Overheating issues with remanufactured 360

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He didn't tell us to get 2 750s he said with the engine like it is right now we would need the to give the cam and intake what they require.

We are going to get a milder cam and carb to make the car more of a driver instead of a drag style car.
We are getting a new manifold, smaller carb, milder cam, and putting the stock torque converter in it. We are going to figure out the fan system after.
 
Travis72dart said:
He didn't tell us to get 2 750s he said with the engine like it is right now we would need the to give the cam and intake what they require.

No way that needs two 750 carbs!

We are going to get a milder cam and carb to make the car more of a driver instead of a drag style car.
We are getting a new manifold, smaller carb, milder cam, and putting the stock torque converter in it. We are going to figure out the fan system after.
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I can't imagine why you would spend all of the money changing things, when you have an overheating problem.

I would narrow that down first.
 
is the water flowing through the radiator after the thermostat opens? can you physically SEE the water moving with the cap off ?? I bet not because the thermostat isn't opening. if its at boiling point after 3 minutes then the water is not flowing. I bet a tunnel ram will fix it.
 
Bad Sport said:
I can't imagine why you would spend all of the money changing things, when you have an overheating problem.

I would narrow that down first.
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I ultimately just decided I want a driver as opposed to when I first got the car I wanted a beefed up 360.
 
73AbodEE said:
is the water flowing through the radiator after the thermostat opens? can you physically SEE the water moving with the cap off ?? I bet not because the thermostat isn't opening. if its at boiling point after 3 minutes then the water is not flowing. I bet a tunnel ram will fix it.
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Yes the water flow seemed to be fine it did the normal burping and we kept filling it and what not. We have the engine out now and have the top end ready for the new parts.
 
What I'm saying is, what if you throw all that money at it and discover the block is cracked hence the overheating.

I would certainly make sure I had a stable platform first, but it's your money.
 
Bad Sport said:
What I'm saying is, what if you throw all that money at it and discover the block is cracked hence the overheating.

I would certainly make sure I had a stable platform first, but it's your money.
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We had it looked over when we had the heads done. This was when I first bought the engine and they put the heads and everything together at a local performance shop.
 
Sounds like you need to decide what you want then make a plan , oriellys rebuild and performance just don't mix , crazy heads and cam and a bottom end that is probably sub oem standard makes no sense . I f you want a reliable driver 9.5 compression , Comp xe 268 or xe 262 , Air gap , Holley 670 street avenger 3:55 gears and a 2200 stall converter . Car will be quick and dead reliable .
I don't know why the overheating , might be the shroud blocking to much of the rad , fans not enough , the stock rad with an added core , shroud and a good fan should keep it cool , mine runs cool in 100 degree heat sitting in traffic or cruising on the highway , mild 340 running in the high 12's
 
Oh boy!!

I don't know what your 283* cam is at .050, but with that short accompanying lift, Ima gonna guess it's right around mid 230s*. That is a dynomite street cam. DYNOMITE! If it gets into the mid 240s, well then, ok that's getting up there for a streeter.
To sub it out is to invite other problems,(Dcr wise) and will absolutely not solve your "overheating" problems, which has still to be proven.
Bite the bullet,back up the bus,put a mechanical fan on it!Then drive the wheels off it like I do mine.
As to electric fans,they work on drag cars. Some people have made them work on the street. Key part is MADE them work.
EDIT
As to carburetion; you can put anything on there you want! It just performs differently with different sized carbs. Think about it. A 750 when operating on the primaries is nothing but a big 2bbl. A 600 has smaller primaries and thus a smaller 2bbl on primaries. A 6-pac still operates on a 2bbl.The small TQ has very small primaries; and thus is akin to a very small 2bbl. All these carbs work on most V8s. At the other end, it is possible to stick something on there that is really too big.
The trick to sizing just one, street carb, is to cover all the bases: idle,part throttle acceleration, and WOT.On the street;too small is mostly better than too big. On my 360, I have run carbs from 500 to 750, and the big TQ. And vac secondaries as well as DPs and air-doors.They all work just fine. My favorite is the 750DP, cuz I can open all barrels,whenever, and get lots of wheelspin. On the highway I like the small TQ, cuz its economy tune-able.But they all work. At the track it's different; you will want the engine to put out max power, throughout its powerband and especially at the top of the track. Here sizing is more critical.
 
