Hey there Mopar buds. My barracuda's all stripped and ready to go to the paint shop, but first I'm having trouble with the oil pan to centerlink clearance. The centerlink looks to interfere with the oil pan at a little past half-lock when I turn. I put a brand new 360 LA\Magnum hybrid engine in it (This one: http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/parts/mn2472.html ). I'm wondering if maybe the 65's used a different pan to clear the steering linkage vs what came with the crate motor (I'm not sure if it's a truck pan, or a later model pan). What do y'all think? Thanks for the help! ](*,):violent2:
PLEASE help! 360 vs 273 oil pans different?
- Thread starter Novacuda
- Start date
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Denvermike
Well-Known Member
Did your Barracuda come with a /6 engine? If so you need to change the center link to one for a V-8. Also called a dropped center link. I know this is the way with the 66 Barracudas and I think yours would be the same. What are you using for motor mounts and an exhaust system? Don't tease us too much, lets see some pictures.
Mike
Mike
Yes. You cannot interchange the 360 oil pan with the other small blocks. They are unique for 360's because of the rear seal is different.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
By the look of the picture in the add it looks like a standard center sump car pan that is used on all models, including your early A. My guess is the problem is what DenverMike referred to. You need a V8 center link
Thanks for your interest guys. This car was an original 273 V8. I'm the second owner, it has sat since 1975, no rust. It's the crate engine I linked to above, with a PA Performance 904 & Torque Converter, Dougs Headers, MSD Ignition, and CPP power disk brake conversion. The swap mounts I used are the Schumacher Performance mount kit. It's a barn find I guess you could call it. I stripped/prepped/painted the engine bay before installing the engine. Please excuse the picture quality, my digicam was dead and I had to use my cell phone.
Here's the centerlink area, and you can see on the side of the pan where it's scraped from rubbing/interference.
Do y'all see anything wrong? I can't for the life of me figure out why it's rubbing, and this problem's all that's holding me back from driving it to the paint shop and I'm going absolutely nuts. :banghead:
Thanks guys!
Another thread, a guy ended up giving the pan a few whacks with a hammer and eliminated having to change the pan.
Just a suggestion. Quick easy fix....
Just a suggestion. Quick easy fix....
66plyValiant
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your interest guys. This car was an original 273 V8. I'm the second owner, it has sat since 1975, no rust. It's the crate engine I linked to above, with a PA Performance 904 & Torque Converter, Dougs Headers, MSD Ignition, and CPP power disk brake conversion. The swap mounts I used are the Schumacher Performance mount kit. It's a barn find I guess you could call it. I stripped/prepped/painted the engine bay before installing the engine. Please excuse the picture quality, my digicam was dead and I had to use my cell phone.
Here's the centerlink area, and you can see on the side of the pan where it's scraped from rubbing/interference.
Do y'all see anything wrong? I can't for the life of me figure out why it's rubbing, and this problem's all that's holding me back from driving it to the paint shop and I'm going absolutely nuts. :banghead:
Thanks guys!
looks like one of two things could be wrong, its either the wrong engine mount rubber isolators or wrong center link
nerd racing
Well-Known Member
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I'm pretty sure mine rubs there too. I've seen that dent on my current pan. What number is stamped into your pan? (64 Barracuda with a 360 in it)
ProStocker273
MoPar N Jeep
You have to dent the pan. You have the correct center link. And need pics of the car just because..
Thanks for your input guys. Dinging the pan where it's rubbing sounds like a good idea to me, I'm glad I'm not the only one who's experienced this and thank God for this website. I didn't have wheels that cleared the new calipers so I put a set of 16X8 mustang wheels on the front to get me by until I buy new wheels/tires when it's painted. Problem is, the wheels also rub the upper control arms while turning, also preventing me from turning full lock. Looks like I'll need to put on a couple of 15-16" mustang (what I have access to) mini-spares to get me by until I put permanent wheels on it, then dent the pan, and I should hopefully be set. :thumbup:
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
You are correct, the 65 SB oil pan is different than later years. It has a slight depression for the steering arm. As mentioned, you can't use your old 65 pan on your 360 because the rear bearing block is bigger. It would fit a 318 or 340 SB though. I think your only choice is to ding the oil pan as you plan.
There is a spacer available for the rear oil pan seal to use a 273-340 pan on a 360.
Another potential option.
Another potential option.
ProStocker273
MoPar N Jeep
I don't think that would work?? 360 have larger radius on the pan and 273-340 is smaller... you could put a spacer on a 360 pan to use on other small blocks but not 360 with a spacer to use 273-340 pan
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Other way around. 360 pan is smaller. Beyond me why Ma just had to change that. I believe someone actually did make a spacer. I actually cut a chunk out of two pans and welded one into another "back when" I put the 340 into the FJ-40 Landcruiser, converted a 360 truck pan into a 340 rear sump pan and a 340 car pan into a 360 car pan
jhnycuda
Well-Known Member
I have a 360 in my '66 Barracuda and have the same dent in my stock depth Milodon pan, I have my engine out right now. I tapped the dent back out, and I plan to use a 1/4" thick washer/spacer to get the engine off the k-member some to get some clearance.
I had to make spacers too, but to allow clearance from the Dougs Headers to the Steering shaft, and torsion bars. I didn't go as big as 1/4 though. The headers had to be DEAD-ON to clear everything. :banghead:
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