Possible cam install

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OK so i got the heads and cam this weekend.

360 Heads are shaved .040 with stock valves and 340 springs. gasket matched intake side and opened up quite a bit on the exhaust side. i will be using the thin mopar performance gasket.

Cam is a comp cam. Duration in 268 ex 280
lift In .477 Ex .48 overlap 110 degrees
 
if this is your cam, then you cant use stock valve springs.
even if there 340 valve springs.340's did not have a high lift cam and you might get coil bind using stock springs.Use the spring comp cam recomends for your cam.Most motors that blow up when there brand new are because of the wrong valve springs being used.
EVERY VALVE SPRING IS RATED FOR SPRING PRESURE AND LIFT.
THE SPRING PRESURE INSURES A GOOD TIGHT VALVE FOR SEALING AND A RPM RANGE TO RUN AT PLUSE ,NO COIL BIND.
This is very important.

Also the valve guides might need to be cut ,if they hit the valve retainers.
Just double check for enough clearance.Call comp cams and make sure you have everything you need.Find out if you need a ajustible rocker arm from comp cams because the base circle on the came might be smaller then oem.
Just call com cams and find out before you do all this work.
Here is a note from comp.cams about the valve springs.
Product Details

Xtreme Energy Cams™ are designed to take advantage of the latest improvements in valve train components and the newest developments in camshaft lobe design. Their aggressive lobe design produces better throttle response and top end horsepower than other cams with the same duration. Xtreme Energy Cams™ also deliver increased engine vacuum.

Specifications: * Advertised duration: 268 in take/280 exhaust * Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 224 intake/230 exhaust * Gross valve lift: .477 in. intake/.480 in. exhaust * Lobe separation: 110 degrees * RPM range: 1600-5800 * Idle: Mild rough * Great for street machines largest cam for stock converter 273-318 works best with 2000 rpm stall

Recommended parts: * Lifters: CCA-822-16 * Valve springs: CCA-901-16 :cheers::cheers:(stock springs can not be used):cheers::cheers: * Retainers: CCA-744-16 * Valve locks: CCA-604-16 * Valve seals: CCA-504-16 * 1992 and up Dodge Magnum engines require the use of rocker arm kit CCA-1425KIT.

Not legal for sale or use on pollution controlled motor vehicles.

This Comp Cams Xtreme Energy camshaft is built to take advantage of the latest cam technology to provide maximum performance. By using an aggressive lobe profile this cam provides better throttle response and more top end horsepower than equivalent cams from other manufacturers while delivering increased engine vacuum.

GOOD LUCK.
 
What is the coil bind on a stock set of 340 springs. Comp cams is asking for 1.100. I'm not trying to argue the fact just would like to know the difference
 
What comp cams is referring to is the clearance needed for the spring to work.They are giving you the minimum clearance at full compression.
To use the old valve springs over, you have to check them for strenth first with a spring tester.
Valve springs wear out unevenly and have to be checked ,and then set up on the heads with valve spring shims.You need so much installed height for the correct spring presures.
BUY NEW SPRINGS AND THIS IS WHY!!!!!
New valve springs are tested for strenth and put into a matched set.
This keeps all the valves on the engine at a even amount of closed presure,creating a more even amount of power per cylinder.
Also you want to know your valves won't float at high rpm ,due to old valve springs that where ment for a differant cam.
Thats like running a old set of rings in a new motor cause they worked before.
Rings and valves are what seals the motor.
It could kill your power during higher rpm use and also kill your motor by floating a valve.
They are one of the cheapest parts to replace,so why take a chance.
The motor will make better power and be ok during high rpm use.
GOOD LUCK :-\"
 
i agree,new springs.i also dont think comp will warranty the cam unless you use their springs and lifters.the price of springs is small compared to the price of having to do it twice.
 