If you had used a heat gun you could have found out where the hotspot begins and worked from there. If one exhaust manifold is much hotter than the other, or one head is hotter than the other, or the temp at the top of the radiator is the same as the temp at the bottom, you would have some info to work with. A while back there was a thread where the op dismantled a newly assembled 340 completely because the timing chain cover seal had a squeak. You are rapidly falling into this trap. Next time get the book and do some research. Then...with extreme care build your own engine. With your dads knowledge I'm surprised you didn't do this from the start. Then you will know that some disgruntled employee didn't drop a marble into a water passage.
 
Travis72dart said:
Yes the water flow seemed to be fine it did the normal burping and we kept filling it and what not. We have the engine out now and have the top end ready for the new parts.
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So how are you going to break in the cam? You won't be able to run it long enough to do so because of the overheating issue, and you won't be able to run it to find the overheating issue in fear of wiping out the cam.

I'm confused.
 
Bad Sport said:
So how are you going to break in the cam? You won't be able to run it long enough to do so because of the overheating issue, and you won't be able to run it to find the overheating issue in fear of wiping out the cam.

I'm confused.
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Stop talking sense! :D
 
Bad Sport said:
So how are you going to break in the cam? You won't be able to run it long enough to do so because of the overheating issue, and you won't be able to run it to find the overheating issue in fear of wiping out the cam.

I'm confused.
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Just take the top hose off and run the garden hose in the radiator. If the thermostat is good should be good. If the t-stat is bad...do over.
 
Bad Sport said:
So how are you going to break in the cam? You won't be able to run it long enough to do so because of the overheating issue, and you won't be able to run it to find the overheating issue in fear of wiping out the cam.

I'm confused.
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I'm not 100% sold on the idea that the fans aren't adequate. The shroud has 2 10" holes in the back with the high flow fans pulling air through the radiator and pushing it towards the engine, you can feel the air from them when the hood is up just standing on the side of the car. They are set to come on when the ignition is in the on position and they are insanely loud before the car is even started, they kick ***. I'm not trying to argue with anyone, I know a lot of you have experience and I'm not trying to say otherwise. I appreciate all the input.
 
The concern/issue is the while they may flow a lot of air, the shroud is so shallow that it makes at least half of the air that could come through the rad to make a sharp 90 degree turn. This truly restricts a lot of the air flow from the areas of the rad that are not directly in front of the fans; i.e., you are only getting good airflow through 2 10" diameter areas of the rad and some small areas around that, not the whole rad. Compute it out: That leaves you with maybe 150 square inches of rad area with good air flow (and I am being generous at that), out of a total flow area of over 300 square inches.

This limited flow area may be OK with a very low heat load (idle) but not at any higher heat load. 'specially with a 2 row rad. The stock setup with the smooth radiused shroud made sure that did not happen.

And at any speed above around 25 mph or so, the air flow from the car's motion becomes the primary air mover, not the fans. That car motion will move far, far more air through an open rad than any set of fans ever will, and the fans alone will simply not move enough air when you have any load (heat generation) in the engine. Additionally, the fan blades will actually block some of the externally induced airflow so that becomes even worse, and the above mentioned sharp turns in airflow will further restrict total flow. Again, look at the stock shroud and fans.

If you put 90 degree turns in an intake port, you would expect the airflow to the cylinders to drop like a rock; it will do the same for a shroud.
 
