Peyote's 3D Printed Dash Updates

[KevinB]

I'll be sending my model off for the prototype print in a day or two. I'm having to tweak things after taking out the existing instrument cluster and taking some final measurements. This isn't the final version yet, still got some tweaking to do. But it's getting close. I expect to have some trimming to do where the two large gauges will hit the bottom edge of the cluster opening, hopefully that will be all. Still figuring out the mounting method. Easiest right now seems to be to put some pockets for square nuts on this thing, and bolt through from the back using the existing holes. We'll see in the next couple of days what I decide on.

In this render you'll see a couple of shapes near the bottom, I'll use those to punch out a hole for the steering column once everything is finalized.

Once I send the file off I should have the piece in under two weeks. Total print time I believe will be around 38 hours.

 

[qkcuda]

That sounds neat. Looking forward to see the finished product.

 

[magnummopar]

Nice! What material are you thinking of using?

 

[Abodybomber]

I likey.....

 

[KevinB]

Pla for the test print, abs for the real thing. Getting closer to sending the file...

 

[magnummopar]

keep me updated, it looks really good. Would solve a lot of issues. Do 64-66 bolt up the same?

 

[KevinB]

keep me updated, it looks really good. Would solve a lot of issues. Do 64-66 bolt up the same?

I'm not sure, but I'm hoping that my prototype will be very close to working with very little trimming, so if you have a couple of models in that era with empty dashes I'd be happy to loan it to you so we could find out. If it matches then theoretically the final product would work on other years.

 

[66Dvert]

66's do it a little differently. here is an original style I modified to work with mine for right now

modified

stock

and my proposed setup for the aftermarket gauges. I'm still working on the radio delete/ac/heater and glove box bezel that is close to the curvature of the original bezel's contoure.
from left to right Oil, Temp, Fuel. The big ones are speedo and tach. far right is voltmeter
they have all been sized for standard aftermarlet gauges and keep the stock light, wiper and ignition switch.

yours looks similar to mine except for the steering column cutout (66'sare lower on the bezel) in the next working version of the bezel I even have sculpted in arrows for the turn signal on either side of the bigger gauges and hi beam in between them

 

[KevinB]

Latest Version..Just need to finish the knob holes and the fastener pockets

 

[KevinB]

66's do it a little differently. here is an original style I modified to work with mine for right now

yours looks similar to mine except for the steering column cutout (66'sare lower on the bezel) in the next working version of the bezel I even have sculpted in arrows for the turn signal on either side of the bigger gauges and hi beam in between them

Turn signal arrows are a good idea...how are you going to light them? Will they just be holes, or will they be holes with a piece of colored translucent plastic behind them?

 

[4spdragtop]

Cool! Looking fwd to finished product.

 

[magnummopar]

Just so happens I have a 64, 65 and 66. Might need a little tweaking between 64-65 and the 66 but not much. My brother does lots of machine and fab work, he said print for vacuum mold because the print will only be strong in 2 directions, not 3. Thats also a very large print. He deals with a vacuum molding company fairly regularly, the mold is what gets expensive unless you do it in house. We have a vacuum oven for small stuff but not big enough for a dash panel.

 

[KevinB]

Just so happens I have a 64, 65 and 66. Might need a little tweaking between 64-65 and the 66 but not much. My brother does lots of machine and fab work, he said print for vacuum mold because the print will only be strong in 2 directions, not 3. Thats also a very large print. He deals with a vacuum molding company fairly regularly, the mold is what gets expensive unless you do it in house. We have a vacuum oven for small stuff but not big enough for a dash panel.

I've thought about the potential strength issue, and as of right now I'm not concerned because

A. The layer lines (weaker axis) will be vertical when looking at this from front view, which means most of the stress is on the stronger axises
B. I will have a test print to play with and examine this issue
C. I've been considering laying a few strips of fiberglass on the backside of the piece for rigidity. I believe epoxy resin sticks to ABS but need to investigate
D. The curved section is obviously stronger, having a curve in it. The flat section is over 1/4" thick, nearly 5/16". The minimum thickness for an unsupported ABS print is 1.5mm. Mine is 7.62mm.

Vacuum forming adds a whole extra layer of production that I have to pay for. I don't see it being part of this process in terms of my own dash getting made

 

[KevinB]

Also regarding the strength concern, I realize I haven't shared and renders of the back where I had added gussets for strength. Please forgive the shoddy render and unfinished nature

 

[66Dvert]

Turn signal arrows are a good idea...how are you going to light them? Will they just be holes, or will they be holes with a piece of colored translucent plastic behind them?

dang yours is looking good.


