plug recommendations?

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barbee6043

barbee 6043
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'76 smogger 318, 2 bbl. motor, with plenty of miles , I don't think ever apart. Doesn't really smoke, I guess 150,000 mi. Just a driver and fun car. Recommendations for plugs and gap??
 
Champions J14's? are the stock plug I believe. What's the factory gap for a 76 318? Just use what is recommended.
 
I prefer NGK’s myself.

I’d just use whatever the catalog said was correct for the application.
 
Champions J14's? are the stock plug I believe. What's the factory gap for a 76 318? Just use what is recommended.


J's are short reach. The 318 takes the 3/4 reach plug.

So....Id use the RC14YC champion and gap it at .045 as long as the plug wires, cap and rotor are in good shape.
 
or RN14YCs; non coppers but they don't last as long.
I have coppers in my 367HO. They've been in there since 1999,lol. They have quite a bit more than 100,000 MILES on them. The haven't been out since 2004 or 2005.
 
I got it running decent today after I changed the mech fuel pump.

I figure fresh plugs, cap, rotor, plugs and maybe the timing light!

Back in the old days a run down the road over 100 to "blew it out" was in order!!??? ll
 
J's are short reach. The 318 takes the 3/4 reach plug.

So....Id use the RC14YC champion and gap it at .045 as long as the plug wires, cap and rotor are in good shape.
There ya go. I shouldn't have answered in the middle of a restaurant.
 
or RN14YCs; non coppers but they don't last as long.
I have coppers in my 367HO. They've been in there since 1999,lol. They have quite a bit more than 100,000 MILES on them. The haven't been out since 2004 or 2005.


Yeah you can use the N series but it has the 13/16 hex. I just like the 5/8 hex better, but they are the same plug otherwise.
 
low compression motor- use the long reach 6 cyl amc/ jeep plugs
they were developed especially to burn clean
several different part numbers
both 3/4 and 5/8 hex available
these plugs help prevent fouling and missing
I use them in one of my 318 LA motors with electronic ignition and mag wire core wires
 
IMO stock mopars like Champions.


Everything likes Champions. When I get paid to do a tune up, I pick the plug.

There are two issues with Champions. Number one is guys running a different brand of plug and using a cross reference to pick a Champion. That's a bad idea. Cross reference charts are essentially a guessing game at best. Look in the catalog and pick the plug for your application. If you are looking for a racing plug, get on the phone with someone who knows the plug line.

The second issue is Champion has always used a softer center wire than other plug manufacturers. That means they don't last as long. 5k on a set of plugs and I dump them. Racing plugs get 20-30 passes and hit the can.

The reason for the softer center wire is still argued amongst electrical needs to this day and it has to do with how the flame actually starts. The softer core wire allows the flame to build easier. But it wears out quicker.

If you are a cheap screw and think plugs should last 50k then buy other than a Champion.
 
You hit this screw right on the head! lol . I am cheap but good info. My Darts are mostly street driven so I wasn't thinking about the racers out there.
 
"There are two issues with Champions. Number one is guys running a different brand of plug and using a cross reference to pick a Champion. That's a bad idea. Cross reference charts are essentially a guessing game at best. Look in the catalog and pick the plug for your application. If you are looking for a racing plug, get on the phone with someone who knows the plug line."

Ain't that the truth. I chose Autolite's for my newly rebuilt 273. My Champions converted to a colder heat range than I needed. I already went from 10.5/1 to 9.6/1 which should use a little warmer plug. I fought a rough/rich idle for a long time until I screwed in a set of warmer Champions and all was well.
 
5/8 champion for lower compression street 318
RFN14LY Stock number 82 or a RC12LYC which is a stock number 412.
 
Everything likes Champions. When I get paid to do a tune up, I pick the plug.

There are two issues with Champions. Number one is guys running a different brand of plug and using a cross reference to pick a Champion. That's a bad idea. Cross reference charts are essentially a guessing game at best. Look in the catalog and pick the plug for your application. If you are looking for a racing plug, get on the phone with someone who knows the plug line.

The second issue is Champion has always used a softer center wire than other plug manufacturers. That means they don't last as long. 5k on a set of plugs and I dump them. Racing plugs get 20-30 passes and hit the can.

The reason for the softer center wire is still argued amongst electrical needs to this day and it has to do with how the flame actually starts. The softer core wire allows the flame to build easier. But it wears out quicker.

If you are a cheap screw and think plugs should last 50k then buy other than a Champion.
I think there's two issues with listening to advice on the internet...
first has somebody may be very eloquent and sound exactly like they know what they're talkin about by the way they present themselves...
And two they could be as full of poop is a Christmas goose.... (As someone so eloquently put it)
 
Now my MSD says to Gap the plugs at .45 or bigger, but if I had a stock 318 with stock ignition I would probably be around .35. but I'm no expert so don't listen to me that's for sure... I would look at what the recommended Gap would be and go with it..
 
well said jpar
except in the early eighties when the engineers with their new high tec ignitions specified gaps that could not be sustained
Cad V8 6 4 for example was over .060 which started missing and fouling after a few thousand miles .045 worked lots of examples
compression decreases spark jumpability
for any given ignition
lower compression can run more gap
 
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