No oil to top end

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Well that does it for me. Two pages and 47 posts to finally find out that no oil is getting anywhere, not just "no oil to the top". Why in the hell it's so hard getting needed information on threads like these, I'll never know. Yall have fun. I do wish you luck, Wes.
 
wes beem said:
gonna try to pull the intake tomorrow to have a better shot at getting to it
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BFS with some wiggle waggle and a strong magnet might save you the trouble of pulling the manifold.

if the oil pan is off, or recently off i'd probably just drop that-- if it's easily accessible and punch it out from from the bottom.

do report back, because now i'm intrigued!
 
because the first post was made when the issue first arose, and took more shop days and more dicking with it to get more information.

Alot of people keep acting like i should just know what the hells going on, ive done THREE 360 builds and have never ever experienced an issue where just putting a brand new oil pump in the motor and firing it up wasnt all it needed/took to make oil pressure. I didnt even know priming a pump was a thing on a Not 100% fresh brand new motor, this motor was in its Stock form, as pulled from the original truck and had/has never been changed messed with/worked on prior to Just the things i listed being done to it.
 
wes beem said:
No oil pressure anywhere..we spun the motor over with the starter with rockers removed for like 10 minutes. No oil.
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That was a REALLY not smart decision.

What I would do at this point is make ABSOLUTELY certain the oil pan has enough oil AND NO COOLANT, and then try to prime it WITH THE FILTER REMOVED. If you don't get oil, and it should take less than two seconds, The drive gear needs to come out and get inspected, and a separate shaft (allen) inserted to spin the pump CLOCKWISE, and if that gives nothing, the pan and pump needs to come off

PERIOD END OF CHOICES
 
wes beem said:
because the first post was made when the issue first arose, and took more shop days and more dicking with it to get more information.

Alot of people keep acting like i should just know what the hells going on, ive done THREE 360 builds and have never ever experienced an issue where just putting a brand new oil pump in the motor and firing it up wasnt all it needed/took to make oil pressure. I didnt even know priming a pump was a thing on a Not 100% fresh brand new motor, this motor was in its Stock form, as pulled from the original truck and had/has never been changed messed with/worked on prior to Just the things i listed being done to it.
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The reason people are getting antsy is that they have given you some suggestions, and you never got on here and said anything, even so much as "sorry I'm busy" or whatever.
 
CFD244 said:
Maybe the intermediate shaft is broken? The shaft didn't engage the pump??

Hate to be Captain Obvious.............There is oil in the engine?

When you did the TC, any chance that a bunch of crap fell into the pan and blocked the pick-up?
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CFD244, that's a thought. Did he install a deep sump pan and did not add the deep sump pick-up?
 
Swinger 340 said:
CFD244, that's a thought. Did he install a deep sump pan and did not add the deep sump pick-up?
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No. Everything on the motor was untouched and unmodified from factory. All we did was intake gasket timing chain and oil pump and put it back together. (With new gaskets ofc) heads were never off it either.

We managed to get the oil drive gesr out today. Trying to find stuff to make a tool to try and prime it with a drill.
 
Such a deal, if you wish take the pump shaft and visit your local tractor supply and purchase some hex rod. PRO TIP, slightly bevel the rod that you will use going into the oil pump, look at the ole oil shaft rod to see what I mean. Best of luck, you are getting close......
 
If you have an extra oil pump drive (intermediate shaft), take it to the bench grinder and grind all the teeth off of it and then make a piece of round stock with a flat on one end to spin it from a drill. If you don't have one laying around, the hex rod idea above will be much easier.
 
I've found that if you take a 1/8" inch welding rod and beat all the flux off and clean it up good, bend it 90 degrees about the last 1/2" and bend about a 3 inch 90 degree handle on the other end, you can get the short bent end under the gear and put a lot of pull on that intermediate shaft to get it out. You may have to use a big screwdriver to twist it back and forth while pulling. It could save pulling the intake.
 
nckennyb said:
I've found that if you take a 1/8" inch welding rod and beat all the flux off and clean it up good, bend it 90 degrees about the last 1/2" and bend about a 3 inch 90 degree handle on the other end, you can get the short bent end under the gear and put a lot of pull on that intermediate shaft to get it out. You may have to use a big screwdriver to twist it back and forth while pulling. It could save pulling the intake.
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I just use a piece of .032 MIG wire and make a loop. Take a screwdriver and twist the gear backwards and get it up off the cam. Slip the loop over and pull it out.

Of course, if you don’t have that any this wire will work.
 
wes beem said:
No. Everything on the motor was untouched and unmodified from factory. All we did was intake gasket timing chain and oil pump and put it back together. (With new gaskets ofc) heads were never off it either.

We managed to get the oil drive gesr out today. Trying to find stuff to make a tool to try and prime it with a drill.
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What is the chance you got the pump mounted "askew" and bound up the intermediate shaft?
 
wes beem said:
No. Everything on the motor was untouched and unmodified from factory. All we did was intake gasket timing chain and oil pump and put it back together. (With new gaskets ofc) heads were never off it either.

