Operation Torquey-Pig

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MrJLR

MrJLR

Built, not bought
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Well, early after Christmas I will start purchasing parts for my new engine build.

The car is my 1968 Plymouth Barracuda. It will run the current driveline with the 727 (3000rpm stall) and my 3:55 8 3/4 rear end.
Gear vendors overdrive later.

So.....my plan is to use the virgin 1968 318 I have (block and main caps only). After machining here's a short list of the plan.

Stroker kit (392)
Roller cam conversion
Edelbrock aluminum heads
Edelbrock ProFlow 4 sequential port fuel injection
Adding AC (absolute must!)

So here's the deal. ...I don't spend a lot of time in real high RPM...I don't drag race either. Most of my fun is 0 to 60. So I don't care that on a dyno it get *** horsepower at 6200 RPM...I won't see that real often.
I want a torque monster! Seat of the pants torque I'll feel all the time.

I also want to be able to turn the key and drive up the coast if I wanted.

I want to build this bulletproof. ....getting too old to be swapping engines every few years.....

So based on my list and my intended driving and longevity goals, any suggestions or criticisms are welcome.

Jeff
 
RustyRatRod said:
Torquey Pig. What an awesome name. lol
Click to expand...
You're one of the guys whose opinion on this build I'm looking forward to. ....even though you can sometimes be, ya know, you...lol.

Seriously, there are some seriously knowledgeable people on here that could save me a ton of headaches. ....

I'm trying to put together a solid plan ...I tend to overthink way too much!

Jeff
 
My question is what are you going to do with the flat top valve relief pistons that are coming out of the '68 318 ?
 
George Jets said:
OK thanks, like to grab those '68 - '69 pistons and the full floating rods when I can find good deals on them.

Like those 318s
Click to expand...

Ma Mopar got it right.

318 3.jpg
 
Sounds solid. In Cali. w/AC be sure to have plenty of radiator. 3:55s w/ 14" will give you about 3100rpm@ 65mph. You might want to adjust a little. Good luck.
 
Murray said:
Sounds solid. In Cali. w/AC be sure to have plenty of radiator. 3:55s w/ 14" will give you about 3100rpm@ 65mph. You might want to adjust a little. Good luck.
Click to expand...
I'm running with 15" wheels now but might go taller to drop some RPMs.....

Jeff
 
MrJLR said:
You're right. ...forgot to mention I'd like to be at around 10:1 compression so that pump fuel isn't an issue.
Yes hydraulic roller....

Jeff
Click to expand...
You can probably build your compression to 11:1 with aluminum heads.
 
Something along those lines of camshaft would definitely do it, especially if you start looking at 1.6:1 rockers To get up near peak lift with the edelbrock heads. It may start running out of breath after 5500, but would pull like a black hole up to that point. Of course, there are faster ramp rates available elsewhere. From the sound of the build, though, I imagine your wanting an easier on the valve train lower potential maintenance approach.
 
I’m also curious about the air conditioning. The edelbrock heads protrude from the front of the engine further than the factory heads. It can make things “interesting“ when setting the accessory drives. Is there someone who makes an a/c set up to work around that if you have to high mount the alternator? I haven’t looked too hard at the serpentine systems but I’m sure someone would make something for it. Which manifold is the FI based around? It looks like a super victor in the pics.
 
I would probably try and find a factory roller lifter 318 block. The retrofit lifters are a pain and require special gears etc. Keep the duration down and it will be easy to drive and work well with the fuel injection.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
I’m also curious about the air conditioning. The edelbrock heads protrude from the front of the engine further than the factory heads. It can make things “interesting“ when setting the accessory drives. Is there someone who makes an a/c set up to work around that if you have to high mount the alternator? I haven’t looked too hard at the serpentine systems but I’m sure someone would make something for it. Which manifold is the FI based around? It looks like a super victor in the pics.
Click to expand...
I'm a machinist with access to CNC mills and lathes....purely for ascetics I'm going to move the alternator to the drivers side so the AC compressor can sit where the alternator is now.....
I'll be making a couple custom brackets.

Jeff
 
MrJLR said:
You're one of the guys whose opinion on this build I'm looking forward to. ....even though you can sometimes be, ya know, you...lol.

Seriously, there are some seriously knowledgeable people on here that could save me a ton of headaches. ....

I'm trying to put together a solid plan ...I tend to overthink way too much!

Jeff
Click to expand...

Yeah, I know. LOL I caint help it. I resigned myself a long time ago to not necessarily give people the answer they wanted to hear. That's all some people want.
 
MrJLR said:
Well, early after Christmas I will start purchasing parts for my new engine build.

The car is my 1968 Plymouth Barracuda. It will run the current driveline with the 727 (3000rpm stall) and my 3:55 8 3/4 rear end.
Gear vendors overdrive later.

So.....my plan is to use the virgin 1968 318 I have (block and main caps only). After machining here's a short list of the plan.

Stroker kit (392)
Roller cam conversion
Edelbrock aluminum heads
Edelbrock ProFlow 4 sequential port fuel injection
Adding AC (absolute must!)

So here's the deal. ...I don't spend a lot of time in real high RPM...I don't drag race either. Most of my fun is 0 to 60. So I don't care that on a dyno it get *** horsepower at 6200 RPM...I won't see that real often.
I want a torque monster! Seat of the pants torque I'll feel all the time.

I also want to be able to turn the key and drive up the coast if I wanted.

I want to build this bulletproof. ....getting too old to be swapping engines every few years.....

So based on my list and my intended driving and longevity goals, any suggestions or criticisms are welcome.

Jeff
Click to expand...

If torque is your main goal.....STREET torque and it sounds like it is, wait till everyone recommends a camshaft and then run one 10* smaller at .050.
 
upload_2020-10-9_19-50-3.png


Here's a 390 stroker with Speedmaster heads. 10.5/1 358 horse at 4500 but 474 lb/ft @3000
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yeah, I know. LOL I caint help it. I resigned myself a long time ago to not necessarily give people the answer they wanted to hear. That's all some people want.
Click to expand...
Yer not nearly as bad as some might think.....I've gotten used to yer style!
 
MrJLR said:
I'm a machinist with access to CNC mills and lathes....purely for ascetics I'm going to move the alternator to the drivers side so the AC compressor can sit where the alternator is now.....
I'll be making a couple custom brackets.

Jeff
Click to expand...

Please don't negate the idea that some guys on here might just want copies of the results of that effort!! LOL
 
67Dart273 said:
Please don't negate the idea that some guys on here might just want copies of the results of that effort!! LOL
Click to expand...
If I do this right, and I think I will, I already considered that some might want them!
Small block mopar engines are beautiful. I HATE that AC sitting TDC on the front of the engine. It needs to be where the alternator sits so the lines can go straight back. ....obvious solution is move the alternator.

Jeff
 
MrJLR said:
If I do this right, and I think I will, I already considered that some might want them!
Small block mopar engines are beautiful. I HATE that AC sitting TDC on the front of the engine. It needs to be where the alternator sits so the lines can go straight back. ....obvious solution is move the alternator.

Jeff
Click to expand...
You may want to check out Hemi Denny's threads. He has been working on accessory brackets for small blocks lately.
 
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