Pop pop on exhaust side

-
OP @Chadderbox70
The engine does not care how much or how little idle timing it has, so long as;
1) the T-slots are synced up and
2) the setting you choose does not cause a tip-in sag, and
3) the sunshell doesn't rattle too harshly when you put it into gear.
4) and the plugs stay clean.
The Idle-timing window will usually fall between 8 and 18 degrees. More Idle-timing just means more Idle-Power.
A high cylinder-pressure engine will make more power at idle so will fall to the low end, whereas a low-pressure engine may like to run towards the higher end.
Typically, it will fall between 12 to 14 degrees, to satisfy the T-slot synchronization.
Big cams with late-closing intakes idle at low cylinder pressure, and so like lots of idle-timing, to get the power up.
Short period cams with early closing intake valves, make lots of idle-pressure, and with too much Idle-timing, will make too much Idle-power, and will really smack the sunshell, unless you you limit the idle-timing or modify the Forward clutch.
The difference between the ICA(Intake Closing Angle) events, varys from about 55* with a really small performance cam to maybe 75* with a really big street cam. Typically we install cams with Ica's in the range of 58 to 68. That's a range of 10 degrees. And the idle-timing has a similar range of 8 to 18. So this is how easy it is;
just take 50 off your Ica spec, and that can be your Idle-timing starting point. If you intake closes at 68*, then it will like 18 degrees. If your intake valve closes at 58 degrees, it will like 8 degrees. This assumes it has a decent Scr, compatible with the cam that is installed . In your case, the 703 cam, in per the card, has an Ica of 60 degrees, so 60 less 50=10* is the starting point. At a true 10.5 Scr, this will be close.
Of course, once the Idle-timing is bugged out, all your other timing systems will need to be reworked, this is just part of HotRodding.

Here's a challenge;
set it up like I preach, and after you get it idling in it's happy place........... go back and reset the Idle-timing to 18*, leave it there, and I don't care how you set your carb, try to find another happy place of;
no tip-in sag,
smooth transition,
no popping or stalling on decel,
no clanging into gear, and above-all, where
the plugs stay clean........

BTW,
The plugs in my HotRod, were installed in 1999, and they have over 125,000 miles on them. I pulled them out in 2004, thinking to replace them, for an upcoming Test-N-Tune, but they looked so good, I just put them right back in. A few days later, at the track, these same old plugs, ripped off a 93 mph in the Eighth....... and those same plugs were still in there, until last year, when, I had the idea to sell the car, and gave it a tune-up. That was the first time I looked at them since back in 2004, and they looked just fine. I only swapped them out cuz, the buyer was coming for the car.
Sadly the schmuck was a no-show.
So in frustration, I did a few victory laps around town at up to 7200rpm. Everything seemed normal, lol.

Here's the deal;
this engine cranks close to 180/185 psi.
The Ica is 63*, and the Idle-timing is, get ready for this;
13*, plus/minus 1 degree.

I'm leaving now, do whatever seems good to you.
 
Last edited:
Excellent is that the 5/8 one ? Cause the big 13/16 ones are impossible for that driver side rear #7 between the headers


Hey I am making a video , off exactly what I have , what is happening and trying all of your ideas everyone I really appreciate the help!
 
Something not adding up here......
When I saw the vac gauge reading shows 22" in post #14, I thought the cam must be stock...or close to it; missed 703. Hence my earlier post based on 22"of vac. No way you can get 22" from a 703 cam. Faulty vac gauge?? Others I see using it are getting 14-15" at idle.
So I think Mattax has nailed it: too much T showing above the blades. Veeeery easy to check: if the idle mixture screws have little or no control over idle quality/rpm, there is too much T slot exposed at idle.
Now that I am aware of the cam in use, it will want a LOT more timing at idle for optimum idle quality & tip in response; probably 25-35*, which you can achieve by using man vac adv [ MVA ] to provide the extra timing. Read the threads on MVA on this forum. Getting extra timing at idle will also reduce t slot exposure because it makes the engine more efficient; therefore less fuel is reqd & t/blades can be closed more. So before messing with the carb, idle ign timing should be sorted so that the correct amount of bypass air can be added.
Unfortunately, you have bought one of those overpriced MSD dist that does NOT have an adjustable VA unit....& it will not accept an adj unit. Better off buying a cheap HEI with coil in cap & it comes with adj VA unit. I can buy them here for $100....& have used heaps of them.
See below..

img307.jpg
 
Something not adding up here......
When I saw the vac gauge reading shows 22" in post #14, I thought the cam must be stock...or close to it; missed 703. Hence my earlier post based on 22"of vac. No way you can get 22" from a 703 cam. Faulty vac gauge?? Others I see using it are getting 14-15" at idle.
So I think Mattax has nailed it: too much T showing above the blades. Veeeery easy to check: if the idle mixture screws have little or no control over idle quality/rpm, there is too much T slot exposed at idle.
Now that I am aware of the cam in use, it will want a LOT more timing at idle for optimum idle quality & tip in response; probably 25-35*, which you can achieve by using man vac adv [ MVA ] to provide the extra timing. Read the threads on MVA on this forum. Getting extra timing at idle will also reduce t slot exposure because it makes the engine more efficient; therefore less fuel is reqd & t/blades can be closed more. So before messing with the carb, idle ign timing should be sorted so that the correct amount of bypass air can be added.
Unfortunately, you have bought one of those overpriced MSD dist that does NOT have an adjustable VA unit....& it will not accept an adj unit. Better off buying a cheap HEI with coil in cap & it comes with adj VA unit. I can buy them here for $100....& have used heaps of them.
See below..

