Newb Oil Filter Question

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TXOval

TXOval

340 stroked to 416
Joined
Jul 23, 2022
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Location
Conroe, Texas
Alright guys, don’t beat me up too bad as this is my first Mopar.

My current 340 has the 90 degree oil filter adapter on it.

If I want to remove it and install the filter directly to the block is there another “straight” adapter I have to buy or can i install a 3/4-16 nipple into the block and thread the filter right onto the block?

Or do I have to buy/install this

Mancini Racing Oil Filter Adapter Kit
 
Leave it on there. There is no reason to use the block mounted oil filter, especially if it forces you to use a short filter.

Decent 340 exhaust manifolds require that right angle adapter. IIRC even the performance 273’s got the right angle adapter.

Any good set of headers will require a right angle adapter.

The short filter is a far greater restriction than the right angle adapter.

Chrysler knew the short filter was a bigger restriction. Keep it and use the longest filter you can fit. You engine will appreciate it.
 
TXOval said:
Alright guys, don’t beat me up too bad as this is my first Mopar.

My current 340 has the 90 degree oil filter adapter on it.

If I want to remove it and install the filter directly to the block is there another “straight” adapter I have to buy or can i install a 3/4-16 nipple into the block and thread the filter right onto the block?

Or do I have to buy/install this

Mancini Racing Oil Filter Adapter Kit
Click to expand...
In short, you will need the Mancini kit if you want to get rid of the 90° adapter.
 
I don't understand "why" the OP wants to remove the 90*, which uses a one quart filter and replace it with the straight filter system which uses a "smaller" filter. Plus, with the short filter it seems there is more heat soak from the exhaust system cooking the oil. Just my .02
 
Newbomb Turk said:
Any good set of headers will require a right angle adapter.

The short filter is a far greater restriction than the right angle adapter.
Click to expand...
TTI headers do not require the adapter and they're as good as it gets.

The short filter is not a restriction and works just fine. Most of us never put enough miles on our cars to the point the shorter filter stop doing their job.
 
Demonracer said:
I don't understand "why" the OP wants to remove the 90*, which uses a one quart filter and replace it with the straight filter system which uses a "smaller" filter. Plus, with the short filter it seems there is more heat soak from the exhaust system cooking the oil. Just my .02
Click to expand...
No matter what the filter is near the exhaust whether it's screwed into the block or screwed into an adapter. Adapters tend to leak hence all the threads regarding them.
 
Thank you everyone. I do have TTI headers. The original 90 degree adapter is giving me fits with leaks.

I bought the Canton Racing adapter with additional holes so hopefully that helps with flow. It also seems like a more robust design than the original stamp Sheetmetal piece.

I’m hoping I do not have to remove the headers to remove the 90 adapter.
 
1971 CY Dodge Dart said:
TTI headers do not require the adapter and they're as good as it gets.

The short filter is not a restriction and works just fine. Most of us never put enough miles on our cars to the point the shorter filter stop doing their job.
Click to expand...


So a 10-12 PSI loss across the filter is good with you? Not me. That’s a big restriction before the oil gets to the engine.

Like I said, no GOOD header will take a long filter without that adapter. Even your over rated TTI header can’t take a LONG filter without that adapter.
 
1971 CY Dodge Dart said:
Okay now you're just making up stuff to fit your narrative. Got an data to back up your claims?
Click to expand...


What would it take to satisfy your ignorance on the issue? And by ignorance I mean you don’t know what you don’t know? Tell me what you need for proof. Maybe I have it, maybe I’m just lying. The probability of the latter is near zero.
 
Asking to understand

You’re saying if I run the WIX51085 vs a 51068 I will lose 10psi of oil pressure?

Or 51515 vs 51085
 
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The way I see it, pushing hot oil thru more surface area at a higher rpm is only a good thing. if your motor will never see 5500 or higher, I don’t think it matters.

the oil filter restricts oil flow. Once you hit a certain pressure the bypass valve in the filter will kick in, and the motor will get unfiltered oil. Same with the oil pump. The spring is set at a given psi, once it hits that, volume is reduced to achieve that psi.

I added a 90 adapter to my 360 to make sure the motor gets filter oil at what ever volume/pressure it needs.
 
It's a wonder the new car engines last over 50,000 miles with the small filters they use now. Just sayin!
 
TXOval said:
Asking to understand

You’re saying if I run the WIX51085 vs a 51068 I will lose 10psi of oil pressure?

Or 51515 vs 51085
Click to expand...

The 51515 verses whatever short filter you want to test.

If you want to see it for yourself you just need two gauges. One in the port at the back of the intake and one in the port on the end of the right angle adapter. Start with whatever filter you have on there and read the pressure difference between the two gauges. Then switch to the other filter and do the same. The one with the least pressure drop across the filter is the least restrictive.

Its easier on a dyno because you can data log the pressure curves and compare the two but you can do it in the car.

To find the difference between the right angle adapter and the filter bolted to the block would be a bit more difficult to do. There is nowhere to put a gauge down at the filter when it’s screwed to the block. That is where a dyno (or an in car data logger) would make it easy. You could test with a short and long filter on the block and a short and long filter on the right angle adapter and then you’d know exactly what the best way to mount the filter is.

