steering??

are they designed to go under everything like the cheap headers on the market? yes/no ?
 
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