View attachment 1716218105
I think that his gauge is showing about 9 in of vacuum.
The outside numbers are cm vacuum.
 
If it hasn't been mentioned,
Might want to check the power valve.
If it's blown or has a high vacuum number like 10.5"
As far as I know power valves won't usually effect idle mixture.
But could come on too soon off idle.
If his idle vacuum is around 9"
I'd use a 4.5" power valve.
Just something pretty simple to do..
 
Not asking for more advice, my 6-pack stroker plugs look identical to the OP's. Nothing I have done changes anything, and my AFR's look good, but I know it is pig rich. The engine idles down, and runs well. Will give your comments here a try!
Thank you
 


here's a video showing what the car is doing
Details on the engine
answers to some of your questions, I haven't tried all of your suggestions yet, but quite a few

In this video I lean it out and try taking the timing right down to 5 degrees at about 600 rpm and even if I take the timing all the way up to 30 I still get the unburned fuel.

FYI I do want to switch plugs to eliminate that variable but they are a couple days away unless I try NGK 2238

as always thanks for your kind help and support
 
Are those new heads, guides ?
My audio isn't that good, to me it sounded like sticking valve, cuz I think I'm hearing a "snap".
May just be my speakers .
Stethoscope the valve covers if it is a snap.
Good luck
jmo
 
The heads where redone and they got new bronze valve guides installed. Brand new valves from Hughes engines. There's no slop there.
It could be poor audio from my cheesy camera. I can plug my stethoscope on and listen
 
I can get NGK 2238 in heat range 5.
It has the 5/8 socket for my headers.

So for the ease alone of not fighting the 13/16 between those pipes it's a good idea. My old 360 has NGK and it never had fouled plugs.

The champions everyone recommended the parts store wants me to order a case of 24 at a time from the US.
 
Get the NGK 5s.
Do the idle mixture screws change idle speed or quality...if at all?

You need a lot more timing at idle.....

Here is yet ANOTHER example of how important idle timing is when you increase cam duration/overlap. The cam you have is doing NOTHING to help the situation with all the extra exh duration. It will do little or nothing to improve performance, just make it much more difficult to dial in idle timing, carb idle & off idle carb performance. This is because that extra exh duration adds to the overlap, which is causing your problem.

img267.jpg
 
I remember the small blocks with air pump s and when the belt came off they would pop through the exhaust
 
Hi, just trying to fine tune a 360 with about 10.5 compression. Iron J heads 2.02 . Medium cam lunati 703.

I get a pop pop at random in the exhaust.

I have the timing set around 18 degrees intial.
It doesn't seem to matter where I advance or retard it too. I get a random pop pop normally I run around 12-15 initial and then another 18 or so all in. Mechanical billet msd distributor and 6a box. Msd blaster coil.

I wonder if it doesn't like my autolite 65 plugs if I should step down. ?

I lean out or enriched the carb and I still get the same problems

I have checked all my spark plug wires

I'm running out of ideas , my plugs look good still if hasn't run much or hit the street yet

Thanks
What does a vacuum gauge tell you?
 
Ok here's something we never talked about

My main body upgrade has primary jets 72 primary and 84 secondary

That's probably overkill and not helping. .I have a set of 67 and 76 I will put in.
 
On the jets, step down gradually. The change from 72 to 67 primary and 84 to 76 secondary is too much of a jump.
 
@ 3:20 in the video you claim the pop was present with the Eddy carb.
That kinda' has me leaning toward an engine issue and not a carb issue.

Maybe disconnect the x pipe and determine whether it pops out one side or both?
 
Last edited:
@ 3:20 in the video you claim the pop was present with the Eddy carb.
That kinda' has me leaning toward an engine issue and not a carb issue.
Thanks Dave. Excellent point. I did not watch the video through.
I would guess outside air getting drawn into the exhaust system.
Something not sealed would be a good investigation.
Are these later 360 heads with the air ports unter the exhaust ports? I would think you would hear them, although I missed that on my intial start up of my first 340 that had been built with 2.02 intake valves in later 360 heads.
 
Still think overly rich. Evidence was carboned up spark plug. Carbon is a good conductor of electricity. The carbon is shorting out/draining the spark. Unburned mixture goes into exh system & gets ignited, 'pop'.
 
-
Back
Top