No more ethanol free gas in Canada?

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hotrod swinger

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Just heard about this the other day, what a drag.

Are there any reliable additives available to counteract the problems that ethanol causes in carbs?
 
Just heard about this the other day, what a drag.

Are there any reliable additives available to counteract the problems that ethanol causes in carbs?
What percentage of ethanol are they going with? We've had it here in the states (CT) for quite some time. I believe we are 10%. Never had an issue
 
What problems do you have with ethanol oxygenated gasoline.
 
The best additive is driving the car. If it doesn’t sit, you won’t have any problems.
This right here ^^
Don't let ethanol gas sit for more than a couple weeks in any carbureted engine. If you fill up and know you're not going to drive for 2-3 weeks put some Sea-Foam or Sta-Bil in it and you'll be fine
 
I can only buy gas with ethanol, 10%, nothing else is available. My Barracuda isn't finished yet, but for my '61 300G 413, I've been adding TC-W3 marine 2 stroke oil every fill up for at least 10 years, and the engine has never ran better.. The formula is 1 oz./5 gallons gas. My 300G can sit for 7-8 months without running, and it starts and runs great after a long slumber. Wal Mart carries TC-W3 oil.
 
Been a year now since JT's latest change. Last Summer you could still get E free premium at any marina, but we'll have to see where that goes this Summer.
 
Best "additive" ! Reminds me, I need my 500 gallon tank filled...
100LLtank 025.jpg
 
What problems do you have with ethanol oxygenated gasoline

My stock 67 dart 273 2bbl when it got in the 90s out and I would sit in a fast food line it would boil the fuel in the fuel lines. Everything would be fine until I got back on the street and leave from the first stoplight.

A few hundred feet down the road it would act like it ran out of gas. Lift the pedal and lightly add the gas back in and it would recover.

One day it was happening so I got it back home and opened the hood to find the clear (yes I know I know, and it's not clear any longer) fuel filter was visibility almost empty.

I let it idle for 20 to 30 minutes and watched the filter rapidly fill with fuel then slowly drain, till it was almost empty, at which point the engine rpm would start to drop off the woosh it would refill and the rpm would pick up. (I have video)

I put a pressure gauge on it with a T and watched the pressure between the fuel filter and the carb.

Full filter 6 lbs ( just a number as I don't recall the actual number)

Filter 1/2 full 6 lbs

Filter 1/4 full 6 lbs

Filter empty 6 lbs

Rpm dropping off and the pressure starts dropping off, till woosh, it refills and I'm back at 6 lbs

I might have video of that too!

Fast forward....

I ran the tank down to near empty filled it up with alcohol free gas, did that 2 to 3 times so now it is all alcohol free.

It has never happened again.

I did not rerout the lines, add a return, or insulate anything.

All I did was remove the alcohol from my fuel


I have on several 95 to 100 deg days, after driving 30 minutes in city driving, i let the car idle in gear for 10 or more minutes.

Then...

Replicate the circumstances where it would die and not a single time has it happened again. It's been 3 or 4 years now.


All I can think of is the fuel was boiling in the lines, the float was high enough to not need more fuel. The gasses would go to the highest point (the filter and carb) but still at 6 lbs untill the bowl was empty enough to need more fuel. Once the needle opened the gasses were released allowing liquid fuel to rush into the filter and carb.
 
