Paint stripping without a D/A

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adriver said:
Since I'm sort of spread out, I have two twenty gallon 4 HP compressors located apart instead of one "big" one. The money investment would be about the same as one big one.
(Maybe a little more)
Except I've got redundancy, can hook up either place, use one to "repair" the other if necessary and hook them together for twice the capacity if needed.
(Air line verses voltage drop if you used a long extension cord)
Like for sand blasting and running high volume air.
Just throwing that out there.
I think electric is the way to go for most of us on the sanding thing.
Except that gets a little dicey if you are wet sanding.
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Iv actually considering this is it possible to hook two let's say 20 gallon ones together without back feeding into the other one?
 
As of July 1st, Aircraft stripper will no longer be available, most auto parts stores and hardware stores has pulled it , they have an aircraft stripper now in a spray can , but the ingredients has been changed, and its a large spray can , but doesn't last long , it all comes out in a large stream. Its also more expensive than regular paint remover, and doesn't do a very good job at stripping paint.
 
j par said:
Harbor Freight has electric hand Disc Sanders...
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I trashed one of those before I was half way done using it, so I went to Home depot and got a Makita.
No problems with that one.
The bearings went in the Harbor Freight sander.
 
TrailBeast said:
I trashed one of those before I was half way done using it, so I went to Home depot and got a Makita.
No problems with that one.
The bearings went in the Harbor Freight sander.
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I must have got lucky? I have had mine for a couple years now and used it on all kinds of crap and it's still going strong...
 
dartfreak75 said:
Iv actually considering this is it possible to hook two let's say 20 gallon ones together without back feeding into the other one?
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I guess you could with some sort of check valve set up.
I haven't found the need for that.
I have the regulators at about the same setting and they come on when needed just by putting a tee between them feeding the line I'm using.
One hand helps the other.
I like it because it gives me a back up.
I don't want to start a project (like painting) and have an equipment failure.
20 gallon tank.
If you do it, you want a "dual voltage" motor so you can move the wires on it to 220 and not 115.
This cuts the current draw in half.
And get a cast iron pump.
I had one on a OLD "Sear" branded unit that lasted me for over 30 years of heavy use.
The two I have now are both branded "Cambell Hausfield".
One I bought at a store (grey) some years ago.
And the other is a blue one I got "new" on Craigslist from a guy.
The good thing in this set up is portable too.
If you got one big stationary unit it can be in the way sometimes.

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Those flap discs will heat up your metal and worp it easily. You can strip with 80 grit on a DA, but on that right angle grinder and an 80 grip flap it will leave bad scratches that will take lots of sanding with finer grit to get rid of those scratches.
Paint striper is a nasty *** mess. Not so bad if original paint and willing to come loss. Like said, it has to be neutralized good, never get it into any seams!! It has to stay wet long enough, cover it with plastic, temp and humidity has an effect. Be prepared to cuss the stiff. Sanding with a good DA and a big compressor is best IMO.
 
I was running a small compressor to supplement mybig one when i was needle scaling a trailer frame a couple weeks ago.
Makes a big difference,the large one has time to cycle so it gets a bit of cool off time. The little one is tankless,its designed to run continous. I will be using this when im sandblasting next time.
 
Bought the china freight 5" electric sander for my 6 year old to use. I have 3M hook n loop sandpaper for a 6" DA, just cut them down for his with a utility knife, and using the one they gave me in the box with it as a template. We are using 80 grit to strip layers of paint off. Using 80 on a DA or orbital is a little slower, but like barbee6043 stated, its more kind to the metal. A flapwheel on an electric angle grinder will warp it, and divot the hell out of it. 5" china freight sander aint no 6" bluepoint DA but it gets the job done.

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Oh, and I used a wire wheel on a drill for seams and places I couldn't the sander into. And 80 grit works very well, but I went ahead and used a 120 grit or higher to smooth it more.
 
