Paint Or Undercoat?

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kend

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I replaced the floorpans in my Duster and I'm going to paint the inside but on the underside what would you suggest, paint? Undercoating? Rust Encapsulator?
 
..some cars never see rain after the project is finished.
How are you going to use your car?
 
I do por 15. Very happy but make sure you follow the instructions.
Rod
 
I painted my 66 Dart but used por 15 on my 66 Charger. IMO color coded paint looks better. And with any luck neither car will see any rain.
 
POR 15 is way overpriced, and is not a good dirt, dust and rust eliminator. I would use a good brand of epoxy primer, and then paint the same color underneath as the car will be.

If you are set on a POR 15 type of paint, just use Rustolem, its basically the same thing as POR-15, and costs less.

POR-15 is not meant to be used on new metal (your floor panels), and is questionable on blasted metal. It is very hard to paint over once it cures. If it is not applied right, it will come off in sheets.

Jut my .02. I know their are guys who swear by it, but buyer beware.

barracudadave67
 
This (wishing I new how to do that pointing up arrow thingy) What kind of look do you want? Bare steel can be tricky. Use a self etching primer before the epoxy. Life started sucking for autobody repair when they took the lead out of refinish products. Lead made it stick. The paint industry does seem to have a handle on it now. Look for products that say DTM. (Direct To Metal) Fusor makes some top of the line products. That old PPG DP product was awesome stuff until they took the lead out. Probably still the best bet though.

So YA... metal etch, PPG DP and Fusor sprayable seam sealer is my choice.
 
Like mentioned, what is the plan for your car??? Driver like pretty much daily? if so i wouldnt worry about the colour aspect, if your going to drive it seal the new panels and id undercoat it after...JM2C
 
I wouldn't use POR-15. It's a great product when used within its limits. It's supposed to be a rust convertor/encapsulator. It sticks really well to rusty old metal like it's designed to. But, it will not adhere to clean metal. I've made the mistake before on a camaro that I had replaced the floors on. It peeled off in large pieces.
 
Use rustoleum rust reformer,then go over it with there undercoating.You do not have to sand the rust reformer before applying the under coating.The under coating lays down nice.Do'nt waste your money on east wood stuff, rustoleum is as good as anything and a lot cheaper
 
I used bedliner spray tinted to match my body. This is on the way to becoming a hard driven 3 season driver. I used Monstaliner.
 

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This (wishing I new how to do that pointing up arrow thingy) What kind of look do you want? Bare steel can be tricky. Use a self etching primer before the epoxy. Life started sucking for autobody repair when they took the lead out of refinish products. Lead made it stick. The paint industry does seem to have a handle on it now. Look for products that say DTM. (Direct To Metal) Fusor makes some top of the line products. That old PPG DP product was awesome stuff until they took the lead out. Probably still the best bet though.

So YA... metal etch, PPG DP and Fusor sprayable seam sealer is my choice.

I also agree with this for sure, OR like the other member said, prime the bottom and have overspray on edges of bottom, like come factory. but I would if going for this use, DTM primer first, and then spay the grey Rustoleum type paint.

seems like ALL my projects came factory undercoated, which helped them live 50 years. I add undercoating to all mine because I drive them, not a racer, even though I doubt 5 lbs undercoat would slow me down!!!!!
 
^^you know darn well every pound off will make you faster and I find it highly unlikely that removing all your undercoating will only save you 5 lbs. -in fact, I wouldn't be surprised if it were more like 20-25 lbs. on an A-body
 
Undercoating on the floor pans will make the carpet stick to it...
 
Thanks for the info guys! It'll be a driver, no racing (that's what the Vega is for...) Also not looking for a restoration job, just close to stock and drive it when the weather is nice so I doubt it'll see much rain but the humidity we have here is terrible. Really don't care about the color, probably just paint everything underneath black.
 
in which case, seam seal and undercoat
Thanks for the info guys! It'll be a driver, no racing (that's what the Vega is for...) Also not looking for a restoration job, just close to stock and drive it when the weather is nice so I doubt it'll see much rain but the humidity we have here is terrible. Really don't care about the color, probably just paint everything underneath black.
 
LOL - you don't have direct experience.... do you?



Yes, I do, on some of the cars that I've stripped over the years. If you put carpet directly over undercoat, it will stick to it, especially over the years in the summer when the car heat soaks in the sun...


If you want to use undercoat under the carpet, at least cover it with paint or something to help keep if from sticking...
 
The best thing that I've ever heard of for protecting the floor boards is the old Imron/(Emron?) paint. I knew a guy who used it on a 71 Cuda floorboard and then needed to take it off to do a little more work later. He couldn't get that stuff off, even pounding it with a ball peen hammer, he couldn't get it to chip off at all... :violent1: #-o
 
yikes - undercoating inside the car! :wack: OP was about under the car.. "I'm going to paint the inside but on the underside what would you suggest, paint? Undercoating?..."
Yes, I do, on some of the cars that I've stripped over the years. If you put carpet directly over undercoat, it will stick to it, especially over the years in the summer when the car heat soaks in the sun...


If you want to use undercoat under the carpet, at least cover it with paint or something to help keep if from sticking...
 
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