Pertronics ballast resistor removal question

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Slowswinger

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I installed a pertronics 2 on a slant 6. There are two blue wires in one plug on one side of the ballast resistor and two brown wires in one plug on the other side of the ballast resistor. When removing the ballast resistor for the pertronics unit do both brown wires get connected to both blue wires or does one of the blue wires and one of the brown wires stay connected to the ballast resistor for something else?
 
You want to join the two connectors. There are male crimp-on available like the terminals on the ballast, get two of those, and a #12 insulated wire about 2 inches long. Strip the end to crimp on the terminals. Plug in the connectors, to your near zero Ohm ballast replacement. Insulate again the whole thing if you want to keep it from ever pulling apart or shorting to ground. Zip tie to harness, it becomes almost invisible.

Some cut the connectors and splice, but not easy go back for original.
 
I don't know enough about Petronic. Does it replace the OEM ignition module ?
Does it include a E coil that will operate on full 12 volts ?
 
KitCarlson, thanks for the info, I think I will shrink wrap the whole thing from connector to connector.
RedFish, the pertronics unit replaces the points in the distributor in pre EI cars/trucks and the directions say to remove/bypass the ballast resistor. On my 72 dart there were two wires connected to each side of the resistor, I just didn't know if both were to be connected or if one of each still needed to be connected to the resistor for some other function.
 
Slowswinger said:
I installed a pertronics 2 on a slant 6. There are two blue wires in one plug on one side of the ballast resistor and two brown wires in one plug on the other side of the ballast resistor. When removing the ballast resistor for the pertronics unit do both brown wires get connected to both blue wires or does one of the blue wires and one of the brown wires stay connected to the ballast resistor for something else?
Click to expand...
Lets say your ballast resistor is laying down where there are to terminals at each end.
Basically you just want to consider it like there is a wire for the two top terminals, and a wire for the two bottom terminals.
Connect the two wires that go to the two top terminals together, and the two bottom terminals together.

This is crude, but just figure you want to bypass the red coils in this pic.





RedFish said:
I don't know enough about Petronic. Does it replace the OEM ignition module ? Yes
Does it include a E coil that will operate on full 12 volts ?
Click to expand...
No, just the module that triggers the spark of the coil.
But even the original style coil can run with a Pertronics unit without a ballast resistor due to the low dwell time.
HEI coils can be used with the Pertronics unit also.


 

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TrailBeast said:
Lets say your ballast resistor is laying down where there are to terminals at each end.
Basically you just want to consider it like there is a wire for the two top terminals, and a wire for the two bottom terminals.
Connect the two wires that go to the two top terminals together, and the two bottom terminals together.

This is crude, but just figure you want to bypass the red coils in this pic.





No, just the module that triggers the spark of the coil.
But even the original style coil can run with a Pertronics unit without a ballast resistor due to the low dwell time.
HEI coils can be used with the Pertronics unit also.
Click to expand...

And a 5 pin ign' module will live without that half of the dual ballast resistor ?
 
When you short the ballast, the five pin module is enjoying retirement elswhere, it lives on. The Pertronix or HEI is now doing proper dwell and current limits, so the coil is happy too.
 
KitCarlson said:
When you short the ballast, the five pin module is enjoying retirement elswhere, it lives on. The Pertronix or HEI is now doing proper dwell and current limits, so the coil is happy too.
Click to expand...

And another way to put that is that you/he can unplug the old Mopar box and stick it in a box somewhere. (or save some poor sap on the side of the road that had a box fail) :) That's where mine went, and he came back the next day for one of my HEI kits and got free installation.
Actually, you could even cut all those wires back to the harness if you want like I did.
I will make zero difference in anything else, and I personally will never go back to the OEM ignition anyway.
 
OK so the petronics unit replaces pickup coil and ign' module.
 
Has anyone determined!!!???!!! Whether the OP should even be bypassing the resistor at all?

