Yes, it is what the "book" calls for.Would a 7 blade fan be worth a try?
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Yes, it is what the "book" calls for.Would a 7 blade fan be worth a try?
CVF serpentine kits as mentioned have 6.4" Crank & 5.3" Water pump pulleys. Their V belt pulleys are 1:1.OP, this was answered correctly in post 9.
You need to over drive the water pump. And the fan. Low speed cooling issues are usually a water/air issue.
If CVF has a 20% over driven pulley set please post up the part number.
I’m at 6% over right now but I would gladly go 20 over.
I've preached that a lot on here before and it falls on deaf ears. You look at every new car made and the under side of the engine bay is closed off so that air has to be forced through the grille and radiator.I ran the car this evening and found a ton of HOT air is just spewing from under the car. I suspect that a lot of this hot air is cycling back through the rad. I was going through some parts and noticed I haven't installed the splash guards yet. Not sure if thats going to be a game changer with airflow? I took some pics and in the green highlighted areas, would adding some panels to cover those areas be beneficial? I'm thinking maybe than hot air won't be short cycling back through the rad and seems like a lot of the newer vehicles have plastic that is covering this area.
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Well......not all of them are less efficient. Most of the el cheapo chinkesium radiators are, but a true 3 row high efficiency radiator will stomp the guts out of most any two row for cooling.Also, 3 row radiators have less cooling area than 2 rows. More is not always better. Most of the time when you see someone on here with cooling problems, they just put a new 3 row radiator in….
I would look for an A/C WP pulley.I have verified my 180 high flow stat is fully opening with the pot of water on the stove method prior to installing. I did some research on overdriven pulleys and found the only way to get anything overdriven was to change the entire pulley set up to serpentine like the CVF 1:20 set up as the stock overdriven pulleys are super hard to find. I figured I would try the stock non AC Pulley I had as that wasn't really in the budget at the time.
I was told in the early 1970's that a 340 A/C WP impeller had one less "blade" on it.if it were me...
put a stock water pump and thermostat in your cooling system. A stock mopar water pump flows 20% more than a GM or Ford. The stock thermostat will keep your coolant in the rad longer.
Get rid of the clutch fan...they operate at about 80% speed at idle due to fluid slip.
Try a little more initial timing. Retarded will put the fire in the heads rather than the cylinders where the coolant will absorb the heat. A good test is to check and see if your headers glow in the dark.
If that all fails..just open the vault and get a griffin muscle car rad with 1 1/4" tubes. Then go find a red light and sit there without worry at an ambient temperature of 90 plus.
Going to try a new radiator cap today as that's the cheapest easiest thing to do. If that doesn't work I do plan on trying to find a 7 blade fan. I'm not sure about the pulley swap just yet as they are super hard to find and the 1:1 ratio available from cvf is too small of a difference to justify. Also going to try directing more air through the front of the Rad by playing around with some panels under the car to prevent hot air short cycling back into the Rad.
Thanks! I would greatly appreciate those part numbers when you get a chance.I can pull out the receipt and give you the part numbers for V pulleys that will get you to 6% over. If you are less than 1:1 now and you can get to 6% over that’s a huge increase.
But, I will say you will have to do some shim work to get the pulled lined up. IIRC I’m using. BBM WP pulley and a small block crank pulley. Or the other way round. But it’s not hard to get them lined up.