Paint it, Clear it or Let It Rip?

Paint it? Clear it? Or let it Rip?


  • Total voters
    25
  • Poll closed .
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340inabbody

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Well?

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Any clear will yellow over time, BUT raw aluminum will look like infected dog butt in short order unless you paint it with something.
 
the only clear i've had any success with is VHT 1200 flame proof and applied following their directions to a T. it's held up and not yellowed much and seems to have a similar wear/lifespan as any other engine paint.

i would not leave it raw

duplicolor engine enamel is pretty good for the price and it's widely available. it also sprays pretty nice.
 
Not a fan of clear.. but definitely hit it with something.. don't leave it bare. I used regular engine enamel on mine and it's still holding up fine.

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all these photos and not a one of 'em after a few years of service.

i wanna see 'em at last call when the lights come up, not on the dance floor after the first two drinks.
 
all these photos and not a one of 'em after a few years of service.

i wanna see 'em at last call when the lights come up, not on the dance floor after the first two drinks.
Sprayed this LD4B in 2016 with SPI black epoxy primer. I didn't get the car on the road until Sept 2020. Pulled the intake off in Dec 2023 to replace with the SM intake posted above . A few chips and scrapes from bolts/washers. Intake pulled off the shelf and pic taken a few moments ago.

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So I think I have a winner! I was rummaging around the shop and found this. It’s definitely vintage lol but I am gonna try it! I just test fitted my manifold as I just got it back from the machine shop. Its perfect. We took off the thickness of the gasket ~ 0.065. Oh and it doesn’t really say Chevy on it it says MOPAR!

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I powder coat shop would be around 100 bucks. I got the factory black airgap a few years back. Thing still looks like new.
 
Check to see if your valve covers still fit with the new intake before you paint it. You may have to clearance one or the other.
Great call and feedback. Looks like you’ve been down this dusty road a few times before! Looks like I can use a little “off the too”. Wish I had hair….

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Have it ceramic coated and while you are at it have the inside thermal barrier coated.
 
Have it ceramic coated and while you are at it have the inside thermal barrier coated.
What and why is a thermal barrier? Don’t you want heat conduction for maximum dissipation though radiation?
 
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Great call and feedback. Looks like you’ve been down this dusty road a few times before! Looks like I can use a little “off the too”. Wish I had hair….

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Yep, on the 273 that I just built for my 65 Barracuda, I had to work the top of the intake runners over pretty good so the valve covers would fit right. My valve covers weren't even close to fitting because the block was decked to get it square, plus the heads were cut a good bit too because they were twisted like an airplane propeller.

One other tip I'll pass along is to use thread sealer on every one of your intake bolts so oil doesn't wick back up the bolts and puddle oil in the little valleys below the bolts.

I wish I could offer a good suggestion about coating the intake, but I don't have one. I bead blasted my Weiand intake for the 273 and bought really good aluminum paint that made it look really good. When we ran the motor on the dyno, we changed jets twice to see what worked best. Of course, gas dripped on the intake when we took the float bowls off to change jets. That made the great looking paint job wad up where the gas dripped! :BangHead:
 
I'll tell you a paint that's worked well for me in the past. Rustoleum Hammertone silver. I like it a lot because it kinda mimics how an intake looks, plus it's TOUGH.
 
I used my leftover Volvo-Penta outdrive paint on this old crusty gem..........

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Reading all this is making me wonder if I should paint my Edelbrock 2176 manifold. It looks so nice as bare aluminum, but it will oxidize in the future. Maybe a low or no gloss clear coat or that rustoleum aluminum color paint for it, idk.
 
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