Pertronix II users

[canyncarvr]

There is a 50/50 chance of getting the p/up phasing wrong. You would soon know it because the engine will run like crap, backfiring etc.

That is what post #1 says is happening.

The Pertronix has the pick up coil inside the ignition module. No way to reverse wire it unless you cut the module apart. The only wires to the Pertronix are 12v power and coil negative. I don't think you would get any spark at all if you get those reversed. You could have trouble but still sort of run if you have the coil positive and negative backwards.

This sounds like a case of "90% of carburetor problems are the ignition." I would make sure there isn't anything loose and the gap between the Pertronix and the ring of magnets is not too wide. Also check to be sure the rotor makes good contact with the cap, no loose screws, and no issues with wire splices.

Got it. I take it all back, then. Many apologies.

It can't be a problem with the Pertronix 'cuz it came from the bay and was only used for ONE donut run. All things from the bay are all good all the time. Everybunny knows you can't argue with that.

...in this case, 'donut' maybe being a misspell of 'it don't'.

 

[Icetech]

got any buddies with a mopar you could throw it into to see if the problem moves with the dist? be a real quick test... then you know.

 

[22dog22]

Thank you all for your replies, as far as the gap for the module in the Pertronix dist. on the Ignitor II there is no adjustment, there is no slot where you screw the Ignitor II to mounting plate inside of the Pertronix dist. As stated there is only a red and black wire to hook to the coil can not get that wrong, my friend and myself have triple check firing order, again at this point, all parts have been replaced,and power for the ignition 1&2, have power, correct power values, Pertronix dist, bought new but I think because of the in correct coil I damaged the original unit the the dist so that is why I changed it for a known new unit, as stated have the correct new coil that Pertronix calls for, replaced all spark plug wires 8mm inc. the coil wire, new spark plugs, as states played with the plug gaps, to best of my ability, have zeroed in on .045 gap on the plugs. Have played with timing that seems to not do any good to in prove the way the engine runs. I have my old Holley carb. which was leaking from the front fuel bowl gasket, did replace gasket , and at some point in this whole process did reinstall early on before I replaced all the above parts. I did, just not to long ago , reinstalled it but was leaking badly at the fuel inlet line, I at this time ordering new Holley inlet fitting gaskets to replace them so I can try my old carb. my friend and I are leaning towards a carb. issue, as stated, after installing the new plugs, car still barley runs, and now will not take any gas[ accelerate ], when running the exhaust smells like running very lean??,[ Again have a new Holley 4160 electric choke carb.] with the new plugs have had them out 4 times playing with the gaps all times they look like new , no carbon or other build up on them. Now they do not have much run time on them , because the way engine runs, I do not keep it running for not wanting to cause engine damage. The thing is it will start up , run some what kind of good for a few seconds, then start to run very badly shaking, then just about stop running at that point I just shut it off!

 

[canyncarvr]

SOMEone in your area has a DC/Mallory distributor you could pop in and diagnose the problem in a minute. I have one I'd be glad to send...but I'm on the left coast. Shipping cost and time wasted would be...well...too much cost and a waste of time.

So: Who on FABO knows a PA person with a distributor this guy can try? There are prolly only a few hundred of 'em. Ask them if they can help with this thread.

 

[Icetech]

like 3/4 this forum is in PA... isn't hoppy even in pa? and he has like 300 dists laying around.. and could diag that one in seconds

 

[canyncarvr]

like 3/4 this forum is in PA... isn't hoppy even in pa? and he has like 300 dists laying around.. and could diag that one in seconds

I think he is...but I didn't want to name anyone in particular.

To the OP: I would suggest you read through this thread. There are a number of questions/suggestions I don't see you have responded to or answered.

Like: Check voltage at the coil. Are you using a ballast resistor? Maybe I missed your responses to them...in which case, sorry #2.

An overheated coil can give you sparky problems that will drive you nuts. You say the engine runs OK for a short period of time, then messes up. That could be an overheated coil. I see ZERO mention of how long you leave the key ON with the engine NOT running. Maybe you don't even think about it. DO turn the key off if the engine is not running

Key ON no RUN? THAT will heat stuff up.

IF you have a ballast sitting around...hook it up.

OR...just remove the shunt you (maybe) have on the ballast block.

I think you are running around in circles trying to fix problems that don't exist...and causing OTHER maybe future problems.

Gapping plugs at .045" 'fer instance.

Plug gap is NOT your problem. It WASN'T your problem, either.

