READ what I am telling you. Either the ECU is not grounded, or a wiring problem like a bad connection, or the ECU is toastI tested coil with ohm meter and both primary and secondary coils are good.
Took ballast resistor out and checked it and it shoes 1.0 ohms of resistance
I cannot tell by your drawing if the ECU connections are correct, but they seem to be. I don't see the IGN2 IE ignition bypass from the ignition switch. The "run" line from the key GOES DEAD during cranking. The IGN2 comes alive just like the start contact at the key, and feeds direct to the coi + side of the ballast
OP is not using a Chrysler ignition switch. It is just a temporary start switch.I don't see the IGN2 IE ignition bypass from the ignition switch. The "run" line from the key GOES DEAD during cranking. The IGN2 comes alive just like the start contact at the key, and feeds direct to the coi + side of the ballast
Stumbled upon your guide. Very understandable and easy to follow. Saved me from buying a bunch of random parts. Helped be resolve my issue of intermittent no spark once the car got warm. Turned out to be the module. Thank you!I've been putting together a troubleshooting guide specifically for this.
How Chrysler electronic ignitions work, and what to check if they don'
I see you have power at the coil positive terminal, that's a start. Can you run through the remaining voltage checks and let me know what you find?