jrlegacy23
68 Barracuda
Disconnect and plug off the vacuum advance when you time it.
I pulled the dizzy, turned the gear so that the #1 was pointing at the first driver's side intake bolt and reinstalled. !
Disconnect and plug off the vacuum advance when you time it.
That wasn't it, you must have had the timing wrong or bad wires or you had the wires mixed up.
The dist might well not have been tight enough and it slip when the base got wet as you started the motor in the car wash.
Soooo, when are you going back to the car wash again,:angel4:
Please don't take this the wrong way but if you know of a good shop for older cars near by you might want to have them give it a tune up, they might get it running better yet. The dist might need to be re-curved, the carb tweet with, maybe next spring..sure be cheaper than a new motor.
I would change the oil soon to protect the cam
start off with spraying and wiping the inside of the distributor with wd-40, if that don't cure it start pullin off plug wires from the distributor cap one at a time and replacin em till ya find the dead cylinder (this can be a shocking experience) (but it's good for the soul) when ya locate the dead cylinder.....check the plug,replace the plug whatever works..........then pull the valve cover if that didn't fix it....see how far the pushrod went thru the rocker.....if that didn't happen then spin the motor over with coil wire disconnected at the coil.....if it resembles my ex wifes chest then you have camatosis(absense of cam lobe) thats not good......if you have camatosis then all that metal from the cam lobe and the bottom of the lifter is inside the engine......i'd recomend going thru that puppie
Having the oil pump drive gear a tooth off really does not matter, because you can rotate the distributor to compensate.
I agree with this! 2 teeth off= 90 deg. of rotation, to compensate, thats a bunch.I've seen this statement on here before and it's not true. It does matter. As you rotate the distributor to compensate you also change the phasing of the reluctor in relation to the pickup. So now you have the rotor lined up with the terminal in the cap but it didn't fire at that time. It fired either before or after the terminal. This can cause crossfiring as the spark has to jump a longer gap. Increased voltage to jump that gap can lead to a weak spark at the plug as the voltage has been used up jumping the rotor to cap terminal gap.
Now on just a regular street car this may or may not be a big deal but on a high performance engine with higher cylinder pressure, low vacuum at idle and high powered ignition systems it becomes more critical. Take an extra minute or two and set it up correctly, you'll save yourself a lot of headaches later.
I've seen this statement on here before and it's not true. It does matter. As you rotate the distributor to compensate you also change the phasing of the reluctor in relation to the pickup. So now you have the rotor lined up with the terminal in the cap but it didn't fire at that time. It fired either before or after the terminal. This can cause crossfiring as the spark has to jump .
I've seen this statement on here before and it's not true. It does matter. As you rotate the distributor to compensate you also change the phasing of the reluctor in relation to the pickup. So now you have the rotor lined up with the terminal in the cap but it didn't fire at that time. It fired either before or after the terminal. This can cause crossfiring as the spark has to jump a longer gap. Increased voltage to jump that gap can lead to a weak spark at the plug as the voltage has been used up jumping the rotor to cap terminal gap.
Now on just a regular street car this may or may not be a big deal but on a high performance engine with higher cylinder pressure, low vacuum at idle and high powered ignition systems it becomes more critical. Take an extra minute or two and set it up correctly, you'll save yourself a lot of headaches later.
Does not matter as long as the vacuum advance clears the firewall or intake manifold...
I loved following along and reading through 4 pages of stuff to find out I was right.....(its usually ends up being a spark plug wire breaking down, or ignition related) 4 pages back.
Glad a $13 set of wires fixed ya up!
How about a burnout video for us all now?
:burnout:
Jimmyray, I know you and a couple other guys are going back and forth on the distributor issue. I don't know enough to comment on who is right or who is wrong, so I will throw this out for you all to chew on. When I posted the pics of the dizzy and the reluctor was off the pick up, I had the timing marks at zero. The rotor was pointing straight down the middle of the car. I pulled the dizzy, turned the gear so the rotor was pointing at the front left intake bolt, set the timing mark at zero and the reluctor lined up dead on the pick up. I have heard it said it wouldn't matter where the gear was, and I agreed, but apparently it does make a difference. Or I screwed something up ... as usual!
So, is this guy selling snake-oil?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopa...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item336a7d98d0
Did you reset your timing before you observed the alignment? If not, your timing is set to 0 degrees.
So, is this guy selling snake-oil?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopa...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item336a7d98d0