Power to Manual Brakes - D150

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318willrun

318willrun

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1980 Dodge D150. I'm going to go to manual brakes. I bought a "universal" adjusting brake rod that should work. My question is, does anyone make the adapting plate to mount the master cylinder to the fire wall? Or am I going to have to make my own.

Thanks
318WR
 
would the adapter plate for an A-body work...offset for Hemi valve covers? or just the general 2 to 4 bolt adapter that I can picture but don't know where to find them.
Merry Christmas!
 
My first one, I made for my d150.
Second one ,I bought from Summit Racing.

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i have one i machined out of aluminum for my truck around here somewhere i am not using anymore. it worked well
 
abdywgn said:
would the adapter plate for an A-body work...offset for Hemi valve covers? or just the general 2 to 4 bolt adapter that I can picture but don't know where to find them.
Merry Christmas!
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I'm not sure about the Hemi adaptor
 
my pattern on the truck seems to be 3.5 x 3.5" on the 4 bolt pattern to the fire wall
 
The adapter plate on my '72 is about 4 1/4" by 3". I didn't install it, don't know where it came from.

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If I didn't have the piece of metal which I'm pretty sure I have I would go to the steelyard to their cutoff extra little piece bin and buy a piece of metal. Put it up on the firewall when it's empty and go from the inside and scribe the holes.. drill them out and be done...
My problem is I like fabrication and I don't have a lot of money...
 
I used the normal 4 bolt to 2 bolt adapter from Mancini on my 1977 D100, when going from power to manual,same adapter as I used on both my A bodies. I used a 1.0625" and the pedal is really hard, with very little travel. Adjust bore size to suit your preference for pedal feel..I think power equipped vehicles had a different pushrod bolt location in relation to the pivot.
 
318willrun said:
Did you find it yet ???? LOL
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As a matter of fact I just remembered where it was. It measures about 3 3/8 horizontally and 3 1/2 vertically on the bolt centers. just throwing a tape measure to it. nd the aluminum is about 1/2 thick. I still have the aluminum master cylinder with 15/16 bore also. I ran it for a short period of time when I had a 93' cab with stepside bed stroker big block. I had to ditch the power booster to clear the valve cover. I made this around the year 2000. i dont think you can buy them anywhere

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I would be inclined to try a power brake booster mounting bracket with a small bore master cylinder. The K and L manual master cylinder looks like a good fit, as it has a .83 inch bore diameter. The pedal ratio goes from 4:1 to 6:1.
 
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also on a dodge truck you can put the rear on top of the leafs to lower the rear. although i ran a 4 link. and run bell tech 2 inch lowering spindles in the front from a dakota. you just have to buy a tapered reamer and ream the tapered hole for the tie rod on the opposite side to fit a full size truck. i was rummaging through the junkyard one day and figured out that tapered tie rod hole is the only difference between dakotas and full size trucks spindles. they make drop spindles for dakotas but not full size trucks. and i also cut one coil to make it super low. killer stance. i am pretty well versed in trucks because i destroyed seven trucks for parts building one. lol

and sorry for the poor quality pictues above i took them in a dark garage. but it will clean up real nice with some scotchbrite and look like new again. its been gathering dust for 20- years
 
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el5dart said:
As a matter of fact I just remembered where it was. It measures about 3 3/8 horizontally and 3 1/2 vertically on the bolt centers. just throwing a tape measure to it. nd the aluminum is about 1/2 thick. I still have the aluminum master cylinder with 15/16 bore also. I ran it for a short period of time when I had a 93' cab with stepside bed stroker big block. I had to ditch the power booster to clear the valve cover. I made this around the year 2000. i dont think you can buy them anywhere

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Interesting in selling it ?
 
This is 100 times worse than buying prefabricated frame connectors that need to be welded in....
 
j par said:
If I didn't have the piece of metal which I'm pretty sure I have I would go to the steelyard to their cutoff extra little piece bin and buy a piece of metal. Put it up on the firewall when it's empty and go from the inside and scribe the holes.. drill them out and be done...
My problem is I like fabrication and I don't have a lot of money...
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First of all, I want aluminum. 2nd of all, if it's going to cost me money to buy the hardware, and hour of chasing around to find the material (where I live, could be 2 hours round trip), and another 2 hours to make it, plus my gas, you see where I'm going?? 3 - 5 hours total ... I don't like working for 6 bucks an hour by the time I pay for material and gas. Some times if you can buy for under 50 bucks and have it show up all ready to bolt and go, I'm way ahead.
 
318willrun said:
First of all, I want aluminum. 2nd of all, if it's going to cost me money to buy the hardware, and hour of chasing around to find the material (where I live, could be 2 hours round trip), and another 2 hours to make it, plus my gas, you see where I'm going?? 3 - 5 hours total ... I don't like working for 6 bucks an hour by the time I pay for material and gas. Some times if you can buy for under 50 bucks and have it show up all ready to bolt and go, I'm way ahead.
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How much per hour are you working for when you change an intake manifold?..
 
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