Oiling issues

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New to the group. I have a Dodge Dart Sport race car. 440 .055 over, 11.5:1 compression, Eagle stock stroke crank and rods, 6 qt oil pan and high pressure pump. Older professional products billet oil filter with stainless steel cartridge. Last year I lost oil pressure and spun a couple bearings, hence the new Eagle crank. I pulled the filter and the cartridge imploded. I figured it was the debris from the bearings plugging up filter and causing that to happen. Well, I had the engine rebuilt, and second pass out it did the same thing to the oil filter and lost oil pressure. I shut it down before it did damage. Pulled oil filter and it imploded again. I’m thinking oil pump. Is there a filter bypass in it in case the oil won’t flow through it fast enough?

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Not trying to be an *** but get rid of that junk cartridge type oil filter and housing and put a good traditional oil filter on it.
 
Not trying to be an *** but get rid of that junk cartridge type oil filter and housing and put a good traditional oil filter on it.
That’s cool. I mean I’m here with an issue and I need an answer. My only issue with that is it has been fine for years. I do plan to take it off but I don’t think that’s the issue
 
It cost you one engine already and could have cost you the rebuild. It’s doesn’t seem like a matter of “if” it will collapse but “when” it will. And that’s been my experience with those canister oil filters on many types of equipment and engines. To answer your question, some have an internal bypass and some don’t. I’m not sure about that one but there is no mention of a bypass on jegs or summit. One thing I did notice is a 10 micron element and a 45 micron element. If you’re using the 10 it will clog quickly and they recommend cleaning it after every race.
 
It cost you one engine already and could have cost you the rebuild. It’s doesn’t seem like a matter of “if” it will collapse but “when” it will. And that’s been my experience with those canister oil filters on many types of equipment and engines. To answer your question, some have an internal bypass and some don’t. I’m not sure about that one but there is no mention of a bypass on jegs or summit. One thing I did notice is a 10 micron element and a 45 micron element. If you’re using the 10 it will clog quickly and they recommend cleaning it after every race.
Reason I’ve been using that filter is my buddy had a pulley fly off his crankshaft and ripped the oil filter off. Got oil under his back tires and slammed him into the wall. He using system one now. I’ve used this one for 8 years and this never happened until last year.
 
There is a reason Systems 1 put a sleeve inside their filter. To stop **** like that.

It’s hard to see in the picture but is there a screen or something inside to keep it from collapsing?

If it’s a race car and you have a 40 micron screen it will filter everything you need.

I know this. A screen filter is far less restrictive than other filters.

It’s great to filter flea shot out of the oil until the filter is so restrictive it causes the engine to not get enough oil.

You can test this with a gauge before and after the filter. I’ve seen 12-15 pounds more pressure with a 40 micron S1 filter.

That means 70 pounds was going into the filter and 55 was on the out to the engine.

That’s not very good.

40 micron filtered oil is far better than 20 micron filtering IF you are losing that much pressure across the filter.
 
How much oil pressure does your gauge show?
 
Not trying to be an *** but get rid of that junk cartridge type oil filter and housing and put a good traditional oil filter on it.
Preach it, brother! So many times people grab something shiny and new and try to reinvent the wheel.
 
It cost you one engine already and could have cost you the rebuild. It’s doesn’t seem like a matter of “if” it will collapse but “when” it will. And that’s been my experience with those canister oil filters on many types of equipment and engines. To answer your question, some have an internal bypass and some don’t. I’m not sure about
There is a reason Systems 1 put a sleeve inside their filter. To stop **** like that.

It’s hard to see in the picture but is there a screen or something inside to keep it from collapsing?

If it’s a race car and you have a 40 micron screen it will filter everything you need.

I know this. A screen filter is far less restrictive than other filters.

It’s great to filter flea shot out of the oil until the filter is so restrictive it causes the engine to not get enough oil.

You can test this with a gauge before and after the filter. I’ve seen 12-15 pounds more pressure with a 40 micron S1 filter.

That means 70 pounds was going into the filter and 55 was on the out to the engine.

That’s not very good.

40 micron filtered oil is far better than 20 micron filtering IF you are losing that much pressure across the filter.

that one but there is no mention of a bypass on jegs or summit. One thing I did notice is a 10 micron element and a 45 micron element. If you’re using the 10 it will clog quickly and they recommend cleaning it after every

Preach it, brother! So many times people grab something shiny and new and try to reinvent the wheel.
True but that’s not why I bought it
 
There is a reason Systems 1 put a sleeve inside their filter. To stop **** like that.

It’s hard to see in the picture but is there a screen or something inside to keep it from collapsing?

If it’s a race car and you have a 40 micron screen it will filter everything you need.

I know this. A screen filter is far less restrictive than other filters.

It’s great to filter flea shot out of the oil until the filter is so restrictive it causes the engine to not get enough oil.

You can test this with a gauge before and after the filter. I’ve seen 12-15 pounds more pressure with a 40 micron S1 filter.

That means 70 pounds was going into the filter and 55 was on the out to the engine.

That’s not very good.

40 micron filtered oil is far better than 20 micron filtering IF you are losing that much pressure across the filter.
Good info. This one does have some sort of liner with maybe 1/8” holes
 
Hardly. We all do things differently. I never said your way was wrong or bad or anything going that direction.
So I took the billet oil filter off and put a K&N on. I have great oil pressure but now I hear a knock in the engine. I put the car in the trailer and parked it way out back. Maybe better luck next year
 
If it ran fine before and now you are having the same problem "twice", something has changed drastically somewhere. If it were mine, I'd pull the engine, tear it down and start trouble shooting. Building any type of good race motor is an expensive undertaking and can really dishearten the average Joe when they experience these type of problems.
 
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That filter is not the problem. There is some other issue in the system.
I don’t disagree with you, yet. I don’t have enough information to make an informed decision. Like which element is being used, what weight oil, bypass spring pressure, etc. But I will say that a typical oil filter will not collapse like that. And that in and of itself IS a problem.
 
I don’t disagree with you, yet. I don’t have enough information to make an informed decision. Like which element is being used, what weight oil, bypass spring pressure, etc. But I will say that a typical oil filter will not collapse like that. And that in and of itself IS a problem.
I am learning a lot about oil filters over this issue. Oil filter cartridge is a professional products 10811 cartridge. I learned is a 10 micron filter. I’m using Lucas 20/50 full synthetic oil. I don’t know what pressure spring but cold start is 70psi.
 
I am learning a lot about oil filters over this issue. Oil filter cartridge is a professional products 10811 cartridge. I learned is a 10 micron filter. I’m using Lucas 20/50 full synthetic oil. I don’t know what pressure spring but cold start is 70psi.
That’s a lot of good info. What oil pump is on it?
 
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