I use scotchbright rolocs for tight areas and good ole fashioned hand sanding. My buddy has a pressure pot blaster he was wanting to sell. I may just buy it for doing the engine compartment. 80 on a DA is just fine for bare metal concidering first layer will be a 2k epoxy. That will get scuffed and a high build blockable primer will go on top of it.
 
adriver said:
I guess you could with some sort of check valve set up.
I haven't found the need for that.
I have the regulators at about the same setting and they come on when needed just by putting a tee between them feeding the line I'm using.
One hand helps the other.
I like it because it gives me a back up.
I don't want to start a project (like painting) and have an equipment failure.
20 gallon tank.
If you do it, you want a "dual voltage" motor so you can move the wires on it to 220 and not 115.
This cuts the current draw in half.
And get a cast iron pump.
I had one on a OLD "Sear" branded unit that lasted me for over 30 years of heavy use.
The two I have now are both branded "Cambell Hausfield".
One I bought at a store (grey) some years ago.
And the other is a blue one I got "new" on Craigslist from a guy.
The good thing in this set up is portable too.
If you got one big stationary unit it can be in the way sometimes.

View attachment 1715334606
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I have my 60 gallon upright mounted to a square 1/2" thick aluminum plate with old craftsman tool box castors under it. Had people tell me it was gonna walk around when running. I set the castor locks and it doesnt move. The plus is i ran a drain standpipe off the bottom to a ball valve and a small clear plastic hose. Any water collects in brass standpipe and not the bottom of the tank, i hold the hose out the shop door and open the valve to drain it.
 
moparmat2000 said:
I have my 60 gallon upright mounted to a square 1/2" thick aluminum plate with old craftsman tool box castors under it. Had people tell me it was gonna walk around when running. I set the castor locks and it doesnt move. The plus is i ran a drain standpipe off the bottom to a ball valve and a small clear plastic hose. Any water collects in brass standpipe and not the bottom of the tank, i hold the hose out the shop door and open the valve to drain it.
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Do you have two independent pumps on it though?
:)
 
moparmat2000 said:
Bought the china freight 5" electric sander for my 6 year old to use. I have 3M hook n loop sandpaper for a 6" DA, just cut them down for his with a utility knife, and using the one they gave me in the box with it as a template. We are using 80 grit to strip layers of paint off. Using 80 on a DA or orbital is a little slower, but like barbee6043 stated, its more kind to the metal. A flapwheel on an electric angle grinder will warp it, and divot the hell out of it. 5" china freight sander aint no 6" bluepoint DA but it gets the job done.

View attachment 1715339258

View attachment 1715339259
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Mopar Matt and Mini Matt. Priceless photo!
 
dartfreak75 said:
Yea I'm using spi epoxy primer.
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SPI will say this also: IF treating metal with Ospho, be sure to neutralize it with water before appling their epoxy primer, You can get a reaction. I have used Ospho for maybe 7-8 years and works great for me especially on pitted metal or metal that I can not sand down to clean.
 
Envious. Neither of my boys were interested in my car hobby. Too much computer for them but they are good at it.
 
barbee6043 said:
SPI will say this also: IF treating metal with Ospho, be sure to neutralize it with water before appling their epoxy primer, You can get a reaction. I have used Ospho for maybe 7-8 years and works great for me especially on pitted metal or metal that I can not sand down to clean.
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That's interesting because I didn't use water afterwards. It did sit for several days until I sprayed it with an epoxy primer that is used on aircraft, but I scuffed the surface with a green scotchbrite pad, then washed with a solvent before primer. no rust issues yet......crossing my fingers. The primer I used has the best material for corrosion prevention.
 
Louie70Dart said:
That's interesting because I didn't use water afterwards. It did sit for several days until I sprayed it with an epoxy primer that is used on aircraft, but I scuffed the surface with a green scotchbrite pad, then washed with a solvent before primer. no rust issues yet......crossing my fingers. The primer I used has the best material for corrosion prevention.
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I was told that by the tech guy at Southern Polyurethanes. I have also read where if the epoxy primer has some acid , that can trigger a reaction. I have used the Ospho many times without neutralizing it, but it died at least 24 hours. I have also read where if not neutralized a reaction could occur months later?? I did apply some Rusteloem over bare rusty pitted metal I had snaded best i could cleaned with the Ospho and it did have a wrinkle in a couple of spots, but I was stuck great. Several years later, no problem, and I could hardly DA it off at all. I did it as an experiment.
 
This is the only issue I have had, but I have only made it as far as the hood so far. I don't think this was caused from the Ospho but paint issue. I just sanded it out and resprayed, very forgiving for blending. The hood is near the end of my thread in restorations
underside hood 2.jpg
 
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