they will be arrow shaped cutouts with a green plastic lens or green led in it. I'm not sure which would be better at this time, I'm leaning towards pouring green tinted acrylic plastic into the arrow shaped cutouts and embedding green leds into the plastic. This project is #7 on my list of todo's.
I have a :
1. molded kick panel with speakers in it that I have to remold for my vacu-form (63-66 a bodies slimline versions are available to be made now) but I'm looking into5.25 round 2.5 " deep with the option to cut a hole in and fit the 2" mini speaker also or a 4"x6" speaker kick panel to match the rear convertible side panel I plan on making also #8.
2. a dash pad for my 66 dart I want to make for production (vinyl that is thermo-formable is on order) and base metal parts are changing into molded .125 ABS. (63-66 darts first then 63-66 plymouth last)
3. rear arm rest pads for my 66 convertible. (started the main master part with no ashtray)
4. top trim for the above rear side panels. molds almost perfect now just figuring how to cut it out using a jig.
5. front (the rear set) of splash shields made from ABS so they don't rust again.
6. top wing vent divider cushions for the convertible and hard top( convertible molds are made and waiting on approval of the wife for cosmetic's)
and then
7. the complete Dash board bezel setup for the 66 dart, that includes the instrument cluster ,radio bezel and glove box door plus end pieces for the GT
series cars. oh and learn how to spray chrome in the process.
8. main rear sidepanels for the 63-66 convertibles (just add your trim and carpet) with a 4"x6" speaker molded into the front down leg of the part.

so as you can see it's pretty far down the list.

 

[magnummopar]

Peyote, watch your depth on the bezel, aftermarket gauges have a very limited depth if they go in from the front, you will want to keep it under a 1/2" or you will run out of mounting stud threads.

 

[KevinB]

Wow that's quite a list you have going, dvert...I look forward to seeing your finished work

 

[KevinB]

Peyote, watch your depth on the bezel, aftermarket gauges have a very limited depth if they go in from the front, you will want to keep it under a 1/2" or you will run out of mounting stud threads.

I assume you're referring to the mounting ring thickness part of the bezel, which is well under that at .2"

 

[magnummopar]

No I was talking about depth of mounting hole, aftermarket gauges have limited range of depth they can clamp on to.

 

[KevinB]

No I was talking about depth of mounting hole, aftermarket gauges have limited range of depth they can clamp on to.

I think that's the part I'm thinking of...the threaded section of the cup between the backside of the bezel and the front of the locking ring? If that's not what you mean you might have to draw me a picture lol

 

[KevinB]

More progress tonight...holes for ignition, wipers, and lights are done...left side nut pockets are done...steering column cut out...now time for sleep.

 

[KevinB]

Ok here's what I think is the final version of the prototype...Just about ready to print

 

[Phreakish]

I've had quite a few experiences with 3d printing.

Your design is excellent, but I think ABS in an FDM process is going to disappoint. The build layers being perpendicular to your circular openings almost certainly means they won't be round.

ABS worries me also. Being exposed to UV and the heat inside a car will likely mean a short lifespan before it warps or fails. Unless you have a friend willing to do it on the cheap, I'd avoid FDM for this part.

Personally, for the effort, I'd look into a glass filled Nylon 12 done in an SLS process. It won't require support structure during the print - which means less cost for trimming post-print and less machine time making the supports. The print also won't be as 'tall' which means less cost in the process. The surface finish of SLS is better than FDM, and the Nylon 12 glass-filled is super strong and far more UV resistant. The build layers would also most likely wind up normal to the bore axis of the gauge openings which means round holes - I'd ensure the place doing the work does it in that orientation. The surface of SLS nylon is a little porous which means it will take paint/primer/filler VERY well and can wind up very smooth. It starts smoother than FDM (unless you do a vapor smoothing on the FDM, but UV will ruin it anyway). The strength in all 3 axes is also far closer to equal since a laser sinters each layer together.

Not a knock, just my .02 after probably $100k in prototypes over 8 years in all kinds of materials and processes (FDM, SLS nylon, DMLS 17-4 stainless, SLS carbon fiber reinforced nylon, SLA, urethane castings, and PolyJet).

 

[KevinB]

I've had quite a few experiences with 3d printing.

Your design is excellent, but I think ABS in an FDM process is going to disappoint. The build layers being perpendicular to your circular openings almost certainly means they won't be round.

ABS worries me also. Being exposed to UV and the heat inside a car will likely mean a short lifespan before it warps or fails. Unless you have a friend willing to do it on the cheap, I'd avoid FDM for this part.

Personally, for the effort, I'd look into a glass filled Nylon 12 done in an SLS process. It won't require support structure during the print - which means less cost for trimming post-print and less machine time making the supports. The print also won't be as 'tall' which means less cost in the process. The surface finish of SLS is better than FDM, and the Nylon 12 glass-filled is super strong and far more UV resistant. The build layers would also most likely wind up normal to the bore axis of the gauge openings which means round holes - I'd ensure the place doing the work does it in that orientation. The surface of SLS nylon is a little porous which means it will take paint/primer/filler VERY well and can wind up very smooth. It starts smoother than FDM (unless you do a vapor smoothing on the FDM, but UV will ruin it anyway). The strength in all 3 axes is also far closer to equal since a laser sinters each layer together.

Not a knock, just my .02 after probably $100k in prototypes over 8 years in all kinds of materials and processes (FDM, SLS nylon, DMLS 17-4 stainless, SLS carbon fiber reinforced nylon, SLA, urethane castings, and PolyJet).

I appreciate your input...I'll look into that method as well

 

[Phreakish]

I appreciate your input...I'll look into that method as well

There's a place in Austin that does the SLS work I'm familiar with. Don't use their online quote tool, it tends to run 50% to 200% higher than a quote from an engineer. If you have a company name, real or otherwise, they'll likely take you more seriously and get you a decent price.