My ancient 360 has always been very happy with 87E10. But I designed it to be.
However, as indicated in above comments, she's not particularly excited to fire up on two-week old gas. Nor on last fall's gas either, even if was stabilized.
So what I have been doing is keeping a small bottle of stabilized gas under the hood, that is mixed ~10% with two-cycle oil. The 710 size lasts all summer.
So then, after an extended park-time, I just slosh a couple of teaspoons down the intake, advance the timing about 9 additional degrees with my handy-dandy, dash-mounted, dial-back, ignition-timing module, open the throttle to about 20/30%, and hit it! It works like a champ. I keep the rpm up, long enough to burn the puddle out of the AirGap, then leave it alone for a a minute or two if it's cold out (no choke Holley DP), then back out of the carport. After a few minutes of gentle driving, which gets me up to hiway speed, the alloy heads are warmed up, and I can dial the timing back to "normal", and she is WOT ready.
I live in the country tho, and so, its either; 12 or18 or25 minutes of hiway to one of my usual destinations. When I get to one of those, I will will fill-up with fresh fuel, and when I get home, I will slosh some fuel stabilizer into the tank. And I always have a 5-gallon can of fresh, stabilized gas in my garage, on rotation, if I need it..
So then the alcoholized fuel costs me nothing, but adjustment to; the start-up procedure, and to the gas-filling routine. That started in 1999 IIRC, at the time 87E10 came to town, which is why my engine has alloy heads, which is to run up to 195 psi cylinder pressure, which is to make BB torque, on that almost universally hated skunkpiss. I gotta tellya, I saved a lotta lotta money burning thatchit for so many years; and 93 in the Eighth is nothing to thumb yur nose at.
I never had a fuel-boiling issue, but I admit that I did have a long-standing engine overheat issue in the First summer that I could not cure. So I tore the engine down, and opened up the top ring gap, and the second just a tad, and honed the cylinders out about another half-thou for skirt clearance, and I painted my alloy heads with a good thick coat; which took care of all that.
This allowed me to reset the minimum coolant temp to 205*F, and run a Thermostatically controlled clutch fan.
But the underhood was still a blast-furnace, and I felt real bad for my 3/8 fuel-line system.
So I cut a hole in my hood and put the air-filter on top of the hood, sealing the underside to the carb; and I ran my fuel-line direct from mechanical-pump to carb, installing a big EFI metal-cased filter, back at the tank. And
I just gotta say, with the following changes now possible, I think the engine picked up a couple of hundred horsepower . Well maybe not quite that much, lol; but
I retarded the cam-timing to straight up 110* losing a bit of that crazy pressure, and
the MJs went from 68/76, to 72/80s.
And the Power-Timing went down 2>4 degrees without any loss of seat-of-the-pants power; and
the Idle-Timing could now be set down to 5*, if/when I needed it to be.... which gave me a ground-speed of less than ~3.7mph, which with 3.55s, and a 3.09-low 4-speed, at 500 rpm, made parading possible ............................. all of that, still on that almost universally-hated 87E10.
I drove that car, with it's 11.3Scr 367, as a DD for over 4 years, never giving the engine any special treatment, and raking in phenomenal fuel-economy; while
all my DA-friends were crying and moaning about detonation, and that universally hated alcoholized gas. Ok so they weren't friends, just acquaintances, that were unwilling to think outside the universally accepted Hot-Rodding box. To their everlasting shame.
Oh, I gotta tell ya, in that first year of introduction, we got two grades of gas 87 and later, 89, and no non-alcoholized gas. If you wanted better, you had to have a friend down at the crop-dusters shack, or cough up for a 200 liter drum; and a place to store it. Eventually we got 93 octane for the marine crowd. But my 367 ran that universally hated alcoholized 87E10, full-time,
Oh, and, my Barracuda, with a cam just one size bigger, and the pressure reduced to ~185psi, is now making ~430 hp, according to her trap-speed,
on that almost universally-hated 87E10.

The point of this story is;
don't sweat the alcoholized gas; it is not the devil in disguise. It's barely even a blip on the Hot-Rodder's radar screen. It was only ever a wake-up call; something to think about.
 
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This right here ^^
Don't let ethanol gas sit for more than a couple weeks in any carbureted engine. If you fill up and know you're not going to drive for 2-3 weeks put some Sea-Foam or Sta-Bil in it and you'll be fine
The problem with Ethanol fuel mix is called Phase Separation. Ethanol is very corrosive and you don't want that happening. Neither Seafoam or regular Stabil do anything to treat or prevent this separation. Use Stabil 360 Marine (Blue). It works. There is also a product called Phase 4 or 4 Phase can't remember which.
 
Ethanol is very corrosive
They mix in a corrosion inhibitor to the final product, before it is shipped.

