Polyester Primers

[67Dart440GT]

The shop I was at use to do all our quick jobs with 320 on the D/A then paint. Never had problems, Not that I would do a car I cared about that way.

Yup you are right. I actually always used 320 orbital on collision work and it works just fine, but for restoration work I would prefer to block sand.

 

[AdamR]

If you want a straight car, you never DA anything (bondo, primer, clear) nothing.

Ive used the DA for wet sanding the clear, It works good (fast) but your right, it wont be flat. When you look you can see the small waves in the finish.

 

[daves66valiant]

I like to use Epoxie first for the adhesion to bare steel, then while the epoxie is still in the recoat window (24hrs) spray the featherfill ( no sanding). I used a 1.8 tip and it sprayed great. Block with 150, then prime with 2K, then 320 dry, then 500 wet. guide coat between each step..

I'm with Tin. The featherfill sprayed great with a 1.8 cheapie primer gun. The first few blocking passes can be real gummy if you use greater than 180 I found.

Btw, I try to remove as much featherfill as possible. 3M Drycoat is your friend

Hey Tin do you use a sealer coat of epoxy (reduced 1:1:1) at the end before BC/CC? Barry at SPI suggested it for good chip resistance.

 

[1BadDodge71]

ok,one more question:Is a Gallon enough for the Duster?How many coats can I get out of the gallon?I know it mixes 4:1.Ive done this before with good results:Block dry with 180 or 220,spray guide coat,wet sand with 320-400 until the guide coat is gone.It takes awhile to sand out the 220 scratches,but I usually did it that way to avoid having to spray another coat.Seems like a shortcut ,but always worked great.I wouldnt do this on colors that show scratches easy though(like metallics)but since my Duster is going to be a solid color,I figured it wont hurt it.

 

[AdamR]

a gallon should be fine.

 

[moparpoor]

ok,one more question:Is a Gallon enough for the Duster?How many coats can I get out of the gallon?I know it mixes 4:1.Ive done this before with good results:Block dry with 180 or 220,spray guide coat,wet sand with 320-400 until the guide coat is gone.It takes awhile to sand out the 220 scratches,but I usually did it that way to avoid having to spray another coat.Seems like a shortcut ,but always worked great.I wouldnt do this on colors that show scratches easy though(like metallics)but since my Duster is going to be a solid color,I figured it wont hurt it.

Wet sanding poly primer is a big no no.It is way to porus and will cause issues down the road.Like blushing in the color,weird solvent pop issues,and delam.This will all show in the base and clear.I know people have done it,but the car sits for very long periods of time before top coating.Save yourself the risk and dry sand it.

 

[Louie70Dart]

How about an epoxy with chromate?

 

[1BadDodge71]

Thanks for all the input,guys.Well,I dont know if I want to use the polyester.I want a primer I can wet sand and then pressure wash the hell out of car afterwards,makes it much cleaner.I found a gallon of etch from a previous project I can use,so I may just use that and get me a good 2k primer.I found a site called Tamco that has a gallon of 2K primer plus activator online for $69.95 with free shipping,looks like a great deal.
http://tamcopaint.com/hpecqudryprk.html

 

[70Duster440]

More opinions (and you know what they say about those)... I would just skip the etch primer and coat your base metal with an epoxy. That will seal it against moisture and provide a good base to build upon. Then you can use a poly or urethane 2K and wet sand to your hearts content.