Power limits of stock 360 block and crank.

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Doosterfy

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I'm considering building a 360. I don't want a stroker, I want to stick with a stock 360 block and crank. All I want to know is what are the power and RPM limits of the stock 360 block and crank, both LA and Magnum.
 
They'll take what they take. The weak spots are the crank (factory is cast), and the mains. The factory crank can take a lot of abuse but it's only so good. If this is to be a serious deal (500+hp), I'd recommend adding a forged crank to it. In either case internally balance it well, run the lightest rod and pistons you can, and depending on your plans, possibly replace the #1-4 main caps with 2-bolt Program caps and studs. At that point you're pretty much done doing what you can. IMO if you need to do more - you really need a better block. Doing that will hold 600+ for a while. You could also add some hard blok depending on what you're doing. For a street car I don't like taking away cooling capacity.
 
First question. How much power do you want or how fast do you want to run?
Need that info first.
 
First question. How much power do you want or how fast do you want to run?
Need that info first.

I want to run as much power as the stock block and crank will take and that's it. Not looking to build a super high power engine. I'm pretty sure I can reach the limiting power levels without going to race heads. I'm figuring ported Eddy RPMs or possibly the new Indy T/A heads and around 11.5 or 12 to 1 and a solid flat or roller cam should be able to get me right up to that level naturally aspirated.
 
Im running a stock bottom end on my 360 with new pistons and ARP rod bolts. It has eddy heads and a pretty good sized solid roller cam. I should have low to mid 400s, Im not worried at all to use the engine for what it was build for.
 
Well, you're going to have people say that they've pushed 700 on a stock block with no problems, and others who will say they cracked a block at 450, so it's really a crapshoot. I'm over 500 on a stock block, and want to eventually put it on the bottle. If I crack the block, it will be a good excuse to get a better one, if not, even better.
 
So with some beefing we're talking about 600 and without the mods around 500. Thanks, that's what I figured.
 
If you have to worry about the limitations of a small block, maybe you should go big block.
 
If you have to worry about the limitations of a small block, maybe you should go big block.

I ave a 440 in the car now. It runs mid 11s@116 and is 100% streetable. Pump gas no power adders. You can see it on YouTube, my channel is Doosterfy. I'm going to be building more engines and using different transmissions and I want a stock stroke 360 in my engine collection. I always loved 360s.
 
I ave a 440 in the car now. It runs mid 11s@116 and is 100% streetable. Pump gas now power adders. You can see it on YouTube, my channel is Doosterfy. I'm going to be building more engines and using different transmissions and I want a stock stroke 360 in my engine collection. I always loved 360s.

If you love the 360 you'll love the 340!!
 
Ask the person who has broken one, and what he thinks it was turning.
 
Well, you're going to have people say that they've pushed 700 on a stock block with no problems, and others who will say they cracked a block at 450, so it's really a crapshoot. I'm over 500 on a stock block, and want to eventually put it on the bottle. If I crack the block, it will be a good excuse to get a better one, if not, even better.

No spray ever. Not me.
 
Honestly, given your head choices... Unless you plan to go with high quality full race porting and a race-type solid roller, and build it as a full race engine, and you can stay out of any detonation issues - you're not going to reach near the breaking point of the block with a good set of caps. You don't make 1.6 or 1.7hp per inch out of a stock stroke with a "Stage II"-type head and a roller cam with .550 lift.
 
:violent2:
Nope Iike 360s better than 340s.

Lol...



But really not this again. Do an actuAl search, whole thread about the 600hp limit. I have a friend going 124 in 1/4 with dart and planing more. Another person making 900wheel hp with stock block and crank turbo. Search.
 
Keep improving it until it blows up, then rebuild it just a little less than it was when it blew up.

Let us know what point that you blew it up so we can let the next guy who asks the question know....
 
Honestly, given your head choices... Unless you plan to go with high quality full race porting and a race-type solid roller, and build it as a full race engine, and you can stay out of any detonation issues - you're not going to reach near the breaking point of the block with a good set of caps. You don't make 1.6 or 1.7hp per inch out of a stock stroke with a "Stage II"-type head and a roller cam with .550 lift.
Good point as usual moper. I definately don't want race heads or a stroker crank. I'm thinking with the compression I'm talking it would be able to run on pump gas. Just a common sense engine that uses the stock block and crank to their fullest potential with out going crazy on anything. If the heads I'm talking about do not reach the limits, so be it. Also going to run a manual trans behind it, either an A-833 with a Gear Vendors overdrive or possibly a Passon A-855 5 speed overdrive. I'm figuring a combo like this should run low to mid 11s and be super fun to drive.
 
:violent2:

Lol...



But really not this again. Do an actuAl search, whole thread about the 600hp limit. I have a friend going 124 in 1/4 with dart and planing more. Another person making 900wheel hp with stock block and crank turbo. Search.

I think you're missing my point. I'm not arguing that the 360 is a better or more durable engine than a 340, I'm saying that I like 360s better. If 340 cores were cheap and easy to find then I would likely go that route. Also realize that with the heads I'm talking about using I probably will not exceed the power limits of the 360. I can get Magnum 360s for dirt and LA 360 for dirt plus a dime so that's another factor.
 
What's the issue with Eagle crankshafts?

Seems like there were quality issues with the cast cranks a few years ago. I have a forged Eagle crank and haven't had any issues. It did take a bit of heavy metal to get it balanced properly, though. Seems like the heavy metal doubled the price of the balancing.
 
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