I have a car that has run on 87 with corn juice and it sits with gas in the tank over the winter, and fires up with no issues every year. The only time I put Sta-bil in a tank, I had to clean the carb out the following spring. I haven't done that since, and it hasn't been a problem whatsoever. I've noticed that the Non oxygenated 91 has been grumpy after winter storage, but never that I couldn't fire up the car and drive it.

We've had ethanol in our gas since I can remember, and it hasn't been problematic for many many moons.
 
I have a car that has run on 87 with corn juice and it sits with gas in the tank over the winter, and fires up with no issues every year.
My car sat, not being fired up for 4 years before I got it. It had 1/2 tank of standard 2013 So Cal pump gas in it. No treatments of any kind. I got it home and sprayed a little starter fluid (I know I know) and it fired up. I expected it to die after the starter fluid was used up but it kept running. I filled the tank full and ran it to near empty, filled again and never looked back. I think the conditions the fuel is stored in makes the biggest difference. The car was stored in my mom's garage in So Cal, a few miles from the ocean. It can get a bit humid there but nothing like the eastern part of the country.
 
You can swing corn fuel anyway you want... it has less BTU's in it and rots rubber hoses, dries out fuel pump diaphragms and anything else in it's path. Go in full knowing that down the road it's gonna bite you in the ***.... avoid it like the plague if you can. Might be just fine for your new E85 F150, but it certainly isn't for your 55 year old ride !!!
 
They mix in a corrosion inhibitor to the final product, before it is shipped.

I have a car that has run on 87 with corn juice and it sits with gas in the tank over the winter, and fires up with no issues every year. The only time I put Sta-bil in a tank, I had to clean the carb out the following spring. I haven't done that since, and it hasn't been a problem whatsoever. I've noticed that the Non oxygenated 91 has been grumpy after winter storage, but never that I couldn't fire up the car and drive it.

We've had ethanol in our gas since I can remember, and it hasn't been problematic for many many moons.
Modern fuels begin degrading much faster than they did in the past. You have been fortunate.

There are many stories about people that have been less fortunate. The Ethanol fuel treatment stabilizer products are mfg and sold in response to issues with older engine technologies in vehicles and boats not built to the ethanol fuel standards modern cars and trucks are.
 
rots rubber hoses, dries out fuel pump diaphragms
Very true. Those are the only two symptoms I've experienced. I had to get a new diaphragm in one carb, and I had to replace the fuel hose coming off the sending unit, but that was on the car for well over a decade.
 