As many know, I'm not really a Pertronix fan, unless you wish to carry a spare
 
67Dart273 said:
Has anyone determined!!!???!!! Whether the OP should even be bypassing the resistor at all?

As many know, I'm not really a Pertronix fan, unless you wish to carry a spare
Click to expand...

I sure haven't LOL I'm not planning to get petronics or anything other than OEM, just asking questions that may help thread starter and others.
 
I used trailbeast set up and feel it cant be beat, for the money. Tons less than msd and gets the job done just as good. He should have trailbeast stickers but that would take the price up.
 
Was not directed at you Red, just "in general."

'My take' on Pertronix..................

Just like Mopar, they require a ballast IF THE COIL requires a ballast

Now this is not as simple as it sounds!!!!! Some of the old performance coils, such as the big 'ol Mallory rectangular, and the old huge giant not to mention BIG Accel coil BOTH required a proprietary ADDITIONAL ballast IN SERIES with the original

You are not only looking at "what the electronics can handle" in terms of power and current, you are looking at whether the COIL can stand the gaff

It is my 'take' that Pertronix, just like points, or the Mopar ECU require pretty much whatever the coil requires FOR LONG TERM street use.

HEI, and MSD, (and other CDI) is a completely different story

Jus' 'n 'xample, the ol Mallory "Voltmaster" coil:
 

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The directions did say to bypass/remove the ballast resistor.
Trailbeast, thanks for the info, this is my first step to get ready for your HEI kit.
67dart273, from what I have read from other posts the trade off seems to be worth the $$ to carry a spare unit in the trunk, if it ever goes out.
 
Slowswinger said:
trade off seems to be worth the $$ to carry a spare unit in the trunk, if it ever goes out.
Click to expand...

This IS my attitude. I don't actually have anything against Pertronix, other than 'if' they quit, you need to be able to fix 'em, and parts stores normally don't have 'em
 
Slowslinger,
Can you state the model# of your Pertronix unit? My recollection was that the original "Ignitor" (still being sold) normally requires a ballast. If the better "Ignitor II" or "Ignitor II", no ballast is needed. II is equivalent to a GM HEI module, and III adds multi-spark. If you do have the "Ignitor" and it says to remove the ballast, I have been telling people wrong for some time.
 
Bill,
I don't have the box with me but I am positive it is the ignitor 2 version. I will post a picture with the model number when I get home. Thanks again.
 
moparfreak77 said:
Can you run your stock coil with the ignitor 2 or is their coil needed?
Click to expand...

Yes you can run a stock coil, but you will only have the factory spark strength.
Add an HEI Ecoil and you have a much more powerful ignition.

I know people say "I don't need a stronger spark" when in fact you will get better starts cold or hot, smoother more stable idle and a lot of HEI users get better gas mileage than they did with factory parts.
The pertronics unit is just a switch, but the coil is what makes the real difference.
 
Lelo Dart said:
I just wrapped a wire around the pins and plugged the connectors back in. Looks stock.
Click to expand...

That works too. :)
I wanted all that stuff gone along with all the associated wiring for it as well as the module.
 

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Many choices in e-core coils. I got a $20 after-market one (China) from Steve White Performance when I bought the HEI distributor. It has thumb screws, so easy hookup. The GM "external coil" in TrailBeast photo is easy to connect to that GM 8-pin HEI module (factory GM cable), but wouldn't be as simple for an Ignitor. The Mopar Magnum engine coil works if you snip off the connector too. Then there are the red & yellow after-market stuff for $$$.
 
BillGrissom said:
Slowslinger,
Can you state the model# of your Pertronix unit? My recollection was that the original "Ignitor" (still being sold) normally requires a ballast. If the better "Ignitor II" or "Ignitor II", no ballast is needed. II is equivalent to a GM HEI module, and III adds multi-spark. If you do have the "Ignitor" and it says to remove the ballast, I have been telling people wrong for some time.
Click to expand...
you dont have to worry, you are correct. i have the original ignitor #1381a and it states do not remove the ballast resister.
 
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