Jarlaxle
Well-Known Member
I question whether this might be the cork in the system. good as they are, those are a little small for 414ci.
Only 460hp
- Thread starter srduster340
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I question whether this might be the cork in the system. good as they are, those are a little small for 414ci.
sorcerer
Active Member
For the powerband great product; the heads are the real choke on this engine
justinp61
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When he gets good heads the headers will be a restriction.
So if I raise the compression to 10:1, add 1 7/8 headers, any idea how much this thing will improve?
Ironracer
Gearhead
Are you blowing the tires off? What's up?
sorcerer
Active Member
Only past 5500 you will notice; and not enough to being a real problem.
I don’t believe he’s sorted things out. I recall someone in another thread, asking him to post 60’ and 330’ etc times and nothing. No in depth info on timing or carburetor settings, no nothing. I think he is still severely dejected as he does bring up the fact he wasted money on a piece of garbage often. I think the poor car deserves another chance don’t you?
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Ironracer
Gearhead
Absolutely, it's a Mopar! They all deserve another chance! I know with the help from a lot of Pros on here you can probably get that guy's ET dropped rather quickly and possibly inexpensively,I don’t believe he’s sorted things out. I recall someone in another thread, asking him to post 60’ and 330’ etc times and we are all waiting. I think he is still severely dejected as he does bring up the fact he wasted money on a piece of garbage often. I think the poor car deserves another chance don’t you?
Edited for spelling
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Howard1784
Well-Known Member
Timing set at 40 total, 72 front 80 rear holley double pumper. The tires were not being blown off.(street tires) Best pass of ten passes was the very first pass...9.43 in the 8th, 2.642 60. 6.45 330 on a .602 reaction .........I do hate the car with a passion. That's said, I have a dyno proven 500 hp 360 built by Shelton Racing Engines in Georgia but I dont have a tranny that would support that hp level especially with NOS as well as a weak 28 spline ford 9 in. And the motor is internally balanced requiring me to get yet another converter I can't afford. All in all, I want to start new and fresh as I dont have the cash to F around and change everything again when getting a whole car that doesn't need major work would most likely the better option. I have back issues so my labor input is very limited and I dont want to to end up on SSI the rest of my life. I have accepted the car is a slug and dont want others to fall in the trap I did. To add insult to injury, car only gets 9 mi to gallon and that's changing to a vacuum secondary carb for the ride home.I don’t believe he’s sorted things out. I recall someone in another thread, asking him to post 60’ and 330’ etc times and nothing. No in depth info on timing or carburetor settings, no nothing. I think he is still severely dejected as he does bring up the fact he wasted money on a piece of garbage often. I think the poor car deserves another chance don’t you?
Total timing at 40 degrees? Most Mopar smallblocks like around 34. That's where my 414 made optimum power.
Ironracer
Gearhead
Sounds like You wanna go Fast, Real Fast! Lol. Have Patience Brother!
Ironracer
Gearhead
That's Detonation Territory..... depending on some other factors.
A 2.64 is a 19 second car 60' time. That alone is a good 6-7 tenths SLOW. Grannies in walkers are out in front at the 60' mark. A decent 360 Duster should 60' in the 2.00 minimum.
JMO. There is a huge tuning issue that is there. 9 MPG... my guess is the carb is tossing raw fuel in that shouldn't be there (fuel pressure, bad floats, something) also explains the soft 60' times. Does it smell like a fuel tanker losing it's fuel behind the car? Stinks badly? That engine should not smell like that. It's a mild build. Any fuel dripping from the venturi boosters at idle?
40 total? What's the idle timing? Don't know the converter or gear. Had a Demon with a 360/350hp run 107 MPH in 1/4 with a 2.00-2.10 60's and 2.94 gear in it.
The car gets faster at each incremental. 60 = 19.00 sec, 330 = 16.00, 1/8 = 15.00. What was the MPH at 1/8? I think it's so dirty down low, it kills any TQ/power, until it gets up in R's and cleans up. A 2.00 60, which is still slow, would garner an 8.40ish 1/8 mile is my guess.
If the converter has a weight on it, knock that sucker off. Internally balanced now.
Sorry that you are having and had issues with the car. Something is clearly wrong with the converter, fuel system/carb, ignition, valvetrain, IMO. I'd help you out with it if you were close.
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a stock 340 with some traction and a tune 60* 2.0 to 2.10 thats 7/10s of your issue
with that motor and traction should be 1.8s 60* theres 9/10s
timming at 40 cringe
tune the car 500 hp is in 11s
Nothin but wheelspin for the first 150 feet by the looks of those times.
Some people you just can’t help, and with the history of members here that have a wealth of knowledge and a history of willingness to offer excellent help, the silence by a majority of them is deafening, can’t say I blame them though.......
but for the sake of beating a dead horse:
the timing needs to be roughly as a ballpark something around 18-20 initial and 14°-16° mechanical = 34° total, vacuum adds something like 16°-18° for 50°-52° Adjust from there.
Pull the carb, and as needed: square up the transfer slots, get idle afr set, work on pump shot, cruise afr, and check cruise vacuum and put a correct power valve in, work on secondaries, wot runs and jet accordingly. That’s the general idea.
And i might just pull the front end off the engine and check with a degree wheel etc to see where that cam is installed.
Think any of that’s been done methodically and meticulously?
but for the sake of beating a dead horse:
the timing needs to be roughly as a ballpark something around 18-20 initial and 14°-16° mechanical = 34° total, vacuum adds something like 16°-18° for 50°-52° Adjust from there.
Pull the carb, and as needed: square up the transfer slots, get idle afr set, work on pump shot, cruise afr, and check cruise vacuum and put a correct power valve in, work on secondaries, wot runs and jet accordingly. That’s the general idea.
And i might just pull the front end off the engine and check with a degree wheel etc to see where that cam is installed.
Think any of that’s been done methodically and meticulously?
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The 1-5/8 x 1-3/4 TTI step headers? Have you ever personally used those headers?
When I installed the RHS-X heads that flowed in excess of 300 cfm was it the 1-5/8 x 1-3/4 TTI headers that limited the 424ci/360 to 620+ HP?
justinp61
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It would've been interesting to see what it would've made with a 1 7/8" header. Have you had it on the drag strip?
As far as I know the owner never has put it on the strip. Lots of street racing.
What I do know is, that every time I opened up the cross sectional area of the intake port on the cylinder head, the power went up on the dyno. So it appears to me the header wasn't the bottleneck to that point.
Interestingly enough was that in back to back tests on the engine the Summit Racing $129 (at that time) 1-5/8 long tube header made only one less average horsepower from 3,000-6,000 rpm than the TTI step header. Above 6,000 the TTI was better.
What would happen with a bigger header tube I cannot say. I will only report what I have actually tested. Anything else I might have an opinion on should only be considered as BS by me.
The intake and head is the limiting factor in your engine combo.
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