Overheating issues with remanufactured 360

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I'm not sure why there is so little room honestly, it's mounted in the stock holes with the stock mounts... we couldn't use the clutch fan with the aluminum radiator.
 
ir3333 said:
a solid factory 6 blade will cool better than a clutch fan.
a clutch fan is designed to slip and use less hp so turns less than crank speed.However they are adequate for some builds.
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A thermal clutch slips when engine is cool. Once the thermal spring expands the clutch engages and turns at engine speed.

Viscous fan clutch and thermal clutch is not the same.
 
jerry6 said:
Why is there so little clearance between the engine and radiator ? Seems like no room for a good clutch fan . Is the engine mounted in the right place ?
I run a 30 over 11.3 :1 340 and it never overheats , factory rad clutch fan and shroud . This weekend took a 100 mile cruise and it was 93 degrees , no problems , not even sitting in standing traffic for 1 hour . I was melting , car was fine .
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We had a clutch fan with the stock radiator and had room but with the aluminum one it takes up too much room for a clutch fan.
 
mderoy340 said:
A thermal clutch slips when engine is cool. Once the thermal spring expands the clutch engages and turns at engine speed.

Viscous fan clutch and thermal clutch is not the same.
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..you may be correct on that,but even though the thermal coil does do some adjusting they are both still fluid couplings and Haydens web site says they will only turn 80% of crank speed.
None of this matters if your engine runs cool with one.I have seen more than one engine overheating problem solved by replacing a thermal clutch unit with a solid fan
 
As was already said, Dump those fans, and shroud. Put on a Summit 6 blade stainless fan with the correct size fan spacer. Get a shroud to fit. I used an 18 inch fan, and built my own shroud, only cause I couldn't find one pre made. Fan blades need to be 1/2 way in the shroud. Also didn't see any exact temps posted. Get the HF temp gun, tell us what it's actually doing, so we can help.
 
There is absolutely no reason for your 360 to be overheating,at idle.Except maybe those teensy fans.Even if they had adequate CFMs, there is no place for the air to go. Not only do they have to pull air through the condenser and the rad, but then they have to push the air up against the engine, turn 90* and then try to find an exit. And then they have to fight eachother yet.You are asking way to much of them.

I have run 11.2cr with the 292purple cam, TTIs,a 7# cap, and a 195 stat. I run an A/C rad circa 1973. I am currently running a Hughes HE3238 @ 10.7cr. I bet it could idle a very long time with no fan at all on it. But..........I run a thermostatic clutch-fan and a 7-blade cuz I had them. The engine is un-overheatable as a streeter.

If, in fact, yours is overheating at idle,(as proven with an IR gun),this is what I'd do; I'd start at the top of the list and retest after each item,until you achieve success.
1) Make sure the engine is running some decent idle-timing;say 14*, Prove the stat, prove the belt is not slipping, prove the heat-riser is free, and the mufflers/pipes are flowing.
2) Make sure air can get through the condenser and rad.Remove those fans and the shroud.Put a light back there and have a second person get eyes on the front side. Move the light all around, everywhere. If the light doesn't come through, do you imagine air will? But lets suppose it passes the light test.
3) Put a direct drive steel fan on there with a shroud.As many blades as you can find.With a good pitch on them.If it doesn't fit,make it. I know you spent money on your current set-up, but it's not working,right? I have spent thousands on things that didnt work out as I'd hoped.That's rodding.
4) Make sure the water-pump drive ratio is right. If you're not buzzing 7000rpm,get the water pump spinning.And while you're there, put a hi-volume pump on there or put an anti-cavitation plate on the impeller.
5) put straight water in there, with a WP additive.Or if you're rich you can try the water-wetter.
6) get fresh cold air to the carb. I'd do this anyway. To not do so is give up power,economy and driveability.
That's what I'd do.
Now, after you have a nice stable temp, you can go back and try backing up some of the steps. Say by running anti-freeze.Or a thermostatic clutch, etc.
Happy hunting, and good luck

And BTW; whats with those cam specs? Does it really have more duration on the intake side than on the exhaust? OEM iron heads like 5 to 10 degrees more on the exhaust side, especially with iron ex.manifolds.
 
It sounds like you had no fan before the shroud and electric fans. Is that correct?

