Paint Experts: Process Advice Needed

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mopowers

mopowers

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I've been cleaning up the inner sides of the deck lid/jam and doors/jams for my '66 Dart to get ready for paint. While cleaning them up and sanding the rough spots, I've sanded through to bare metal in some areas. Since I'm a couple months from actually shooting color on these panels, what's the best approach to protect them now and the process for when I actually get around to getting the finish sprayed?

Should I cover them in epoxy primer now, then when it comes time for finish, I could sand, cover in 2k sealer, followed by the single stage finish? Or is there another DTM product you'd recommend using now? Or perhaps I should spot prime the bare metal spots with self-etch, the scuff, spray w/ 2k sealer and finish when the time comes?

I've never really gotten this deep into paint work before, so I apologize ahead of time for the stupid question.

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Epoxy primer would be my choice. If your garage is relatively humidity free you could probably get by with regular primer but not worth the chance.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
Epoxy primer would be my choice. If your garage is relatively humidity free you could probably get by with regular primer but not worth the chance.
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There's not much humidity in my neck of the woods, especially this time of year. I just hate the idea of sanding the epoxy-primed panels when I re-seal and paint them down the road. That stuff never sands too well. Is there one that sands easier than most??
 
MoparMike1974 said:
Epoxy primer would be my choice. If your garage is relatively humidity free you could probably get by with regular primer but not worth the chance.
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He is right. Regular spray bomb primer works and looks OK, but it will allow moisture to pass through. If you do not have the ability (compressor - spray gun - etc.) to spray epoxy primer, I highly recommend the Eastwood Epoxy spray cans. They cost about $20 each, but they are a good alternative. Then have a vial inside the can that releases the hardener when you strike the bottom of the can. No mess, no fuss, and no cleaning the spray gun when you are done.
 
harrisonm said:
He is right. Regular spray bomb primer works and looks OK, but it will allow moisture to pass through. If you do not have the ability (compressor - spray gun - etc.) to spray epoxy primer, I highly recommend the Eastwood Epoxy spray cans. They cost about $20 each, but they are a good alternative. Then have a vial inside the can that releases the hardener when you strike the bottom of the can. No mess, no fuss, and no cleaning the spray gun when you are done.
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Thank you! I do have the equipment to spray epoxy primer, so that's no problem. Everytime I've tried to sand epoxy primer in the past, it's clogged the sand paper. I suppose I can cover it with some type of surfacer, but I don't plan to body work these panels since it's just the inner deck lid and jams. I'm just looking to cover them until I'm ready to shoot some sealer and paint them in a couple months.

Is there an epoxy primer that I could use now that won't be such a bear to sand in a few months when I shoot the sealer/paint?
 
mopowers said:
There's not much humidity in my neck of the woods, especially this time of year. I just hate the idea of sanding the epoxy-primed panels when I re-seal and paint them down the road. That stuff never sands too well. Is there one that sands easier than most??
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Southern polyurethanes epoxy primer.
 
I have been using TCP global custom shop epoxy lately and it sands/scuffs fine. Its not meant to be sanded smooth, just need to scuff it to get bite for the next layer. Sometimes I will spray epoxy and let it flash for an hour or two then come back with a coat of surfacer primer. No sanding required between coats typically for epoxy within 24 hours but check the tech sheet for the product your using.
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Spray epoxy primer on the metal surfaces first. Look on the epoxy spec sheet and see what the time window for recoating without sanding is, and spray your 2K right on top of the epoxy. No sanding needed on the epoxy if you spray the 2K within a certain amount of time. I use Southern Polyurethane epoxy, and I think it has a 72 hr. recoat window, but that time varies between MFG's.

When you are ready to spray color, just wet sand the 2K with 600, tack it off and squirt it!
 
^^^^I agree with JDMopar there. If I have the jams, under hood, decklid, etc ready, I would either epoxy prime and shoot color OR epoxy prime do the urethane high fill, and to desired smoothness, OR/and when readdy for color, sand that as in prep for color.
 
I don't think I'd worry too much about a little bare metal in Sacramento as long as you will have paint on it by November when the rainy season starts. I've been working on the roof sub structure on my car and am grinding/brushing all the rust off the untreated and unpainted surfaces. It's been sitting for a couple months with no protection and there's no sign of any corrosion or reaction on those areas. Now if there is uncovered bondo, that may be a different concern to get something on it.
 
mopowers said:
Thank you! I do have the equipment to spray epoxy primer, so that's no problem. Everytime I've tried to sand epoxy primer in the past, it's clogged the sand paper. I suppose I can cover it with some type of surfacer, but I don't plan to body work these panels since it's just the inner deck lid and jams. I'm just looking to cover them until I'm ready to shoot some sealer and paint them in a couple months.

Is there an epoxy primer that I could use now that won't be such a bear to sand in a few months when I shoot the sealer/paint?
Click to expand...
I have two things to say. First, I really like the TCP Global House brand primer. It is called Restoration Shop Epoxy Primer Sealer. It can be used as a sealer if you add some reducer. @MoparMike1974 beat me to that recommendation. Second, I use Indasa Sandpaper. I get the 2.5" wide PSA (sticky back) stuff in 50 foot rolls. I have used several brands (including 3M Gold), and I will say that the Indasa is the best I have used. It works GREAT for Block sanding primer and sanding filler work. I usually hit Epoxy with Indasa 120 grit on a sanding block lightly to break the surface and level it a bit; then I switch to 220 and then 320. I haven't had too much trouble. Don't sand too much. You want to leave a smooth 320 grit surface for primer and then paint. I always spray primer over the epoxy, so I can wet sand it for good looking paint.
 
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