We managed to get the oil drive gear out today. Trying to find stuff to make a tool to try and prime it with a drill.
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I made myself one from a piece of 5/16" by 24" long hex stock that I cut to 16" length. Had to order it from Grainger Supply. Worked very well for me. You might be able to make one using a long piece of 1/4" square (key way) stock (available at the big orange lumber place), a 1/4" drive 5/16" hex socket and a length of 5/16" allen wrench/hex key cut off the long end if you can't wait for the hex stock. You would have to tape the pieces together so they don't come apart and end up at the bottom. I do know that my 3/8" drive long extension with a 5/16" hex socket would not fit through the intermediate shaft bushing.
 
wes beem said:
got a bone stock 360 LA with a brand new oil pump in it. Running the motor absolutely no oil is coming to the top end, all the passageways appear to be clear, we blew air thru them,and we even pulled the rockers and ran it that way and still no oil came up.

Pulled oil pan and pump, put pump in a tub of oil and spun it with a drill and it flung oil everywhere like theres nothing wrong with it....what else could be causing this?
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wes beem said:
got a bone stock 360 LA with a brand new oil pump in it. Running the motor absolutely no oil is coming to the top end, all the passageways appear to be clear, we blew air thru them,and we even pulled the rockers and ran it that way and still no oil came up.

Pulled oil pan and pump, put pump in a tub of oil and spun it with a drill and it flung oil everywhere like therg with it....what else could be causing this?es nothing wron
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wes beem said:
UPDATE: installed brand new oil pump, still no oil to top end.

To re iterate more clearly, absolutely nothing on the motor was touched outside of pulling the intake, putting a timing chain in, and cleaning the rockers/lifts/pushrods, then reassembly.

No cam swap, no cam bearings ext....i dont know what to do now. Rockers are properly installed. Double and triple checked and even turned motor over without them installed at all. Not 1 single drop of oil to the top end.
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If your pump works as stated with a drill spinning it , then something is not spinning correctly after installed , you stated you changed timing chain , make sure woodroof keys ways are in place in timing gears ,, gear an shaft to oil pump as stated could have sheared pin on start up ,,or its not in place properly ,, pull distributor cab and make sure cam is turning to spin the distributor when cranking
 
wes beem said:
No. Everything on the motor was untouched and unmodified from factory. All we did was intake gasket timing chain and oil pump and put it back together. (With new gaskets ofc) heads were never off it either.

We managed to get the oil drive gesr out today. Trying to find stuff to make a tool to try and prime it with a drill.
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Find an old oil pump shaft, cut or remove the gear and weld an extension rod to it.
 
Update, we made a tool to spin the oil pump with a drill while 1 person turned the motor over, Still no oil. Repeated the process off and on for about 5 hours. Nothing. Not one drop.

We pulled the oil filter, turned pump over with a drill and oil was running out of the filter hole steadily while we did this, so i guess something between the filter and everything else isnt right.


Think im just gonna go buy a new motor as i need this vehicle as a daily to get me to and from work and we've spent 2 weeks chasing our tails on this and i've burned up all of my favors with friends for borrowing vehicles ext.

Maybe later this winter ill have time to tear it down to a block and see whats up but the time for that has passed for now. At a total loss, ive done three 360s in the past and never had a problem like this. Thanks for all of the suggestions and troubleshooting guys
 
No oil to the heads and a timing chain was changed ? I have seen
new timing chains mistakenly installed off by a tooth. It may not cause total oil pressure failure but enough effect what reaches the top. Also the gauge you are using ?. Is it no longer the one from the truck .Are you using a electrical gauge if so I would get a direct hydraulic type . You might want to double check your work . Good luck
 
when you changed the pump and you did the oil change, did you fill the filter with oil ? the filter should be dry, otherwise it is blocking oil to go to the top. happened to me on a pontiac 400. wish it is only that.
 
7e5hangten360 said:
when you changed the pump and you did the oil change, did you fill the filter with oil ? the filter should be dry, otherwise it is blocking oil to go to the top. happened to me on a pontiac 400. wish it is only that.
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we tried both ways during our trying to rule stuff out.
 
when you prime the pump with a drill , you will feel the drill being harder to hold when the pump starts to build pressure and the drill will rotate slower. then turn the engine 5 degrees at a time, eventually you will have oil flowing at the rockers on one side. go on and it will flow on the other.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
I just use a piece of .032 MIG wire and make a loop. Take a screwdriver and twist the gear backwards and get it up off the cam. Slip the loop over and pull it out.

Of course, if you don’t have that any this wire will work.
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I've always just used one of those bent distributor wrenches to hook it under the quill shaft gear and a BA screwdriver to walk the gear teeth out of engagement. You don't need to pull the intake.
 
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