Travis72dart said:
I'm not 100% sold on the idea that the fans aren't adequate. The shroud has 2 10" holes in the back with the high flow fans pulling air through the radiator and pushing it towards the engine, you can feel the air from them when the hood is up just standing on the side of the car. They are set to come on when the ignition is in the on position and they are insanely loud before the car is even started, they kick ***. I'm not trying to argue with anyone, I know a lot of you have experience and I'm not trying to say otherwise. I appreciate all the input.
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Well, I guess my point being, you start a thread about overheating, you have NOT resolved that issue.

Now you jump to cam install. With that, you must be able to start it up and run it at 2000-2500 rpm's for 20 to 30 minutes.

If the engine overheats you're gonna have to shut it down before the cam is broke in.

You might get lucky, or you could wipe out the cam. Then it's time to start all over again.
 
All right! you haven't applied any ones advice to your over heating issue. and now you have the intake off. :banghead:

OK THE FACTS: You don't be leave any body here, that that nice electric fan/s, is the problem problem.

My advice...................................................?

YOU HAD BETTER HAVE A GARDEN HOSE FLOODING THAT RADIATOR WHILE YOUR, BRAKING, IN THAT NEW CAM!!!!!
 
Yup, over heat... or not, he will have finally given us some data :D
 
johnnymac2k6 said:
Is there any water in the oil?
is there any water coming out the exhaust?
have you replaced or tested the radiator cap?
does it pump the overflow full when it overheats? or even before it gets hot?

Since the Op ignored it the first time, i'm quoting it again.
I can't even deal with threads like this, that keep working their way back to the top of the pile, with nothing getting accomplished.

x100 questions from guys trying to help....IGNORED
x100 good suggestions from people trying to assist regardless of lack of info from OP...IGNORED

followed up with a complete disregard for any actual solutions or troubleshooting, and diving into a cam swap, while not even knowing what is causing the overheating issue that the original thread is about.

your cam could have 800 lift, and if it's not beating the valves into the pistons, it has nothing to do with overheating. The only advice you have even acknowledged is some joker at summit (AKA rookie callcenter employee) making some ridiculous statement that you need two 750 carbs worth of air and fuel to cool the motor down??? yeah thats it, about as much as the cam is the culprit. FYI my 408 w/ 620HP has 760/750 lift, and runs at 180 degrees all day long, including down the track.
you're driving us nuts here.
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You have some of the brightest mopar minds in the world on this site,, a lotta us also come from "the day",, a few of us are professonal mechanics working on these cars for decades, including at the dealership, when they came out new..

Had you simply done a search using the word "overheat",, you woulda had dozens of threads,, 90 % dealing with difficultys with electric fans and the misc mountings that DIDN'T work,, and a few that did..

The spring of 2014,, doing that search woulda resulted in 10 of the 12 latest treads were all about your problem..

None were resolved with a cam or carb/manifold change...lol (what a hoot)

You need to do an orderly process of elimination to find what your exact problem is,, there have been several suggestions on how to do so,, by many knowledgeable members..

You chose to ignore them all,, so don't be surprised if you get ignored the next time you need help,, and folks here do have the answer to resolve any problem you have..

Good luck with you problem,, and the can of worm you may open if you do that suggested cam/intake/carbS swap...

hope it helps,, but somehow doubt it... cheers..
 
Mark my words, he will have taken that entire car apart before he gets to the fans and radiator shroud. A quick back flush may be all it needs.
 
Unbelievable!

I call three pages of real Mopar guys saying the shroud/electric fan combo doesn't work well a clue.
 
My money is on the t-stat installed upside down. No other reason for an engine to over heat in 2-3 mins. at idle. If that don't work, call Summit back and order a 528 hemi, that'll fix your overheating problem...hehehe
 
jasperjacko said:
My money is on the t-stat installed upside down. No other reason for an engine to over heat in 2-3 mins. at idle. If that don't work, call Summit back and order a 528 hemi, that'll fix your overheating problem...hehehe
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With his dads knowledge of cars I find it hard to believe he would let the kid overlook the t-stat. But hey...something's wrong. A 528 would fix a couple of my problems. These screaming small blocks are getting hard to deal with.
 
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