 

[Icetech]

shouldn't have a ballast with pertronix... i have one but it's got a bypass wire in it

 

[canyncarvr]

Yes...but. IF the coil is overheating (engine runs OK at start, then starts fussing the OP says), a ballast might help. IF the engine runs OK for twice as long as it did? That would tell you the coil may well be overheating.

Re:

This sounds like a case of "90% of carburetor problems are the ignition."

Sounds reasonable.

The plug-gap-changing carb-swapping merry-go-round is not likely helpful...and very possibly going to lead to some other problems.

 

[22dog22]

As stated, I have the Pertronix, system no ballast resister is used/needed needs full voltage, will check coil temp. and NO I DO NOT KEEP THE KEYON IN THE RUN POSTION AND ENGINE NOT RUNNING. The coil Pertronix calls for, only has .6ohms resistance.

 

[canyncarvr]

As stated, I have the Pertronix, system (1)no ballast resister is used/needed (2) needs full voltage, (3)will check coil temp.

1. That the Pertronix coil does not require the use of a ballast resister is not the point. The point is: Does the engine react well to one being added.

2. That does not mean you HAVE 'full voltage' at the coil.

3. The question is not, 'What is the temperature of your coil?' The question is, 'Is your coil overheating?'

A sensible, reasonable way to determine if your coil is overheating is to replace it, see if the symptoms change.

Any auto ignition coil would do. One from a junkyard (that meters out well), one from some other car that has one.

 

[MV8]

"Starts" is a broad term. A video of the engine (throttle side with air cleaner off) cold, initial starting could be helpful. Fuel pressure/level keeping up? Mix screws checked for initial run setting before adjusting? Electric choke not opening quick enough/at all (rotate to hold full open for now)? Vac ports capped? Year-old ethanol and open tank vent water mix in the bottom of the tank (try pulling fresh from a can)?

 

[22dog22]

Update on running issue. where to start!, ok have installed the replacement Ignitor II module in the Pertronix dist. as per the directions. Again there is no ballast inplace.,Replaced the spark plug with new Champion RJ14yc plugs, Car will now start, will run for about 20-30 sec. then start to run rough, and keeps getting worse till it shuts off.[ less then1 min.] , Took of the New Holley carb. thinking it was not getting enough fuel, have a see thought fuel filter at carb. can see it is getting fuel also have a pressure gauge there is at about 6psi, which should be good for a carb. have reinstalled my old Holley which was leaking from the front fuel bowl, replaced that gasket, got fuel bowls filled , car stated seems at first it was going to run as it should', maybe 30-40 sec. started to do the same thing, I opened the fuel gas cap to may sure no vapor lock, on the next try when car was started sprayed carb cleaner all around to check for a vac. leak, next try unhooked the power brake booster, made sure all vac. lines/caps where not leaking , next try, ran a wire from + on coil to battery + to rule out ignition switch/ wiring problem. checked the coil to see if it was getting hot, but avg. room temp. Have a photo of the Champion plugs, the plug outer contact looks blacker then it really is, it does show the cut off, I am not sure if this is a correct heat range plug/firing correctly ?

 

[CRUZE 418]

Timing chain good? How long have you owned the car.

 

[22dog22]

the engine was completely rebuild by a local Mopar engine builder,[ Wayne Hyrowick], I installed the engine, car ran fine for more then 3 years, it has only about a little over 500 miles on it. Has a Comp. cam 20-223-3, Keith Black 167 at .30 over pistons, Hasting Piston rings, Comp. cam valve springs, & lifters. Power Bond Harmonic Damper, SBI 1.880 intake valve, 1.5 exhaust valves. Alum. intake, Holley 4 barrel 600 cfm carb, ITT header, with 2 1/2 stainless exhaust with x pipe,

 

[1969383S]

I use The Pertronix Ignitor III with my old point dizzy, with the correct recommended Pertronix coil. 383, 292/509, zero deck, TRW .30 over forged FT. I run Pump rec90 with shim .020 head gaskets.
The ballast is in place but bypassed from behind with a solid piece of 12awg to hide it. Timing is initial 18 deg @900 and all in to 36 deg at 2k total. No Knock or fade! 800 CFM AVS Eddy.
3500 Stall 727, 3.55 gear. Cruise great at 185 degree and long idle at 195! Perfect BB A-body Factory Example IMO! With a few Day 2 upgrades!

 

[RustyRatRod]

What heads are on this engine?

 

[MV8]

If you work the throttle/accel pump as it is about to die, does it make a difference? You said you checked the fuel pressure but what is it just before it dies (run a tee with a 1/8npt port for a FP gauge and a short hose to plumb)? Timing light to watch flashing for spark timing changes or failure just before it dies? System voltage monitored from crank to stall?