How about some fundamental tests first?
1. Was the t'stat installed right? The 'button' should face into the engine.
2. Verify that the engine is actually getting hot. Buy/borrow a thermal temp gun and check the temp at the thermostat housing and the top hose and the top left corner of the radiator. As the engine warms up idling, it should read around 180 F + or - when the t'stat opens; the hose and rad top left will be 5-10 degrees cooler. It should not rise much above that.
Then, put a candy thermometer in the rad filler and check the temps. Being on the outlet side, it ought to be roughly 40 degrees lower. (But with that shroud, it will not likely cool down that much.)
3. Borrow a system pressure gauge and test the cooling system pressure; see if there are any pulsations on the pressure gauge once it heats up. If so, that indicates a combustion gas leak into the water jacket.

Sorry to burst your bubble on the shroud......You are reaching the wrong conclusion that the shroud is OK because the setup overheated before the shroud and fans were installed; there may be an underlying problem or you just traded one problem for another. That shroud and fan set up will not possibly flow enough air to keep the engine cool. If you find and get other problems solved, that shroud will not allow enough airflow at any significant speed to allow the heat to exit from the system.

As for fan size..... I have much bigger fans on a 2.6L engine than that!

There have been incensed posters on here before when they were told that their shrouds would not work..... please keep an open mind and don't be one of those guys. I know it was a lot of effort to put that together. People are offering advice based on experience here.
 
nm9stheham- Imagine if the thermostat was upside down? Sometimes its something smallest things
 
I don't like aluminum radiators. spend the money on copper like it had when it was built.
 
So my dad called and talked to summit to order some parts and he talked to a 60 something year old drag racer who asked about our manifold, cam and carb and he did the math and said we need 2 750 double pumper to even start giving the cam and manifold the juice they need. We only have 1 750 dp. We are going to get a new manifold and a milder cam and go from there.

Appreciate all the input, were going to start with the innards and if that doesn't help we'll troubleshoot with everyone's suggestions. Thanks guys.
 
A
Travis72dart said:
So my dad called and talked to summit to order some parts and he talked to a 60 something year old drag racer who asked about our manifold, cam and carb and he did the math and said we need 2 750 double pumper to even start giving the cam and manifold the juice they need. We only have 1 750 dp. We are going to get a new manifold and a milder cam and go from there.

Appreciate all the input, were going to start with the innards and if that doesn't help we'll troubleshoot with everyone's suggestions. Thanks guys.
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And it'll still run hot. I'm not a fan of electric fans, didn't have good luck with them. My 340 overheated until I installed a MP viscous fan on it with a properly fitted shroud. The same set up cooled my 550 hp 408 and I have no doubt about it cooling my 434 when it's done.

BTW you don't need two 750's. Do not take the person who told you this seriously again.
 
That fan and shroud set up will not cool your set up. Those fans don't pull near enough air and the shroud blocks all the air flow at highway speed.
 
As Nancy Reagan said: "Just say NO" .... to the dual 750's that is. Oh, maybe the guy meant some sort of '750' electric fan.....LOL

Good luck with all the checks and cooling upgrades. I think we'd all appreciate knowing, and learn from, the temp check results and the solutions. Don't shortcut the pressure test if you can; there is that nagging issue of this being an O-reilly rebuild, and a great cooling design won't fix a head gasket leak or a crack into the water jacket somewhere.
 
Is there any water in the oil?
is there any water coming out the exhaust?
have you replaced or tested the radiator cap?
does it pump the overflow full when it overheats? or even before it gets hot?

and for the love of god, never talk to that summit rep again. FYI, unless you call their dedicated tech line, you may be talking to a kid in sales, that was more than likely fired from autozone the week before. The turnover at that place is ridiculous, and if you can use their website, you more than likely have about the same amount of training that the "kids" do that start taking sales calls there. Corners are cut when you want to become the walmart of the automotive aftermarket. trust me on the above...let's just say i have based that observation on first hand experience. ;)
 
Bad Sport said:
Oh boy.
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My thoughts exactly.

I still don't understand why people ask for help, get solid advice from a bunch of people who actually know what they're talking about, don't follow that advice, and then wonder why they can't solve their problem.

I'm sure those dual 750s will cool the motor right off... :D
 
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