Everything is back on except the intake. When i go to bolt it on the intake is sitting to hi. I am using the mopar intake gasket set. Any ways is this because the heads have been shaved the .040. Is there a thinner intake gasket set that will help me with this problem???
 
we skipped past the main part! u cannot just change one lifter out or u will wipe that lobe. the lifter wears to the cam in a certain way and when u change to a different lifter or even just mess up where they go u wipe out the cam. id just do with an aftermarket cam.
 
zakimodo said:
Everything is back on except the intake. When i go to bolt it on the intake is sitting to hi. I am using the mopar intake gasket set. Any ways is this because the heads have been shaved the .040. Is there a thinner intake gasket set that will help me with this problem???
Click to expand...

When you shave the heads you have to take a small percentage off the intake as well in order to make a good fit. The proper amount is somewhere here on the website. I`ll see if I can find it.
 
All lifters were changed. And thanks for the info on the intake I had a feeling i needed to shave it down some, just didn't want to do something i didn't need to.
 
I found this

For every .010 taken off the head surface if you would have .0123 taken off the intake side of the head you wouldn't have to touch the intake.

now lets say i shave the intake.

.0123 x 4= .0492 off the intake

Is that .0246 off each side or .0492 off each side of the intake

Or my other option is making my own gasket out of really thin material.
 
zakimodo said:
I found this

For every .010 taken off the head surface if you would have .0123 taken off the intake side of the head you wouldn't have to touch the intake.

now lets say i shave the intake.

.0123 x 4= .0492 off the intake

Is that .0246 off each side or .0492 off each side of the intake

Or my other option is making my own gasket out of really thin material.
Click to expand...

I looked all over for that spec and couldn`t find a thing.

If you can shave the head on the intake side, that would be the way to go if you can. Then you could use a different intake if you wanted or continue to use your present intake on other motors without any fit issues. You can still remove your heads and have them cut without replacing head gaskets as long as the engine hasn`t been fired.

As far as shaving the head or intake, you`d have to take that much off each side.
 
when i responded before to this, i told you what needed to be done before you put it together so this wasn't a problem.
BUT,since you have the heads on the motor,just cut the intake on the sides and ALSO CUT THE FRONT AND REAR WHERE IT MATES TO THE BLOCK[ONLY IF IT'S TO TIGHT OR HITS]
You need to keep some space between the top of the motor and the intake
for the sealer to seal the motor.
TO CLOSE AND THERE WON'T BE ENOUGH SPACE FOR ANY SEALER.
when you measure KEEP IN MIND THE PORT ALIGHNMENT IS ALSO VERY IMPORTANT.
THIS IS NO BIG DEAL AND WHEN IT'S CUT RIGHT IT WILL BOLT RIGHT ON.

[[[[[ VERY IMPORTANT ]]]]]
TELL THE MACHINE SHOP WHAT THE CUT ON THE HEADS WAS SO THEY CAN CORRECT THE PROBLEM AND YOU ((DOUBLE CHECK)) THAT IT'S ALL CORRECT BEFORE THEY CUT THE INTAKE.
You said in the begining you where cutting the heads .015 ????
now you cut the heads way more,SO YOU WILL NEED A SHORTER PUSH ROD (OR)
SHIM THE ROCKERS AND CHECK TO SEE HOW MUCH PRE LOAD IS ON THE LIFTERS AND IF IT'S GOING TO BE ENOUGH.
TO MUCH PRE LOAD AND THE LIFTERS WILL NOT WORK CORRECTLY.
CALL COMP CAMS FOR THE CORRECT AMOUNT OF PRE LOAD FOR THERE LIFTERS.