Of course, using dyno time to sort that out can get expensive. And I have not done the latter test since I don’t ever screw the filter to the block. Maybe when I get independently wealthy I can spend some money on dyno testing and check out both ways. Until then, I use the right angle adapter and the longest filter that will fit in there.
 
toolmanmike said:
It's a wonder the new car engines last over 50,000 miles with the small filters they use now. Just sayin!
Click to expand...

Its a wonder Chrysler went to the trouble to make the adapter up for performance engines.

Oil flow (in GPM) is much lower on new cars for a multitude of reasons. You can be cheap if you want to, but the OP has the adapter and saving money on a shorter (or smaller or both) oil filter is an OEM penny pinching accounting issue. It’s certainly not a performance issue.
 
With Super Sniper I can log oil pressure but it will only be at one location, back of intake.

I appreciate the replies and experience.

The 51085 cost more than 51515, so it’s not about money:)
 
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TXOval said:
With Super Sniper I can log oil pressure but it will only be at one location, back of intake.

I appreciate the replies and experience.
Click to expand...

One port to log is good enough. Just log the pressure with whatever filter you have on there now and then change to the other filter and log that. Then compare the numbers. That’s pretty slick. You’d at least be able to verify the pressure drop across two different length filters.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
Its a wonder Chrysler went to the trouble to make the adapter up for performance engines.

Oil flow (in GPM) is much lower on new cars for a multitude of reasons. You can be cheap if you want to, but the OP has the adapter and saving money on a shorter (or smaller or both) oil filter is an OEM penny pinching accounting issue. It’s certainly not a performance issue.
Click to expand...
They thought they needed it. I have 90's on both of mine and what a pain in the azz. They really aren't needed unless there is a clearance issue.

100_4779.JPG
 
After you make your decision, wrap a garbage bag around your headers when you do your filter change, to keep the oil off of the tubes. I had an oil leakage problem with mine too, make sure the the adapter casting is flat going up against the block. My casting was warped a pinch. Then I siliconed it and let it sit for a couple of days. Make sure that you have the proper gaskets.
 
toolmanmike said:
They thought they needed it. I have 90's on both of mine and what a pain in the azz. They really aren't needed unless there is a clearance issue.

View attachment 1716159211
Click to expand...


That’s what I’m saying. If you can get a long filter on there without the adapter then go for it. Most headers and all the good headers require a right angle adapter to get any filter on there.
 
TXOval said:
Thank you everyone. I do have TTI headers. The original 90 degree adapter is giving me fits with leaks.

I bought the Canton Racing adapter with additional holes so hopefully that helps with flow. It also seems like a more robust design than the original stamp Sheetmetal piece.

I’m hoping I do not have to remove the headers to remove the 90 adapter.
Click to expand...

The Canton adaptor is a bit thicker than the factory plate, so keep that in mind when buying your filter.

I use a K&N PS-2004 on my 340 with the Canton plate and Doug's D453's, it clears everything just fine.

Amazon product ASIN B0067ECW72
That filter is also used on 2000's Dodge Ram 2500's with a 360, and even a 496 Chevy big block that comes in some buses.

I have also used this filter, although with the Canton adaptor plate it's a pretty tight fit to the Doug's. Not sure how that would work with TTI's, might be fine, but I don't have a set of TTI's

Mopar Performance P4452890 Mopar Performance Oil Filters | Summit Racing
Mopar44134 said:
The way I see it, pushing hot oil thru more surface area at a higher rpm is only a good thing. if your motor will never see 5500 or higher, I don’t think it matters.

the oil filter restricts oil flow. Once you hit a certain pressure the bypass valve in the filter will kick in, and the motor will get unfiltered oil. Same with the oil pump. The spring is set at a given psi, once it hits that, volume is reduced to achieve that psi.

I added a 90 adapter to my 360 to make sure the motor gets filter oil at what ever volume/pressure it needs.
Click to expand...

Yeah, no. The spring in the filter is not a bypass valve that bypasses the filter at a certain engine oil pressure. Sorry. It's there to bypass the oil filter if the filter plugs up, not if the oil pressure in the engine gets too high. Two different things. The bypass in the filter is set up on a pressure differential between the engine oil pressure and the pressure in the filter, and it closes if the filter plugs up to keep oil circulating through the engine.

There's a pressure relief valve in the oil pump that opens past a certain pressure, but that doesn't bypass the oil filter.

Newbomb Turk said:
That’s what I’m saying. If you can get a long filter on there without the adapter then go for it. Most headers and all the good headers require a right angle adapter to get any filter on there.
Click to expand...

Both the TTI's and the Doug's headers for small block mopars work just fine without the 90° adaptor, and those are pretty much the best headers available for these cars unless you're having a set custom made. As for the rest of your comments, yeah, the oil filter I linked is a factory size for MUCH bigger engines than the OP's 340.

Something to note as well, just because an oil filter has a larger body does not necessarily mean that it has more filter material. There are larger, cheaper filters that have less filter media than the one I linked to. Bigger doesn't always mean better, the amount of filter material is what you have to pay attention to and it's not alway a direct link to the external filter size.
 
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