No spark

-
A coil can measure ok with an ohm meter....but still be faulty. Substitution is the way you check for a failed coil or ECU.
 
twodog45 said:
I tested coil with ohm meter and both primary and secondary coils are good.
Took ballast resistor out and checked it and it shoes 1.0 ohms of resistance
Click to expand...
READ what I am telling you. Either the ECU is not grounded, or a wiring problem like a bad connection, or the ECU is toast

The coil has the same voltage on both sides of the primary. This means it is not drawing current. The ballast has the same voltage on both sides. This is all a series circuit, as I told you above. As the current comes (from ground, electron flow, the neg point) the current (if it is flowing) causes voltage drop along the way. There is none (voltage drop) so there is no current flowing.
 
The ECU should ground the coil negative terminal (so it would be 0-2 volts) at key on engine off. Either the ECU is bad or it isn't wired properly.
 
This is how I have it wired. I apologize for the crewed drawing.

20241114_061707.jpg
 
The only thing I see different is i have the ignition and wire to ecu both attached to the ballast resistor..
 
twodog45 said:
This is how I have it wired. I apologize for the crewed drawing.

View attachment 1716327214
Click to expand...
I cannot tell by your drawing if the ECU connections are correct, but they seem to be. I don't see the IGN2 IE ignition bypass from the ignition switch. The "run" line from the key GOES DEAD during cranking. The IGN2 comes alive just like the start contact at the key, and feeds direct to the coi + side of the ballast

READ what I told you above in the previous post(s).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top