:cya::cya:
 
Dont cut the intake!!!
Take the heads and get them cut on the intake side.
While they are there have them check the retainer to guide clearance your cam is really close to the lift required to interfere.
The 340 springs are ok they are good to .510 lift if the recommended installed height is set properly.
If using stamped rockers dont buy push rods cuz if you upgrade to roller rockers later you will have to buy pushrods again since they will need to be shorter and have a cup instead of ball
You can shim rocker shafts enough to correct the amount taken from the heads
But if you dont do either of those just make sure you turn the engine completly over by hand before using the starter
.045 is probably not enough to bottom out a lifter but better safe than sorry

and t67 is your motor 9.5 compresion with 318 or 360 heads
zakomodo said his motor was 9 something to 1 with 360 heads and .045 milled off them
I'm not sure this is correct
I had a 318 that I put 360 j 2.02 heads on and I milled .100 off them and I figured it to be 8.9:1
Now it seams that if you milled .45 off a 318 closed chamber head you would be at 9.4 or so compression
that is why I asked t67 what heads are on his motor
maybe someone could correct me
 
you can cut the intake if you want, but if your taking the heads off ,let the shop cut the intake side of the heads instead ,and set them up with new valve springs.The old valve springs would have to be load tested and then set up.
This will cost you more in shop time and they wont be as good as new springs.
The new springs only have to be set up at the correct installed height, to get the correct closed spring presure.
FOR EVERY .010 IN. MILLED OFF THE HEAD (OR BLOCK), YOU HAVE TO MILL THE INTAKE SIDE OF THE HEAD .0095 IN.

TO 340DART \\\\\
ON A 73 CC 360 HEAD ( OPEN CHAMBER )
EVERY .0048 IN. MILLED OFF REDUCES THE CHAMBER VOLUME BY 1 CC.
SO TO MAKE A 360 WITH 73 CC HEADS 9.5 TO 1 FROM 9.0 TO 1, YOU WOULD HAVE TO TAKE OFF .0228 THOUSANDTHS OF AN INCH.
ROUND IT OFF TO .029 IN.
I CUT MY HEADS .015 AND USED A .026 THIN HEAD GASKET.
FOR HEAD GASKETS IT'S ABOUT (.020 IN.) FOR .25 IN COMPRESSION.
MY HEAD GASKET IS .014 LESS THEN BEFORE SO
I HAVE AT LEAST 9.4 TO 1 BUT MORE LIKE 9.45 TO 1.
ZAKIMOTO WILL HAVE A LITTLE OVER 9.8 TO 1
I REALLY DONT KNOW WHAT HEAD HE HAS ,BUT IF IT'S A 73 CC HEAD THEN THATS A GOOD GUESS.
IN THE END IT'S HIS CAR ,AND HE NEEDS TO CHECK EVERYTHING OUT AND TELL US THE FACTS.
I'M NEW AT THIS HOLE GAME OF TRYING TO FIX A CAR OVER THE NET. :idea1:
 
Dont use the cork part of the intake gasket set.
These gaskets go at the front and rear of the intake.
Use rtv sealer instead.
It works alot better,especially in your situation.
 
Have the shop cut the top of the valve guides down and go to a smaller valve seal.
Now you wont have a problem with the guides hitting the retainers and in the future and you will be able to run this set of heads on a combination that has a bigger camshaft \\\\ higher lift.
USE THE PERFECT CIRCLE POSITIVE VALVE SEALS.
THEY ARE WHITE WITH A METAL BAND.
THE BAND SECURES THEM TOO THE VALVE GUIDE.
THE MACHINE SHOP WILL MAKE THE TOP OF THE GUIDE SMALLER SO THEY FIT.
good luck :thumrigh:
 
Car is running. I made my own thin intake gaskets to get everything to fit. No shaving required. Thanks for all the help. Now to fix that stubborn exhaust manifold gasket leak.
 
OUT OF WHAT??????????????:-s
keep an eye on the oil for a water leak \\\\\ GOOD LUCK!
 
T67Power the material is like a thick paper however it is designed to withstand fuel, high heat, etc. all the thing that an intake gasket might encounter. Some silicone was used around the coolant passages. What is sad is that an exhaust manifold gasket that was made out of the "proper material" leaks out of the box and it cost me 4 times the amount of my intake gasket. some times making you own stuff turn out to be the best. In my case only time will tell.
 
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