My ancient 360 has always been very happy with 87E10. But I designed it to be.
However, as indicated in above comments, she's not particularly excited to fire up on two-week old gas. Nor on last fall's gas either, even if was stabilized.
So what I have been doing is keeping a small bottle of stabilized gas under the hood, that is mixed ~10% with two-cycle oil. The 710 size lasts all summer.
So then, after an extended park-time, I just slosh a couple of teaspoons down the intake, advance the timing about 9 additional degrees with my handy-dandy, dash-mounted, dial-back, ignition-timing module, open the throttle to about 20/30%, and hit it! It works like a champ. I keep the rpm up, long enough to burn the puddle out of the AirGap, then leave it alone for a a minute or two if it's cold out (no choke Holley DP), then back out of the carport. After a few minutes of gentle driving, which gets me up to hiway speed, the alloy heads are warmed up, and I can dial the timing back to "normal", and she is WOT ready.
I live in the country tho, and so, its either; 12 or18 or25 minutes of hiway to one of my usual destinations. When I get to one of those, I will will fill-up with fresh fuel, and when I get home, I will slosh some fuel stabilizer into the tank. And I always have a 5-gallon can of fresh, stabilized gas in my garage, on rotation, if I need it..
So then the alcoholized fuel costs me nothing, but adjustment to; the start-up procedure, and to the gas-filling routine. That started in 1999 IIRC, at the time 87E10 came to town, which is why my engine has alloy heads, which is to run up to 195 psi cylinder pressure, which is to make BB torque, on that almost universally hated skunkpiss. I gotta tellya, I saved a lotta lotta money burning thatchit for so many years; and 93 in the Eighth is nothing to thumb yur nose at.
I never had a fuel-boiling issue, but I admit that I did have a long-standing engine overheat issue in the First summer that I could not cure. So I tore the engine down, and opened up the top ring gap, and the second just a tad, and honed the cylinders out about another half-thou for skirt clearance, and I painted my alloy heads with a good thick coat; which took care of all that.
This allowed me to reset the minimum coolant temp to 205*F, and run a Thermostatically controlled clutch fan.
But the underhood was still a blast-furnace, and I felt real bad for my 3/8 fuel-line system.
So I cut a hole in my hood and put the air-filter on top of the hood, sealing the underside to the carb; and I ran my fuel-line direct from mechanical-pump to carb, installing a big EFI metal-cased filter, back at the tank. And
I just gotta say, with the following changes now possible, I think the engine picked up a couple of hundred horsepower . Well maybe not quite that much, lol; but
I retarded the cam-timing to straight up 110* losing a bit of that crazy pressure, and
the MJs went from 68/76, to 72/80s.
And the Power-Timing went down 2>4 degrees without any loss of seat-of-the-pants power; and
the Idle-Timing could now be set down to 5*, if/when I needed it to be.... which gave me a ground-speed of less than ~3.7mph, which with 3.55s, and a 3.09-low 4-speed, at 500 rpm, made parading possible ............................. all of that, still on that almost universally-hated 87E10.
I drove that car, with it's 11.3Scr 367, as a DD for over 4 years, never giving the engine any special treatment, and raking in phenomenal fuel-economy; while
all my DA-friends were crying and moaning about detonation, and that universally hated alcoholized gas. Ok so they weren't friends, just acquaintances, that were unwilling to think outside the universally accepted Hot-Rodding box. To their everlasting shame.
Oh, I gotta tell ya, in that first year of introduction, we got two grades of gas 87 and later, 89, and no non-alcoholized gas. If you wanted better, you had to have a friend down at the crop-dusters shack, or cough up for a 200 liter drum; and a place to store it. Eventually we got 93 octane for the marine crowd. But my 367 ran that universally hated alcoholized 87E10, full-time,
Oh, and, my Barracuda, with a cam just one size bigger, and the pressure reduced to ~185psi, is now making ~430 hp, according to her trap-speed,
on that almost universally-hated 87E10.

The point of this story is;
don't sweat the alcoholized gas; it is not the devil in disguise. It's barely even a blip on the Hot-Rodder's radar screen. It was only ever a wake-up call; something to think about.
Sounds complicated
 
"Don't sweat the alcohol"... you've been drinking too much of it if that are your thoughts.

I can leave my junk parked unstarted for 4 or 5 months. They all start on the first or second crank...
 
Best "additive" ! Reminds me, I need my 500 gallon tank filled...

If your tank is buried, please make sure over time it does not leak. My neighborhood, all of whom have water wells as their only source of water, is facing an issue of MTBE contaminated water due to leaking gasoline storage tanks left underground and neglected. It sucks I can tell you.
 
If your tank is buried, please make sure over time it does not leak. My neighborhood, all of whom have water wells as their only source of water, is facing an issue of MTBE contaminated water due to leaking gasoline storage tanks left underground and neglected. It sucks I can tell you.
Not an issue, I track it well and I will know if I'm losing anything other than to evaporation...
beeswingercruisemay162021 045.JPG
 
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They mix in a corrosion inhibitor to the final product, before it is shipped.

I have a car that has run on 87 with corn juice and it sits with gas in the tank over the winter, and fires up with no issues every year. The only time I put Sta-bil in a tank, I had to clean the carb out the following spring. I haven't done that since, and it hasn't been a problem whatsoever. I've noticed that the Non oxygenated 91 has been grumpy after winter storage, but never that I couldn't fire up the car and drive it.

We've had ethanol in our gas since I can remember, and it hasn't been problematic for many many moons.
Depends very much on humidity, temperature, the exact blend of the fuel, and the car itself. Ethanol is miscible with water, so when given water to absorb, it will do so. If not exposed to water, nothing will happen.
 
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