oiling timing chain

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When was this corrective fix implemented? Can we pinpoint a model year?
 
From what little I know mid 70’s to mid 80’ Gran fury and Diplomats. If you find one make sure you get the fuel pump and bolts. The top of the pump is narrower to clear the plumbing of the oil return line. Also take all of the oil lines and fittings to the block and fuel pump. The bracket can be easily fabricated out of flat bar and/or angle iron.

When I installed the cooler setup on one of the Power Wagons I had I cut and spliced the factory hoses to fit. It worked.
 
Not going back & reading 5 pages but I think it was early in this thread where I said in my opinion, oiling of the t/chain on Detroit engines was more of an afterthought than a definitive attempt at consistent oiling.
Every engine I build, I do 'something' to positively oil the chain. On some engines I drill three 1/8" holes, spaced 120*, from the cam sprocket teeth to the centre of the sprocket. Depending on the engine, I drill or grind a channel from the front cam brg that mates up with the above three holes. Spkt & chain get pressure fed lubrication.
 
From what little I know mid 70’s to mid 80’ Gran fury and Diplomats. If you find one make sure you get the fuel pump and bolts. The top of the pump is narrower to clear the plumbing of the oil return line. Also take all of the oil lines and fittings to the block and fuel pump. The bracket can be easily fabricated out of flat bar and/or angle iron.

When I installed the cooler setup on one of the Power Wagons I had I cut and spliced the factory hoses to fit. It worked.
Being it be was an option for police cruiser (other fleet service) engines, most likely the extended/extreme amount of idling the engines were subjected to had something to do with the setup being created. The fleet maintenance shops experiencing timing chain issues and Chrysler developed this fix.
 
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Not run this thread into the Ground. But, I may have missed in this thread a mention of the need for a tensioner on the timing chain. Not to piss anybody off, but to explain what I know. Primarily the issue has to due to the center to center distance of the camshaft to the crankshaft centerlines. A SB Mopar's is 6.125", compared to the 5.125 of a BB Mopar. The tensioner is to control chain harmonics "slap" and to increase the life of the chain. The factory had them engineered and installed for a reason. The link below shows how big of a distance it is from other manufacture's designs.

http://www.romacusa.com/downloads/Sprocket_DataUS.pdf
 
upload_2021-12-30_12-48-30.jpeg

 
View attachment 1715842225 Sorry for the crappy photo. This is what I found when I opened my 68 273.No oil hole or drip tang.
Added both when re-assembled .
Up through 68 mopar small blocks used a tapered #1 main bearing to oil the chain. It has a different part number. #2 and 4 look the same visually but are swaged parallel to the crank surface, they are identical to each other. #1 is the oddball. Drip oiling from a hole in the upper right bolt used in later years worked much better.
 
View attachment 1715844205 View attachment 1715844206 Here are some photos of how I installed the cooler and oil lines on my Barracuda. Do I need the cooler, maybe. I do believe my motor needs the oiling to the timing chain and the eccentric.
This oil through fuel pump bolt nipple was common on trucks used for fuel oil delivery, and other applications requiring long PTO duty cycles. Lots of industrial applications run engines at low RPM for prolonged periods and benefit from specialized oiling solutions.
 
I am not sure if post #108 is correct. I have a Sealed Power Engine Brg catalog that covers the 318 engine era. Listed as years 57-78, mains 1-2-4 were the same, # MB-2035M.
Many brgs had reduced thickness at the parting line to allow for bearing pinch at higher rpms.
 
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